Hueco Tanks - Nov 8, 2010 - Day 4

by Christian R. (guest blogger)

I wake up to the stomping of Carine's running shoes on the pavement as she runs past my tent, intent on leaving footprints in the asphalt. The echo off the surrounding rock intensifies the noise, but at her pace, it quickly turns into the sound of distant machine gun fire. It's 6 o'clock and the climber hive is already awake and buzzing. I can hear Angie and Calvin giggling in the tent next to us. We tear down camp quickly in the bitter cold, ice still clinging to our tent poles as we disassemble our nomadic living quarters. We only have half a day left in boulder heaven and there's still sequences that need to be linked and cruxes that need to be solved.

The crew is now a well-oiled machine. We're ready to go by 8 o'clock and the psyche is high. The theme for the day is "Divide and Conquer". John, Jamie, and Angie head to the Laguna Corridor, where John and the Wicicala Cave (V5) have unfinished business. Meanwhile, Carine, Scott, Calvin, Angie, Yoli, and I head to the top of North Mountain to work on Mexican Chicken (V6), Lobster Claw (V5), and King Cobra (V6).

We arrive at Mexican Chicken first, knowing that the Chicken is going to get baked by the sun later in the day. My arms and elbows ache from the previous three days of climbing. Undeterred by the pain, I give it a try with no warm-up and flow through the V6 crux, followed by the V3 crux, and fall on the last hold of the V2 top out. Ack! My second and third attempts get progressively worse and I begin to doubt myself. Realizing that time is running out, I suggest we relocate to the New Meadow so Calvin can work the Lobster Claw.

Upon arriving at Lobster Claw, I suggest to Calvin that he work out the top moves first before going for the redpoint. He looks at me and I can see the fire in his eyes. There will be no scoping out the holds, not here, not now. This boulder problem is going down. He pulls on to the climb like a shiny demon. I swear I can almost see the orange flames through his corneas. He rages through the lower and mid sections and arrives at the crux top out, but is suddenly halted in his tracks. His muscles twitch, his brow wrinkles with rage, his body convulses on the rock, and then, like a large elk that has been shot through the heart, the animal crashes to the hard volcanic floor of the cave. He rises with a roar that echoes through the caverns, "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!"

Calvin on Lobster Claw - V5

I take a few steps back and try to think of something comforting to say, but I'm too scared to speak. Scott, unphased by the carnage exclaims, "Good go, man!" The beast's breathing is still heavy, but slowly he turns, takes a few steps, and sits down on the cold rock.

"I need Angie," Calvin says, staring at the Claw. "Angie knows the beta."

I watch as Calvin reworks his beta, trying to remember what Angie had showed him the day before. After ten minutes of trying the top out moves, he's ready. He's calm now. No more Mr. Hyde. Only Dr. Hwang remains. He's cool and collected now as he flows through the lower and mid sections. His beta is refined as he sticks the crux crimp and reaches to the last hold of the climb. He arrives at the top, calm and collected, a new man, the beast within him, subdued.

We head over to King Cobra where Scott is working out the tough compression moves of his burly project. Scott thrives on loud encouragement, so when he pulls off the ground on his next attempt I shout at him, "Quit being a little bitch and send this thing!" He muscles his way up the wide snake feature of the climb, fighting it every step of the way and throws for the good hold at the lip, but his knee bar slips out and he swings wildly toward me. A loud cuss escapes his lips as he heads back to the base of the climb.

As we wait for Scott to take another burn on King Cobra, I hear voices in the caves. It's John, Jamie, and Angie returning from the Laguna Corridor. Jamie informs us that John has crushed Wicicala Cave (V5) on his first go of the day! Fist bumps and congratulations ensue. Another triumphant send on our last half day at Hueco.

Now, with more than enough spotters present, I ask John if he'll give me a spot on the Mexican Chicken. I think I've rested long enough to give it an honest effort. We head back to the Fern Roof and place pads strategically under the crux of the problem. While I'm working all the moves in my head for the Chicken, John walks over to Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2) and sends it sans pads and sans spotters.

