Team Saucisson

Group Climbing (Organizing?!#$%!)

2011-12-28T11:03:00.000-06:00

Happy Holidays Everyone!

Found this article from R&I humorous. It's about attempting the group organizing thing for climbing trips. Even just weekend trips can get clusterfu#@ed... and this article rang all too true. I figure all groups go through this passive-aggressive cycle where people just get tired of organizing climbing trips.

Can't we all just go climb? :P

P.S. - there've been trips to Hueco, the Red, So Ill, Red Rocks... let's see if we can get some posts.

The Season

2011-10-23T16:05:00.013-05:00

Yes Fall is here. The season all of us Midwest climbers, plagued by sizzling summers (and this last one was a scorcher) and frigid winters wait for with impatient chalked hands! Another reason to celebrate last week-end (Oct 15-16th) was the birthday of his majesty Captain Burke! Too many reasons not to caravan a crowd of willing climbers to the best local crag, Jackson Falls. Michael and Tony, with a bit more of days than the rest of us that week, went on Thursday to warm up the routes a bit, and pick a mighty good camping site for the coming tribe.
Some of us arrived Friday night. The weather being so magnificent, who would not want to enjoy one more night under the stars around the campfire in the company of great friends.
Happy birthday Burke. The stars were aligned, it was going to be a good one.
By the time we retired to our tents that nights, the site already had its share of colorful shelters.
Michael and Rex, Tony, Burke, Blair, Justin, Frances, Draco and I were already smiling thinking about a certain place called the Promised Land, the next morning destination.

Bound for the Promised Land we were.. Meg and John arriving late into the night, and then the early risers joined us for the day Angie, Calvin, Woody, Carine, Jaime and Topher. And promises we kept, to work or sent projects there or even climb new lines.

Angie had her eyes set on the mega classic Fashionably late, a beautiful 11a line which she sent in style, inspiring Meg to flash it with beautiful composure. Jaime moved on to Team Honda, an awe-inspiring 12a line with a bouldery overhung middle and a horizontal roof.

I have attempted that line a couple of time.There is nothing easy about it.Jaime worked it and made strong progress. In the meanwhile Calvin, with Topher, went back to an old “friend” Zambezi or, as we like to call it, Miso Soup, a powerful 12b line which he will get oh so close to send.I had promised Burke to do a Trad line or 2 with him for his birthday.
I had looked up a couple of lines in this area which had good rep. a 7 and a 9. This was back to leading out trad for the Captain after a bit of a scary fall a year or so ago. Chasing the demons away he did great making it up a not so clean 7 line with a bit of a cryptic route finding. Great job Burke! Inspiring. On my way there I had looked at the 9 line which is in the X-block area. This is one of these climbs that no matter the grade, inspired me. Burke let me lead it out. A great lay-back crack system which looked very protectable. Having not climbed trad in a couple of years, I needed that level of inspiration to get on it. And that climb made my day. Everything about it was great. It reminded me if needed be why I liked Trad so much. The mere creativity of it, the challenge, the attention to details, the precision. Burke who cleaned it after me, Woody who lead it out again, and Carine who did the final clean loved it as well. Then of course there was that nut that would not come out. The nut tool was…in Burke’s car so we had to find a way. Burke and I took turn hanging on a piece trying to work the rebellious metal head out. To no avail… I even tried to use a swiss army knife, and we decided it was not worth the risk. Hanging on a cam with very sharp and pointy object in my hand equals to very probable upcoming disaster. Then when everyone had left the area, Woody went with his Indiana Jones-size knife and in good Woody fashion got it out!
In the meantime Tony went back to find his balance again.
And he did indeed:Balance of Power, a 12c amazing line (very beautiful and intimidating to me) which he had sent a couple of years ago and repeated his feat in style. Rob, and Allan had joined us during the morning. They both crushed Team Honda, and Allan wined his way up the 12a on the corner of the X-Block. It was quite hilarious to hear/see him climb this line realizing quickly the awkwardness of it. Not a memorable experience for him I am sure, probably one for us in the peanut Gallery!
Back to camp, a fire good food, beer, cupcakes (thanks to Carine) and a cake with candles to blow out for our favorite Captain. I even had brought him some 1964 Armagnac in a small bottle on which his sipped late into the night.
Happy Birthday Burke! Your friends were happy to celebrate with you under the stars!
On Sunday, the rose on another beautiful day. My dog Draco who had been alert to every racoon or possum passing by the night before, did not peep that night. The long path to the Promised Land, involving a very uncomfortable railroad walk, had worn him down.

