I must have Trad Climbing on my mind...

The Fear of Climbing from Sean Stewart on Vimeo.

Congratulations to Topher and The Phillion!!

Newly engaged! Attaway, Toph! (or about time!?)

Climbing My First 5.12a - Sophie Binder

Climbers - Soph, Soph, Soph, Soph & Soph.

Weather - Sunny and warm. A bit humid.

Well, my last post was prescient, it seems. We ended up at the Falls on Sunday, courtesy of the weather. Some of the walls were a bit wet, so we eyed Lovely Tower. The rest, as they say, is history...

I sent this email to some friends and I repeat it here with some glee:

Please join me in heartily congratulating Sophie "excuse me, but didn't she skip .11d" Binder for sending her first .12a, Hidden Treasure at the Lovely Tower. Soph took that shit down strong; she attacked the crux and slammed the door on that mofo in a couple tries and in a bit of heat and humidity.

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HT is a vertical crimper's paradise; you enjoy some moderate climbing for 2 bolts on decent holds, with a few thin reaches here and there. At the third bolt, crimping becomes required as you traverse about 5 feet to the right. An interesting but surprisingly positive mono with good feet lead you to your clipping stance, and you set up for the crux. Folks with some reach can high step and go straight to a thin but positive crimp high right.  Those without it must a) high step and use a horrible slopey-crimp, step to a marginal foot and stab or b) high step and deadpoint directly, knowing your right foot is coming off. I'm sure there are other ways to do it too.

It's hard to grade moves like this, but this climb was challenging for me. Took me several tries using beta A. Soph used beta B and it was a pleasure to watch. She hit the crimp, grimaced slightly, tightened her grip, placed her right foot and resumed climbing. You could have heard a pin drop. We were so excited to watch her climb and didn't want to over-excite her for the remaining 15 feet of climbing.

Congrats Sophalicious, aka Saucission #1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Climbing my first 5.1X or Xth grade (for you French graders)

Nice post from James Pearson on admitting wanting to hit the next grade. In his case, .14d or 9a (the "9th" grade). I dare say everyone succumbs to these thoughts from time to time, no matter how strenuously we argue otherwise. Perhaps that's why we climb so many shite lines? Perhaps I speak only for myself.

Anyways, we're back to the Falls tomorrow. Tony's damn close on Red Corvette, .13a and one-falling it almost every time. I've been making some surprising links on it, so it now feels more doable than not. Still a long ways away for me. Fun climbing.

Team Saucisson Goes Back to Hueco - Nov, 2011.

When Pigs Fly from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.