John on Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2)

John feels better now, having completed one of the most classic lines at Hueco and is ready to spot me. I know what has to be done. I pull on to the start holds and immediately begin moving, quickly, but deliberately. I enter the zone and before I know it, I'm at the top out. I switch my feet from the right to the left and casually reach up to the finish holds. Piece of cake! Well sort of... I still have another thirty-five feet of climbing to go to top out this super highball boulder problem, but the rest of the climb is more about reflecting on the first twenty feet of roof climbing.

Christian on Mexican Chicken - V6

By the time I make my way down from Mexican Chicken, it's time for us to start wrapping it up. Scotty was unable to send the Cobra this time, but it will definitely go down on our next trip. I have no doubt. We take one last group picture on the rocks of Hueco and head back down to the base of North Mountain. As we leave Hueco, we stare out our windows and smile at the rock that has been so good to us. And as the rocks fade into the distance, I'd like to think that we're all thinking the same thing... WE'll BE BACK!

Angie savoring the last few hours of our time in Hueco

Here is the ticklist from Day 4:

World Without Lawyers (V0) - YC and CD went to the Gymnasium. YC Onsight, Carine Flash

Wicicala Cave (V5) - John K first go that day

T-Bone Shuffle (V4) - Jaime and Angie tried again, no sends

Look at Me (V1) - Just behind Lobster Claw, Flake/Crack system. YC Onsight

Lobster Claw (V5) - CH

King Cobra (V6) - SS worked on, no send

Everybody Wins (V3) - YC 2nd, CH Flash, Jaime sent. Angie worked on it.

Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2) - John K

Pull the Pin (V1) - Carine

100 Proof Roof (V3) - Yoli worked on, no send

Mexican Chicken (V6) - CR

Dean's Trip (V5) - Calvin and CR worked on briefly, no send

See Spot Run (V6) - Calvin worked on briefly, no send

Hueco Tanks - Nov 7, 2010 - Day 3

by Christian R. (guest blogger)

I wake up in the morning and I raise my weary head.

I've got a sleeping bag for a blanket and a crash pad for my bed.

I'm not sure where we're going and only God knows where we've been.

I'm a devil here for fun in a nine climber posse, a candle in the wind...

We eat some delicious breakfast burritos prepared by Carine and head over to the Split Boulder for some morning highball shenanigans. There's a 3-star classic called Split Crack visible from the road that has somehow avoided the skull and crossbones designation in the guidebook, despite being close to thirty feet high. I eagerly jump on this enticing line, while deep down I secretly worry about my serious lack of crack climbing skills. Hand jam after hand jam, followed by stemming and more hand jams. My breathing quickens as I approach the boulder's crux. I look down at my lone crash pad, which now looks to be the size of a piece of toast and is way too far over to the right to be of any use. I search desperately for a jug or even a crimper, but there is nothing to help this lost boulderer. I spy a narrowing of the crack high above my head and shove my entire fist deep into the orifice of the problem. It's bomber! Who needs coffee when you're hanging off a fist jam with nothin' but twenty feet of air beneath your feet? After getting my breathing back to normal, I finish off the rest of the climb in style. Wow, what a line. Maybe there's some trad climbing in my future after all.

John, Scott, and Eric have already left us in search of the mysterious Wicicala Cave (V5), but Calvin, the girls, and I are happy as clams, climbing the numerous classic lines of the Split Boulder. Every time I look at Calvin, he's got this perma-grin on his face. The guy obviously is in heaven and can't get enough of the awesome bouldering that is so readily available here. I'm also in heaven, but for different reasons. I'm in heaven while watching Yoli send just about everything in sight. Gone is the nervousness that used to prevail on her face as a result of one too many trips to the ER stemming from bouldering falls gone bad. Here to stay is her warm smile followed by the look of determination as she crushes every boulder problem in her path.