A few pots of coffee for the tribe, peanut butter/Nutella and slices of pear on a bagel for breakfast, and off we went, after a stretch session Frances style
. Spleef Peak/ Lovely Arete/ Snake Roof area would be our day base camp, and an obvious place for our furry friends to rest a bit
I kept telling Frances and Justin about a classic when it comes to slab climbing: Fine Nine. By far the hardest 9 at the Falls (if indeed it is a 9….) and a definite SLAB. This route actually scares some hard core climbers who climb way above that grade! While Justin, Frances, Meg and John went on to climb the Spleef peak lines to warm up, the rest of us (Michael, Blair, Tony, Burke and I) headed to the Lovely Arete. The day was a bit warmer, not the best conditions for that very fine nine. Nevertheless, Burke will grunt his way up the line with sheer determination. This is the kind of climb where one rely on feet to stick on nothing, trusty move after trusty stance, finding balance and accurate angles. Try to do this on a rock that does not have that very much needed friction and you face a whole new grade of climb. Ask Frances who “caught” herself beautifully as she was close to reaching the anchors and almost fell steadying herself out of pure balance. So cool to see. Blair worked on Lovely Arete (one fall from sending it I believe), Tony found himself a new project with Here come the Snakes, a 12c on the Snake’s Roof, which He’ll work down to one fall ( and will send the following Week-End!). I went to check out a line Tony kept telling me about: Umbrella Girl, 11d/12a. He and Michael had to work out the beginning for a while on Friday, before unlocking the sequences. This was going to be a challenge. This is the kind of sequence where it is all about these little details, a toe in a small divet, a flagged foot which will establish that balance you need for a milli-second in order to go through the next move. But ah when you found these, this is the essence of climbing, of the pure joy of learning, solving a puzzle. With some key suggestions from Tony, I found my own beta for the start, and made progress throughout the day, delighted of it. It was not about sending, not even finishing the route if it was not meant to be that day, but about finding out a few things. I would be back (and I did… the following WE, unlocking the route in 2 falls. I WILL be back for more!). Michael will hop on it a couple of times, having all the moves down and will have a “soft” send of it ( ask him what that is).
While we were working on these routes, a bit of a situation was developing nearby:a family, father, mother, girl and boy were about to climb a dihedral, a 10a trad line in the book.The father had set up a top rope which looked like a static line and was about to belay his son ( who looked about 12 and obviously was not comfortable climbing). Beside s the fact his dad had hooked up his son's harness in a very "personal" way, we kept looking out and everything about that "picture" was not right. A line set up on fairly hard climb, the son starting to climb off route way to the left from the anchor point line and yes a tree between the father and the son.... The law of physics were simple. If the son was to fall he would swing into the tree. It is a fine line to say or not to say something: embarrass a father in front of his family, telling him what he is doing is not safe, or... say nothing and observe to make sure something really bad does happen. We chose the latter and after talking at length about it later on swore we never will be silent again. The kid did fall and swing into the tree the rope wrapping around a couple of times. Imagine that.... Luckily the kid was not heard too badly. He could not really walk as he was in pain, but it looked OK. Arggghhh....
Interesting to know as I was relating this story to my brother who teaches climbing to kids in France, there is an actual rule in my country about this kind of situation: if a dangerous or potentially dangerous situation develops in a climbing area and more experience climbers notice it and do not say anything, they could be held responsible if something happens!!!!!!!
As Burke put it so well, one has to understand climbing has to be considered like something more than a casual family outing. It is a sport that can be extremely safe if one is willing to ask for help or advice if one is in doubt.

Lesson learned for us as well. Better to be yelled at by someone who considered we made him or her look bad in front of others, than being witnesses to an accident.

The only note a bit out tune for a Wonderful Week-end with wonderful friends.
Lovely Arete, Fine Nine, Here come the snakes...Umbrella girl, so many routes/projects for all of us! We'll be back soon. TIS THE SEASON!

Fall Disco Fever

2011-10-09T10:49:00.008-05:00

Sunday October 2nd: It was a beautiful Fall day at the Falls. No more sizzling heat, no more bugs. A shinning sun in a perfect blue sky and Tony and Calvin enduring a hard case of Disco fever... I'll let the images talk for themselves. But apparently it takes a bit of fashion style to send a a very stout 12c (yes you guessed it: "Disco Fever") at the Falls. Yes Tony did loose his "toupet" going for the first crux move as a passer-by looked bewildered!

