by Christian R. (guest blogger)
After months of thunderstorms and tornados, Yoli and I began hearing predictions of a blue sky weekend in Arkansas. We had been pent up like a couple of caged animals, due to the horrible weather, and we were itching to get on some boulders. As the week progressed, a plan started to take shape, and we headed down to Arkansas on Thursday afternoon with plans to meet Topher on Friday morning.
We met Topher on Friday morning as planned. It turns out, Topher had been up since sunrise after being attacked by a ranch dog the night before. He was concerned about the possibility of rabies, so he had woken up with the sun to ask the owners if the dog had gotten its rabies shot. Lucky for him, it had.
Psyche was high to get climbing, so we loaded up our crash pads and hiked to the Idaho Boulders to start the day. The rocks were still a little damp, but the temps were good. We warmed up by doing a few laps on a fun jug haul called Quite Time (V1) and then headed over to War Bonnet (V5). This problem is amazing and receives 4 out of 4 well deserved stars in the guidebook. This was the first time Topher had tried War Bonnet and he was able to send it quickly. Yoli had tried it before, but was having trouble toward the top of the boulder. She was unable to reach past the bad, damp, vertical slot and was forced to come up with different beta. Slowly, but surely, her beta was unlocked, but by the time she had figured out a sequence that worked for her, she was unable to link all of the moves together. War Bonnet would have to wait.
We packed the pads and headed over to a boulder problem called Numerical Methods (V8). This 3 star climb starts from a sit on good underclings with a ginormous foot ledge and ascends an overhanging arete with big, powerful moves, to a slopey top out. I hadn't bouldered with Topher before and was pleasantly surprised to find his enthusiasm for solving cruxes was super high. We studied the problem and discussed possible beta and began taking turns, trying to climb this powerful arete. On my fourth go, everything came together and I found myself at the top of the boulder. Topher continued to make serious progress on the line and I have no doubt that he will send this problem on his next trip to HCR.
Having rested for a good 30 minutes or so, Yoli was ready to give War Bonnet another shot. When we arrived at the boulder, we noticed the climb was now in the sun, but this was actually a good thing because the bad vertical slot was now dry. We set up the pads as Yoli laced up her Talons. Yoli made the climb look effortless as she hit every hold perfectly and floated up the climb on her first try.
With Yoli having crushed her project, we headed to Razor's Edge (V5). This line goes up another overhanging arete. Razor's Edge has great movement on difficult holds, which climax at a small undercling, followed by a large move to a sloper at the top. I was able to send this on my first try, but I feel that this climb is solid for the grade. The problem is a little contrived, but the movement is so good that I think it's worth getting on.
Since we were in the area, we decided to head up to the Moondye boulder. This boulder has a few great problems situated on an overhanging face. I wanted to try Moondye Stand (V5) again. On my last trip out to HCR, I had failed miserably on this problem. The crux of the problem is a dyno off of bad holds to a great sloper at the lip. I love dynamic movement, but ironically I suck at dynos and I really wanted to send this problem. Topher was able to crush Moondye Stand inside of five minutes and he shared some really good beta that allowed me to send it as well. I was really impressed by Topher's ability to read boulder problems. This guy really knows his stuff.
After sending Moondye Stand we started working on Chuck Wagon (V4) and Kung Fu (V8). It turns out Chuck Wagon is a pretty unappealing boulder problem and all of our focus soon shifted to the much more interesting Kung Fu. Topher and I worked on Kung Fu with a vengeance. We tried hard to send it for about 30 minutes. On my final attempt, and under extreme body tension mid-crux, I felt pain in three separate areas of my body and I was forced to jump off the problem. Luckily everything was okay, but it was definitely a scary feeling.
After having a close call on Kung Fu, we headed to the less strenuous, yet uber technical Momento (V5). This right leaning arete has a cryptic sequence that Yoli, Topher, and I just couldn't figure out. We worked this climb for at least 30 minutes and although we were all getting about three-quarters of the way up, we were still missing the key to unlock the final move.