After climbing almost every problem on the Split Boulder, we make our way North toward the Lunch Rocks area. The girls jump on the classic 3-star Orifice Affair (V1), while Calvin and I attempt to tackle Coffee Achiever (V5). Our attempts on Coffee Achiever are humbling and I leave the Lunch Rocks area with my tail between my legs. Calvin stays behind and makes an attempt on Orifice Affair in his approach shoes, but is quickly thwarted. The girls are able to cross Orifice Affair off their lists, Yoli on the 2^nd go, Jamie with the beta flash, and Carine with the redpoint.

Anxious to see the Wicicala Cave, I head South following the screams and shouts emanating from the distant boulders. Upon arriving, I find John topping out on Birth Rights (V3), while Scott and Eric spot from below. To my left is the Wicicala Cave. They've somehow managed to restrain themselves from climbing this stellar line, but that doesn't last long. Scott jumps on Wicicala with a twinkle in his eye and puts down one of the most impressive burns of the trip, almost sending Wicicala on his first try. After a short rest, Scott destroys Wicicala Cave (V5), leaving the rest of us to ponder what the hell just happened. After countless attempts, Calvin and I are finally able to send and John is so close he can practically lick the finishing holds with his tongue!

I head over to the Morgue and watch as Angie and Jamie both stick the huge crux move on T-Bone Shuffle (V4). Knowing they can do every move on the problem, they try as hard as they can to link the problem together, but T-Bone just won't give in.

Angie and Jaime working hard on "T-Bone Shuffle".

We pack up our stuff and drive over to the Pond Parking lot, where we get ready for the hardest hike of the trip. Our arduous journey will take us to one solitary boulder problem, the Ghetto Simulator. There are over 1700 boulder problems in Hueco Tanks and the Ghetto Simulator is arguably the best of the best.

Scotty on the hike out to Ghetto Simulator

The hike is difficult, but as we near the boulder, my feet become light and my mood is giddy. I race to the base of the boulder and slide on my shoes. I feel like a virgin as I caress the starting holds. “Be gentle,” I whisper to the climb as I pull off the ground. It is everything I remember. It is perfection on a boulder.

Scott climbs the Simulator next and remarks that he's just had an orgasm. Calvin pulls on to the start holds after Scott's send, unaware of the difficulties that lie near the end. He gets a little crossed up on the finishing crimps, but is still able to get the flash. Yoli comes so close to slaying the beast on her first try, but my less than stellar beta is her demise. She quickly figures out her own beta and sends on her second go. Yoli's trip is now complete.

Yoli and Carine on Ghetto Simulator - V2

As we head back up the hill towards the North Mountain Meadow, we are content, knowing in our hearts that we have done this place justice. Hueco gives a sigh of relief and the sun dips below the horizon yet again.

Here is the ticklist from Day 3:

Split Crack (V0) - CR Onsight, CH Flash

Banana Split (V0) - CH Onsight, Yoli Flash, CR Flash, Carine Flash, Angie Flash, Jaime Flash

7-10 Split (V0) - CR Onsight, YC Flash, CH Flash, Jaime Flash, Carine Flash, Angie Flash

Splitter Splatter (V1) - The climb up the arete to the right of 7-10 Split - CH Onsight, CR and Jaime Redpoint. Angie and Yoli worked on it.

Splitting Hairs (V0) - Goes up to the tree, just right of the down climb - CR Onsight, YC flash. No one else wanted to climb in the tree.

Coffee Achiever (V5) – CR and CH work on it, but no send.

Orifice Affair (V1) - Yoli 2nd, Jaime Flash. Angie and Carine worked on it, and Calvin tried it once with approach shoes, but no send.

Sculpture (V2) – Yoli works on it, but no send.

Wicicala Cave (V5) - Scott 2nd or 3rd go. CR and CH Redpoint. John and Yoli worked on it.

Birth Rights (V3) - John K, CR Flash.

Birth Lefts (V1) - YC Onsight, Jaime Flash, and Carine Redpoint. I think Scott and John sent it, not sure how many tries.

T-Bone Shuffle (V4) - Angie and Jamie get really close, but no sends.

Ghetto Simulator (V2) - CR Repeat, SS Repeat, CH Flash, and YC 2nd. Carine and Jaime worked on it.