Brief Updates - 24HHH and Jackson Falls

2011-09-30T21:12:00.000-05:00

Props to all our friends who climbed at the 24HHH comp last weekend!! I heard times were great, although this year I opted not to go. Each year the comp appears to grow bigger, flashier and better. More sponsors, more schwag. I guess my breaking point was knowing I'd have to pay $35 to volunteer. I did that the past 2 years, but with the comp now starting on Friday, and with precious few vacation days, I couldn't swallow the fee and the loss of time.

We're hoping to have a guest post by a couple of our climbers Jaime and Meg, who crushed their first time at 24HHH... 60 and 41 routes, respectively!!

A special Thank You to Sterling Rope for taking old ropes for recycling and giving Good Karma gift certificates towards the purchase of a new Sterling rope for each recycled cord. Thanks Jaime/Meg/Yusuf for taking those down for me!

Now, on to the climbing:

2 and 3 weekends ago, we headed down en masse to Jackson Falls: Jaime, John, Conor, Angie, Meg, Yoli, Christian, Frances, Justin, Colleen, Michael, Topher, Blair, Carine and Calvin.

Major kudos to Jaime, who has upped the ante and took her climbing to a new level. The Reckoning, .11d fell second go. The Farmer, .12a, went second go the next weekend. We're waiting to see what falls next!

Christian,Topher and I worked on Disco Fever, .12c, sometimes noted as the hardest .12c at the Falls. Not sure about that, but it's pretty effing tough, with a shutdown finger-strength dependent move at the 4th bolt. The name is apt: smearing, delicate climbing and dancing on your toes, interspersed with powerful moves off shallow two finger pockets and pinches. The final crux involves an interesting left heel-hook off a right handed bad pinch while rotating your left hand past perpendicular to a 2 o'clock-situated edge. A final throw gains you some required Jackson Falls bulges and finishing moves, but nothing too strenuous. We'll be back for more. Everything else is pretty doable, but the finger pocket is heinous. I've been hitting the finger board specifically for this move. I guess I should thank Wolfgang for inventing it.

In case you're wondering, I don't update nearly as frequently anymore because I've been disconnected from the internet for the last 8+ months (at home). It's liberating, but not conducive to blogging. It's good that we have multiple authors.

First RRG Trip of the Fall

2011-09-05T21:02:00.000-05:00

Climbers: Justin, Frances, Carine, Eric, Dave, Calvin and Angie

Laughter echoed along the cliff-line. It was raining: an intermittent, misting, drizzle, punctuated by bouts of heavy downfall. I felt content. Angie and I were waiting for our friends to finish up a last climb at Purgatory in the Red River Gorge. Our goal was spitting sunflower seed shells for distance (which I handily won) and hitting a small plant (during which I felt the sting of defeat). We'd spent the day climbing in almost pleasant weather. Almost pleasant, if you know the joy of climbing with sweat pouring out of every pore. Still, a welcome change from the day before.

I didn't know it at the time, but that was to be the last climb of our trip. The rain slackened enough as we tidied up to leave, but soon returned and steadily dripped its way through the entire gorge. I hopped behind the wheel and wove the car around a series of puddles and gashes that forms the steep entry road to the Southern Region.

We camped at Lago Linda's and had a great time. This time, with some new faces. Justin joined us from the gym at the last minute - he of the negative ape index when wearing shoes. Eric, who manages the downtown Upper Limits franchise and rebuilt his 70's era VW van engine. Frances, who loves yoga, spouts random TV commercial jingles and joined us this summer as another new climber-friend addition from South Carolina. And Asian Dave, (it's not racist when I say it), who boulders mostly, is uber-strong and shares beer with a smile. These are our newer friends, some a little newer than others, who filled the days with easy companionship and the evenings with laughter and fun.

Some random highlights of our trip included getting to try new climbs, watching Adam Taylor redpoint Lucifer .14c in the heat and meeting some fun peeps from Alabama and Milwaukee. I love big, slobering dogs who love to fetch things.

The weather prematurely sent us back west to St. Louis, where I type this. Our trip was rain-shortened, but the weather is now fantastic. The promise of fall is in the air. Walking outside today heightened my excitement to climb again, climb outside and to dream of new possibilities.

Hopefully we'll have many more stories to share soon.