I messed around a little on High Five (V4) and Miho (V6) while Yoli sent Udaho (V3) with ease.
Hungry and tired, we headed back to camp to refuel with a very late lunch. After lunch, we headed to the North Forty boulders where we tried Orb Weaver (V7). This awesome line feels stout for the grade. After a handful of failed attempts, we wandered over to Bad Daze (V5), which was situated over three inches of wet goat poop. Falling was not an option and neither was sending, as the fear of falling in deep, wet, goat poop all but consumed us.
From there we headed to Chainsaw (V4), which Yoli flashed, while I struggled on the opening moves. Topher, re-energized by Yoli's flash, managed to flash Chainsaw as well. I ended up settling for the redpoint. As darkness began to fall around us, we packed up our pads and headed back to camp, exhausted, but still hungry for more.
Saturday was supposed to be wet, but it ended up only raining a few drops in the early morning hours. I had read in the guidebook about a boulder that was said to be "flat-out one of the best boulders in the state" and I wanted to check it out. Yoli and Topher were game, so we headed to the Undertow Boulder for some serious bouldering.
On the way to the Undertow Boulder, we warmed up by climbing three problems on the Sloping Joe Boulder. Upon arriving at the Undertow Boulder, my jaw dropped, and then proceeded to just about fall off. Here was an amazing boulder with an ultra steep... hell, horizontal roof, with awesome and interesting holds the whole way. It wasn't just the angle, this roof was long, with a variety of holds. The best line on the boulder, Hang Ten (V7), had a huge loaf start hold, dozens of finger pockets, a huge sloper rail, jug pockets, deep slots, and a monster finishing jug. I don't want to spoil the climb for anyone who might want to seek this thing out by giving specifics, but I will say this: Amazing, gymnastic roof climbing mixed with enough techiness to make an outstanding boulder problem.
Realizing what a great climb was in front of us, Topher and I began to session Hang Ten. Every hold on the roof was examined and discussed and every possible move we could think of was tried. We began to solve each section and after two hours, we began to link large sections together. After two and a half hours had gone by, we were getting to the last hold every time and falling off the top out. Finally, after three hours of sessioning, Topher and I were able to send Hang Ten. This boulder problem is the best that I have climbed at HCR and is one of my favorite boulder problems to date.
Following the epic monster session on Hang Ten, we headed back to the car for cold beer and a much needed lunch. After lunch, Yoli got on a rope and made two strong attempts on Mine, Mine, Mine (5.11d) and about twenty attempts on Fat Hand (5.12a) at the North Forty. Yoli was able to get through the difficult crux of Fat Hand after almost an hour of repeated attempts, but was unable to finish the route. She'll be back to get this one next time, as she is very close to sending it.
We ended the day with Topher's much anticipated “Buffalo Chicken Mac & Cheese”, which was very tasty, some turkey tetrazzini, and some ramen with eggs. Dessert consisted of Yoli's campfired bananas stuffed with melted chocolate and marshmallows.
By Sunday morning, everyone was starting to feel the fatigue, but that wasn't going to stop us from sending some more problems. We headed back to the Idaho boulders and climbed this overlooked gem called Quagmire (V2) that only gets 2 stars in the guidebook for some odd reason. That climb seriously should have 3 stars in my opinion. Quagmire has perfect crimps the whole way on a slightly overhanging face.
After Quagmire we got on The Crescent (V3), which turned out to be a really fun climb. Topher and I sent The Crescent and we all did a quick lap on Rainshadow (V0), each of us taking in the view of the forest from the top. In the last half hour before leaving, Topher and I sent Dirty Bitch (V3) and everyone made a few tired attempts on Even Dirtier (V5).
After everyone was in agreement that we had finally had our fill of boulders, we packed up our crash pads for the last time and headed back to our cars for the long drive home. As we said our goodbyes, we knew that more thunderstorms and tornados were in our future, but the memories from this blue sky weekend would always be with us.
A short video of CR and Topher on Numerical Methods and Moondye Stand at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, May 2011.
Music: Ronald Jenkees and Metallica
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