Lobster Claw (V5) - CH works it and gets very close, but no send on Day 3.

King Cobra (V6) - Did SS work this a little on Day 3? Can't remember, no send.

Hueco Tanks Day 2

"Look at those [Yoli's] triceps." - Scott
"No, that's just where I get my allergy shots. It's always swollen." - Yoli
"Where can I get allergy shots that do that?" - Calvin

Day 2 found us wandering over by the Melon Patch to warmup before hitting T-Bone Shuffle, V4. Christian, as I understand it, has sent V0- to V10+ at HT, but has somehow skipped V4 in the process, and this was a temporary, yet important goal to cross off the list.

Melon Patch is another 4 star V0+. Claaaaaaaaasssic. Just look at the backdrop. Big props to everyone getting on the climb, and especially to Carine for styling this climb and keeping focus. It's a touch highball and has a very poor landing.

Christian showing us the way on Melon Patch

Jaime watching her man send Melon Patch

After working on some other warmups, we worked a few problems while waiting for a group to finish on T-Bone Shuffle. John and I sent Butterdish, V2 on the "Warmup Boulder", Scott stayed warm on a variation to the right while several ladies did Bitch Magnet, V0.

 Soon, it was time for the T-Bone. Christian, Scott, John and I all sent this problem in 1 or 2 goes, but the epic send goes to Yoli. T-Bone starts with an obvious jug and poor feet; you campus to big slots and immediately traverse to the left around an arete - all decent holds. After traversing about 8 feet, the crux is a sequential right heelhook at the waist, big move up right to a sloper jug.  Here's the beginning:

Angie starting T-Bone Shuffle, V4

Set your feet and do a slight deadpoint directly left to a sidepull crimp:

Angie going for the sidepull, T-Bone Shuffle

Now reset your feet and you have a choice.


Choice 1: you're 5 8" or taller and use a high left foot dropknee, hard lockoff right and pull straight up. Here's what I mean:

Jaime on T-Bone

 Choice 2: You're not 5 8" or taller and you set your left foot and do a dynamic move to the jug.

John doing the big move - Yes, I see the irony of the taller guy doing the big move and the shorter person trying the dropknee

.

Angie and Jaime both worked hard on this problem and were inches from success. Strong work! Some of my favorite moments were watching the excitement and nervousness from Yoli, Angie and Jaime - battling the fear of the fall initially (there's a very poor landing), focusing on the deadpoint crux, working beta, each nailing the crux, then attempting to put it all together. There were alternating shouts, dead quiet, some swearing and great climbing burns. Very inspiring!

 I think this was our highpoint of the day. Afterwards, we hiked back over to check out the Martini Cave, home to such infamous climbs like (D)Esperanza V14/15; Left/Right Martini and Baby Martini, V6. Mad props to Christian for almost sending this at least twice, with John and Scott nearly getting through the crux several times. BM has a bit of an unfortunate ending, where you slither onto a small boulder (which is greasy and slippery), but there's no other possible finish, so it's understandable. However, the roof climbing to get there is just incredible.

Scott working hard to send Baby Martini V6

I knew I wasn't going to send BM, but I had a good time working the moves and watching the guys refine beta. Christian got so close; that guy's got mad strength.

The consensus was that we weren't feeling sendage on BM, so what did we do? We thought a couple of V7's were in order: Classics like Babyface and Daily Dick Dose. The ladies worked this with us and Eric also smartly did some fun V0's and V1's (nice flash Eric!).

DDD reminds me a bit of Leatherface at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Both are V7's, and both are horizontal climbs on thin holds with very similar crimper cruxes.

Scott on the crux opening of DDD, V7

Scott got very close to hitting the massive jug - sooooo close! My attempts were abject failures, but I had fun. :) Scott, Christian and I also tried Babyface - now this is a classic looking climb! We'll be back; suffice it to say it wasn't the best climb to finish on at the end of a long day. What a great climb!

Later that evening:

"Do you guys have any vitamin I?" - Calvin. 