Day One Crags: Muir Valley, Sunnyside and Great Arch:
Virgin Bolter Tag Team, .10b
Machete, .10b
Kokopeli's Dream, .9
Suppress the Rage, .12a (no send)
Some Humans Ain't Human, .10c
Dingo the Gringo, .10c
Dyn-O-Mite, .9-
Black Powder, 10a
Lip Service, .11c (no send)
Night Moves, .11b

Day Two Crags: Volunteer Wall, Left Field and Purgatory
Darwin Loves You, .9+
Unknown 2, .11b
Family Tradition, .10b
Autograph, .11a
Jet Lag, .9
Thru Space and Time, .10a
Special Boy, .11c (no send)
Gluttony, .12a (no send)
The Gimp, .10a

Calvin
P.S. I saw O'Connor today in the Loop. He's headed to Jackson tomorrow... expecting great things. :)

The new generation

2011-08-16T22:55:00.003-05:00

Sending super hero Connor-Man style! Our Team Saucisson Jaime and John's little guy.

Connor's First Ascent from Steven Xu on Vimeo.

And yes this is taking place at our new Saint Louis indoor playground, a beautiful huge new climbing gym: UPPER LIMITS WEST COUNTY (in Maryland Heights).
Check it out, it is SWEEEEEEEET!

http://www.upperlimits.com/west-county

It is going to be the perfect training ground for some great fall outdoor climbing.

The Enchanted Forest

2011-08-09T08:23:00.003-05:00

Yoli strikes again with a new video. Here are some members of our favorite Team in the beautiful Squamish.

The Enchanted Forest from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.

Mr. and Mrs. Aubuchon go to Smith

2011-05-29T13:21:00.003-05:00

Tara and I just made it home from a great two weeks in Oregon, and before I pack up and move to DC for a summer internship, I wanted to write and thank all of our amazing climbing friends in St. Louis. Everyone helped make our wedding night such a special experience. During the honeymoon, Tara told me, repeatedly, that hands down the happiest picture I took (besides with her, of course) was with a big group of climbers.

Climbing on your honeymoon is a good, and bad, idea. I couldn't believe how tired I was after the wedding weekend, and on Tuesday morning, the last thing I wanted to do was wake up at 3 am, fly to Portland, and try to go climbing. By the end of the trip though, Tara and I were climbing more confidently as a team (we did at least one multipitch a day) and enjoying the rhythm that is shade chasing and climbing at Smith. The best part of a climbing honeymoon, we agreed, is the metaphor that multipitching can be for a marriage. Teamwork. Trust. Communication. Struggle. And fun. We definitely lived the metaphor and finished our trip on Zion, a four pitch wonder that climbs up the Morning Glory Wall. It was a route at or near both of our limits, a route that we couldn't stop looking at all week long and wondering if we could climb it. The route follows the heavily chalked crack system to the left of Tara's shoulder, then moves up and right to the intersection of the three cracks and light rock. From there, a wonderful and exposed splitter crack tops out with expansive views of Smith Rock and the Crooked River. We had an amazing time on the route. After a long week, the climbing felt easy and light, and the now-ness inherent in any great climbing moment seemed to in all directions.

Once again, thanks to everyone for a host of great memories. We'll post a few more detailed climbing pictures soon, but it is safe to say, we would both support a Team Saucisson trip to test out the Smith crimps soon!

Blue Sky Weekend -May 2011

2011-05-12T07:36:00.000-05:00

by Christian R. (guest blogger)

After months of thunderstorms and tornados, Yoli and I began hearing predictions of a blue sky weekend in Arkansas. We had been pent up like a couple of caged animals, due to the horrible weather, and we were itching to get on some boulders. As the week progressed, a plan started to take shape, and we headed down to Arkansas on Thursday afternoon with plans to meet Topher on Friday morning.

We met Topher on Friday morning as planned. It turns out, Topher had been up since sunrise after being attacked by a ranch dog the night before. He was concerned about the possibility of rabies, so he had woken up with the sun to ask the owners if the dog had gotten its rabies shot. Lucky for him, it had.

Psyche was high to get climbing, so we loaded up our crash pads and hiked to the Idaho Boulders to start the day. The rocks were still a little damp, but the temps were good. We warmed up by doing a few laps on a fun jug haul called Quite Time (V1) and then headed over to War Bonnet (V5). This problem is amazing and receives 4 out of 4 well deserved stars in the guidebook. This was the first time Topher had tried War Bonnet and he was able to send it quickly. Yoli had tried it before, but was having trouble toward the top of the boulder. She was unable to reach past the bad, damp, vertical slot and was forced to come up with different beta. Slowly, but surely, her beta was unlocked, but by the time she had figured out a sequence that worked for her, she was unable to link all of the moves together. War Bonnet would have to wait.