"No." - Carine and Jaime. A few minutes later..."What's vitamin I?"

Also later that evening (these are all verbatim quotes):
"Where's the strap on? The strap on works me so hard and gets all the knots out." - Jaime

You'll have to wait until Day 4 to see the strap on. Sorry.

Here's the Day 2 ticklist:
On the Coprolith boulder by Melon Patch it's The Sphincter (V0), Dingleberry Jones and the Lost Crusade (V0), Hard Wipe (V0-), The Hashmarker (V0-), and Feces of the Ages (V0).

Melon Patch (V0)

Bitch Magnet (V0) - YC Onsight, and all the girls +Eric and CH sent. 

T-Bone Shuffle (V4) - CR Flash, SS Flash, CH Flash, John K (2nd?), YC (Jaime and Angie worked on it)

Baby Martini (V6) - Nobody sent.

Cheapskate (V0+) - Carine

The French Route (V0+) - Carine

Daily Dick Dose (V7) - Nobody sent. (SS, CH, Yoli, Jaime worked on it)

Babyface (V7) - Nobody sent. (SS, CH, CR worked on it)

Aftershave (V0) - Carine Onsight, Eric Flash

The Used Blade (V0+) - CR Repeat, Jamie Flash

Hueco TAKE, TAKE, TAKE!!!!!

Take? Yeah, I'm a rope climber. I meant Hueco Tanks, of course. That was one of many funny quotes that echoed throughout HT last weekend. We had a glorious four days to explore, scramble, climb up and rejoice over our long awaited trip to Hueco Tanks, TX.

Climbers - John & Jaime Kreft, Scott, Eric, Yoli, Christian, Angie, Carine and Calvin
Weather - It's the desert. No clouds! 40's - 70's.

I'll be adding more pictures and entries as I get some more pictures from Yoli and other folks. Most of what I have is on FB, but stay tuned here.

Nov 4, 2010 - Pre-Day One
"How do you get so many free drink coupons?" - Scott
"You've gotta sleep with a looooootttta of people. It, and I, get easier each time." - Carine.

Traveling on Southwest was surprisingly comfortable, but of course tiresome. Here are some of us at the airport:

St. Louis East Terminal

"You want some more food Calvin? No? Calvin never turns down food." - Yoli

El Paso, if you don't know, is located directly across the border from Juarez. You've probably seen the reports of bullets whizzing by, innocent bystanders killed from drug wars and killing sprees. Yeah. I didn't really notice. We spent the night at the posh Homewood Suites, got up early and bounced into the Tanks.


 Nov 5, 2010 - Day One

We started the day on North Mountain, and headed to the registration station. I'd heard a lot about the difficult registration process, the hostility of the rangers and the limited climbing, so I was ready for almost anything. Turns out, it was a pretty easy process. You just have to be ready to comply with the rules, watch a video and be respectful of the local resources. Reasonable.

The Registration Station - Where You Pay Homage

Texas State Parks Pass - it's cheaper!

After getting registered, we hiked up to the Small Potatoes area and got to work. The pleasant surprise to me was the range, quality and sheer number of good V0's, V0+ and V1's. Many of the V0's were highball - around 25+ feet, and the height really added a prolonged sense of enjoyment.






 The day's ticklist (courtesy of Yoli & Christian thanks for maintaining this - all ratings are out of 4 stars):

Woman of Leisure (V1) - Almost everyone did this one as their first climb of the day, start sitting on far right side, traverse left and up to finish.  YC Onsight. Eric climbed it, not sure how many tries. 

Mashed Potato (V1) - Christian Flash, nobody else climbed this, hard for the grade.

Bawl and Chain (V0+) - Highball problem located at Small Potatoes area near top of chains, left of the diagonal crack Men In Chains.   CR Repeat, CH Flash, AC Flash, Jamie Flash, Carine Flash

Angie on Bawl & Chain V0+

 Men in Chains (V0) - Highball diagonal crack problem located at Small Potatoes.  CR Repeat, nobody else climbed this to my knowledge

And the Bucket of Parts (V2) - overhanging prow that you climbed near the entrance to the cave where Cast Iron is.  CH Flash.  John K Flash or second go. Scotty too, not sure if sent. 