We packed the pads and headed over to a boulder problem called Numerical Methods (V8). This 3 star climb starts from a sit on good underclings with a ginormous foot ledge and ascends an overhanging arete with big, powerful moves, to a slopey top out. I hadn't bouldered with Topher before and was pleasantly surprised to find his enthusiasm for solving cruxes was super high. We studied the problem and discussed possible beta and began taking turns, trying to climb this powerful arete. On my fourth go, everything came together and I found myself at the top of the boulder. Topher continued to make serious progress on the line and I have no doubt that he will send this problem on his next trip to HCR.

Having rested for a good 30 minutes or so, Yoli was ready to give War Bonnet another shot. When we arrived at the boulder, we noticed the climb was now in the sun, but this was actually a good thing because the bad vertical slot was now dry. We set up the pads as Yoli laced up her Talons. Yoli made the climb look effortless as she hit every hold perfectly and floated up the climb on her first try.

With Yoli having crushed her project, we headed to Razor's Edge (V5). This line goes up another overhanging arete. Razor's Edge has great movement on difficult holds, which climax at a small undercling, followed by a large move to a sloper at the top. I was able to send this on my first try, but I feel that this climb is solid for the grade. The problem is a little contrived, but the movement is so good that I think it's worth getting on.

Since we were in the area, we decided to head up to the Moondye boulder. This boulder has a few great problems situated on an overhanging face. I wanted to try Moondye Stand (V5) again. On my last trip out to HCR, I had failed miserably on this problem. The crux of the problem is a dyno off of bad holds to a great sloper at the lip. I love dynamic movement, but ironically I suck at dynos and I really wanted to send this problem. Topher was able to crush Moondye Stand inside of five minutes and he shared some really good beta that allowed me to send it as well. I was really impressed by Topher's ability to read boulder problems. This guy really knows his stuff.

After sending Moondye Stand we started working on Chuck Wagon (V4) and Kung Fu (V8). It turns out Chuck Wagon is a pretty unappealing boulder problem and all of our focus soon shifted to the much more interesting Kung Fu. Topher and I worked on Kung Fu with a vengeance. We tried hard to send it for about 30 minutes. On my final attempt, and under extreme body tension mid-crux, I felt pain in three separate areas of my body and I was forced to jump off the problem. Luckily everything was okay, but it was definitely a scary feeling.

After having a close call on Kung Fu, we headed to the less strenuous, yet uber technical Momento (V5). This right leaning arete has a cryptic sequence that Yoli, Topher, and I just couldn't figure out. We worked this climb for at least 30 minutes and although we were all getting about three-quarters of the way up, we were still missing the key to unlock the final move.

I messed around a little on High Five (V4) and Miho (V6) while Yoli sent Udaho (V3) with ease.

Hungry and tired, we headed back to camp to refuel with a very late lunch. After lunch, we headed to the North Forty boulders where we tried Orb Weaver (V7). This awesome line feels stout for the grade. After a handful of failed attempts, we wandered over to Bad Daze (V5), which was situated over three inches of wet goat poop. Falling was not an option and neither was sending, as the fear of falling in deep, wet, goat poop all but consumed us.

From there we headed to Chainsaw (V4), which Yoli flashed, while I struggled on the opening moves. Topher, re-energized by Yoli's flash, managed to flash Chainsaw as well. I ended up settling for the redpoint. As darkness began to fall around us, we packed up our pads and headed back to camp, exhausted, but still hungry for more.

Saturday was supposed to be wet, but it ended up only raining a few drops in the early morning hours. I had read in the guidebook about a boulder that was said to be "flat-out one of the best boulders in the state" and I wanted to check it out. Yoli and Topher were game, so we headed to the Undertow Boulder for some serious bouldering.

On the way to the Undertow Boulder, we warmed up by climbing three problems on the Sloping Joe Boulder. Upon arriving at the Undertow Boulder, my jaw dropped, and then proceeded to just about fall off. Here was an amazing boulder with an ultra steep... hell, horizontal roof, with awesome and interesting holds the whole way. It wasn't just the angle, this roof was long, with a variety of holds. The best line on the boulder, Hang Ten (V7), had a huge loaf start hold, dozens of finger pockets, a huge sloper rail, jug pockets, deep slots, and a monster finishing jug. I don't want to spoil the climb for anyone who might want to seek this thing out by giving specifics, but I will say this: Amazing, gymnastic roof climbing mixed with enough techiness to make an outstanding boulder problem.