 Cast Iron (V1) - Located deep in the cave near Men in Chains and 'And the Bucket of Parts'.  CR 2nd, CH Flash,  John K Flash

Christian on Cast Iron V1 highball (and slippery!)

 

Chive Sucker (V0) - YC onsight, CH did alternative sit start. Carine Flashed

100 Proof Roof (V3) - CR Flash, CH.

Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2) - YC, CH, Scotty Repeat. (Jaime, John, Angie all worked on it)

Pull the Pin (V1) - Climb located just to the right of Nobody Here Gets Out Alive.  YC 2nd, CH Flash, Jaime Flash

Lobster Claw (V5) - CH works it I think, but no send on Day 1.

Gumby Traverse (V1) - Near Lobster Claw, YC Onsight

Gumby Direct (V0) - Near Lobster Claw, YC Onsight

Beach Time (V0) - Near Lobster Claw, YC Onsight

The focus of the day was NoOne Here Gets Out Alive, V2. NoOne has a very polished and awkward start - although it's a highly rated problem, the beginning detracts from the overall climb. After you get off the ground, the rest of the problem is very good. Juggy roof climbing at it's best. Here's a quick movie of some of the ladies working the problem:

No One Here Gets Out Alive, V2 - Hueco Tanks, TX from Calvin Hwang on Vimeo.

While several of us worked NoOne, Christian, Scott and I worked Mexican Chicken, V6 and a shorter variation called 100 Proof Roof, V3. CR Flashed 100 Proof, and I got that after a few tries. Scott saved his efforts for Mexican Chicken - and made some good progress.

"Take, Take, Take!!!!!!" - Calvin, at the crux of Lobster Claw.

We were still eager to try new climbs, so we packed up and moved to a new area with some classic problems like Lobster Claw, V5, King Cobra, V6 and some interesting V0/1's. I worked Lobster Claw, a crazy featured climb with multiple kneebars. I made such good progress I thought I would get it second/third go, but that was not to be. I ended up finding the finish terribly difficult and wondered if it would fall. I couldn't use high-kneebar beta and Scott mentioned a thuggy move he pulled on a previous trip. Neither felt promising. Achtung!

The day was getting late, so part of the group split off into town to get dinner (burritos!!) while Christian, Yoli and I stayed to climb some more. Here's the list of what we found and did:

Momento (V0) - CR Onsight, CH Flash, YC Flash - Excellent climb, 3 stars.

Sign of the Cross (V3) - CH - this is the upper finish to Chblanke, V11, which Lynn Hill did on video. The upper part was tough, but super awesome.

Skimmer (V3) - CR Flash, CH Flash, YC 2nd

Skimmer, V3 - starts low left, big shoulder move right

The best climb of the day among many, many excellent climbs, was a rarely rated four star climb called Hershey's Symphony (V1). HS is to the left of more famous problems like Diaphanous Sea, V12 and Terremer, V15. I'm sure you've heard of those. I certainly gawked at those problems, pantomimed the Terremer crux and marveled at the sheer difficulty of the moves. The crux hold on Terremer is a razorblade. Almost incomprehensible how someone could hold that, let alone send.

Yoli on the incomparable Hershey's Symphony, V1

HS doesn't have the notoriety, nor the difficulty of its brethren, but I think it is just as engaging, beautiful and interesting as any climb in Hueco. HS starts at the base of the same boulder (on a different face of course) and features a mostly vertical, shallow crack which climbs angling left to the top of the boulder. It's highball - probably at least 30 feet tall, so you can't fall. Making it a bit spicier is another boulder right behind it that would make a fall even worse, but for all the supposed danger, the climbing is varied and stays fun right to the top. I truly enjoyed that climb. The breathlessness I felt at the top was only partly from the fear and focus I summoned while moving. I wish there were more climbs like that. Props to Yoli for immediately flashing it after. What a way to end our first day at Hueco!