Realizing what a great climb was in front of us, Topher and I began to session Hang Ten. Every hold on the roof was examined and discussed and every possible move we could think of was tried. We began to solve each section and after two hours, we began to link large sections together. After two and a half hours had gone by, we were getting to the last hold every time and falling off the top out. Finally, after three hours of sessioning, Topher and I were able to send Hang Ten. This boulder problem is the best that I have climbed at HCR and is one of my favorite boulder problems to date.

Following the epic monster session on Hang Ten, we headed back to the car for cold beer and a much needed lunch. After lunch, Yoli got on a rope and made two strong attempts on Mine, Mine, Mine (5.11d) and about twenty attempts on Fat Hand (5.12a) at the North Forty. Yoli was able to get through the difficult crux of Fat Hand after almost an hour of repeated attempts, but was unable to finish the route. She'll be back to get this one next time, as she is very close to sending it.

We ended the day with Topher's much anticipated “Buffalo Chicken Mac & Cheese”, which was very tasty, some turkey tetrazzini, and some ramen with eggs. Dessert consisted of Yoli's campfired bananas stuffed with melted chocolate and marshmallows.

By Sunday morning, everyone was starting to feel the fatigue, but that wasn't going to stop us from sending some more problems. We headed back to the Idaho boulders and climbed this overlooked gem called Quagmire (V2) that only gets 2 stars in the guidebook for some odd reason. That climb seriously should have 3 stars in my opinion. Quagmire has perfect crimps the whole way on a slightly overhanging face.

After Quagmire we got on The Crescent (V3), which turned out to be a really fun climb. Topher and I sent The Crescent and we all did a quick lap on Rainshadow (V0), each of us taking in the view of the forest from the top. In the last half hour before leaving, Topher and I sent Dirty Bitch (V3) and everyone made a few tired attempts on Even Dirtier (V5).

After everyone was in agreement that we had finally had our fill of boulders, we packed up our crash pads for the last time and headed back to our cars for the long drive home. As we said our goodbyes, we knew that more thunderstorms and tornados were in our future, but the memories from this blue sky weekend would always be with us.

A short video of CR and Topher on Numerical Methods and Moondye Stand at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, May 2011.

Music: Ronald Jenkees and Metallica

TRY HARD ONCE

2011-05-03T12:26:00.003-05:00

Red Rock 2011. Who needs more words. Yoli strikes again. Good memories. Enjoy!

Try Hard Once from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.

RED ROCKS - APRIL 2011

2011-04-09T20:44:00.012-05:00

A lot of people have a certain image in mind when one talks about Vegas, The sin city, the gambling, the shows... the slot machines...the glitter. We think more of Rock. A rock so red, so worked by centuries of erosion, a rock of art.
We are the cliff dancers. At least that is what a sign a the second pullout trail head, in the Red Rocks park, calls us! A strange breed, who, god forbid, would rather play on rock than at a casino table!
We came from the Midwest, some came from the West, some from the Mountains. Team Saucisson and friends!
From Saint Louis:
Yoli, Christian, Michael, Emily, Braden, , Meghan, Sophie, and later on Yusuf, John and Nathalie (from Toronto)
From Colorado:
Tim
From California:
Oky, Brian, Michelle
And then a larger posse from CA who we'll sporadically see during the 5 days. Glenn, Sarah, Mike, .....

DAY 1
Second Pull-out. Black Corridor and Sweet Pain walls.
The rock glows against a cloudless sky. It is going to be warm says Yoli. Oh I'll take the warmth. The Saint Louis winter has dragged on a bit too long, and if that snow storm we had had a few days before was pretty indeed, I was definitely ready to take off a layer or two!
The black corridor is like a gym tell me Christian and Yoli. And they are right. an incredible tight canyon with an amazing amount of routes. It is a good place till it's not! When it gets crowded, yes it is then hard to believe you are in the desert! No more peace. So we'll end up warming up on a series of 10s and a 9 (Burros don't gamble 10c, Nightmare on Crude street, 10d) and head for the next crag, Sweet Pain.
That is a bit of rock I had heard about a few times before the trip. I was already excited about some lines I had never seen.
A beautiful 11a Glitter Gulch, wet my appetite and then we'll all take turn on The Gambler and overhung sweet 11b. A great route Yoli said not to be pumpy. humm we must have a very different definition of the word! :)
Then to the left is Sweet Pain (left on the photo, right, The Gambler), a beautiful angling and steep 11d Yoli had told me so much about. One of her projects. Christian flashed it putting the draws (a mere warm up for him!). I looked at the route and could not help but being a bit intimidated. But since I had hopped on my first line, I was feeling really calm and centered, a good state of mind. A first go pretty much bolt to bolt but, I would be back. Yoli would fall after the crux. so close. Yes we had some unfinished business here. A good first day for everyone. Feeling the rock, breathing in the desert air.

A stop at the legendary IN AND OUT on the way back to the hotel. And then we are, a bunch of very dirty and probably smelly climbers, walking through the ground floor casino of our hotel ( but of course!), meeting the very sad glances of people, cigarette hanging on the corner of their lips, desperately tapping on the buttons of the slot machines.
Argghhh why would you spend your day in such a place? smoke, no window, psychedelic carpet, and the endless ringing of the machine. Insane. This city is insane.

2010-12-05T09:55:00.002-06:00

Hueco Trip 2010 from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.

Team Saucisson sets out on yet another adventure! We left the cool and crisp Mid-West and landed in the warm and sunny town of El Paso, TX for a four day bouldering trip to Hueco Tanks. Scott and Christian were the only ones to have previously experienced the bouldering in Hueco. The rest of us were astounded to see what Hueco had to offer. The boulders, some the size of school buses, others the size of skyscrapers, are pocked with millions of huecos, created during a magma eruption 35 million years ago. This creation offered us boundless classic lines - highballs, caves, roofs...you name it! We were like kids in a candy store for four days, savoring in the beauty that surrounded us every chance we got.

Credit to Quentin Tarantino film "Kill Bill" and the movie soundtrack for the inspiration in the creation of this parody.

2010-11-13T11:09:00.024-06:00

Hueco Tanks - Nov 8, 2010 - Day 4

by Christian R. (guest blogger)

I wake up to the stomping of Carine's running shoes on the pavement as she runs past my tent, intent on leaving footprints in the asphalt. The echo off the surrounding rock intensifies the noise, but at her pace, it quickly turns into the sound of distant machine gun fire. It's 6 o'clock and the climber hive is already awake and buzzing. I can hear Angie and Calvin giggling in the tent next to us. We tear down camp quickly in the bitter cold, ice still clinging to our tent poles as we disassemble our nomadic living quarters. We only have half a day left in boulder heaven and there's still sequences that need to be linked and cruxes that need to be solved.

The crew is now a well-oiled machine. We're ready to go by 8 o'clock and the psyche is high. The theme for the day is "Divide and Conquer". John, Jamie, and Angie head to the Laguna Corridor, where John and the Wicicala Cave (V5) have unfinished business. Meanwhile, Carine, Scott, Calvin, Angie, Yoli, and I head to the top of North Mountain to work on Mexican Chicken (V6), Lobster Claw (V5), and King Cobra (V6).

We arrive at Mexican Chicken first, knowing that the Chicken is going to get baked by the sun later in the day. My arms and elbows ache from the previous three days of climbing. Undeterred by the pain, I give it a try with no warm-up and flow through the V6 crux, followed by the V3 crux, and fall on the last hold of the V2 top out. Ack! My second and third attempts get progressively worse and I begin to doubt myself. Realizing that time is running out, I suggest we relocate to the New Meadow so Calvin can work the Lobster Claw.

Upon arriving at Lobster Claw, I suggest to Calvin that he work out the top moves first before going for the redpoint. He looks at me and I can see the fire in his eyes. There will be no scoping out the holds, not here, not now. This boulder problem is going down. He pulls on to the climb like a shiny demon. I swear I can almost see the orange flames through his corneas. He rages through the lower and mid sections and arrives at the crux top out, but is suddenly halted in his tracks. His muscles twitch, his brow wrinkles with rage, his body convulses on the rock, and then, like a large elk that has been shot through the heart, the animal crashes to the hard volcanic floor of the cave. He rises with a roar that echoes through the caverns, "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!"

Calvin on Lobster Claw - V5

I take a few steps back and try to think of something comforting to say, but I'm too scared to speak. Scott, unphased by the carnage exclaims, "Good go, man!" The beast's breathing is still heavy, but slowly he turns, takes a few steps, and sits down on the cold rock.

"I need Angie," Calvin says, staring at the Claw. "Angie knows the beta."

I watch as Calvin reworks his beta, trying to remember what Angie had showed him the day before. After ten minutes of trying the top out moves, he's ready. He's calm now. No more Mr. Hyde. Only Dr. Hwang remains. He's cool and collected now as he flows through the lower and mid sections. His beta is refined as he sticks the crux crimp and reaches to the last hold of the climb. He arrives at the top, calm and collected, a new man, the beast within him, subdued.

We head over to King Cobra where Scott is working out the tough compression moves of his burly project. Scott thrives on loud encouragement, so when he pulls off the ground on his next attempt I shout at him, "Quit being a little bitch and send this thing!" He muscles his way up the wide snake feature of the climb, fighting it every step of the way and throws for the good hold at the lip, but his knee bar slips out and he swings wildly toward me. A loud cuss escapes his lips as he heads back to the base of the climb.

As we wait for Scott to take another burn on King Cobra, I hear voices in the caves. It's John, Jamie, and Angie returning from the Laguna Corridor. Jamie informs us that John has crushed Wicicala Cave (V5) on his first go of the day! Fist bumps and congratulations ensue. Another triumphant send on our last half day at Hueco.

Now, with more than enough spotters present, I ask John if he'll give me a spot on the Mexican Chicken. I think I've rested long enough to give it an honest effort. We head back to the Fern Roof and place pads strategically under the crux of the problem. While I'm working all the moves in my head for the Chicken, John walks over to Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2) and sends it sans pads and sans spotters.

John on Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2)

John feels better now, having completed one of the most classic lines at Hueco and is ready to spot me. I know what has to be done. I pull on to the start holds and immediately begin moving, quickly, but deliberately. I enter the zone and before I know it, I'm at the top out. I switch my feet from the right to the left and casually reach up to the finish holds. Piece of cake! Well sort of... I still have another thirty-five feet of climbing to go to top out this super highball boulder problem, but the rest of the climb is more about reflecting on the first twenty feet of roof climbing.

Christian on Mexican Chicken - V6

By the time I make my way down from Mexican Chicken, it's time for us to start wrapping it up. Scotty was unable to send the Cobra this time, but it will definitely go down on our next trip. I have no doubt. We take one last group picture on the rocks of Hueco and head back down to the base of North Mountain. As we leave Hueco, we stare out our windows and smile at the rock that has been so good to us. And as the rocks fade into the distance, I'd like to think that we're all thinking the same thing... WE'll BE BACK!

Angie savoring the last few hours of our time in Hueco

Here is the ticklist from Day 4:

World Without Lawyers (V0) - YC and CD went to the Gymnasium. YC Onsight, Carine Flash

Wicicala Cave (V5) - John K first go that day

T-Bone Shuffle (V4) - Jaime and Angie tried again, no sends

Look at Me (V1) - Just behind Lobster Claw, Flake/Crack system. YC Onsight

Lobster Claw (V5) - CH

King Cobra (V6) - SS worked on, no send

Everybody Wins (V3) - YC 2nd, CH Flash, Jaime sent. Angie worked on it.

Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2) - John K

Pull the Pin (V1) - Carine

100 Proof Roof (V3) - Yoli worked on, no send

Mexican Chicken (V6) - CR

Dean's Trip (V5) - Calvin and CR worked on briefly, no send

See Spot Run (V6) - Calvin worked on briefly, no send

Hueco Tanks - Nov 7, 2010 - Day 3

2010-11-12T10:00:00.007-06:00

by Christian R. (guest blogger)

I wake up in the morning and I raise my weary head.

I've got a sleeping bag for a blanket and a crash pad for my bed.

I'm not sure where we're going and only God knows where we've been.

I'm a devil here for fun in a nine climber posse, a candle in the wind...

We eat some delicious breakfast burritos prepared by Carine and head over to the Split Boulder for some morning highball shenanigans. There's a 3-star classic called Split Crack visible from the road that has somehow avoided the skull and crossbones designation in the guidebook, despite being close to thirty feet high. I eagerly jump on this enticing line, while deep down I secretly worry about my serious lack of crack climbing skills. Hand jam after hand jam, followed by stemming and more hand jams. My breathing quickens as I approach the boulder's crux. I look down at my lone crash pad, which now looks to be the size of a piece of toast and is way too far over to the right to be of any use. I search desperately for a jug or even a crimper, but there is nothing to help this lost boulderer. I spy a narrowing of the crack high above my head and shove my entire fist deep into the orifice of the problem. It's bomber! Who needs coffee when you're hanging off a fist jam with nothin' but twenty feet of air beneath your feet? After getting my breathing back to normal, I finish off the rest of the climb in style. Wow, what a line. Maybe there's some trad climbing in my future after all.

John, Scott, and Eric have already left us in search of the mysterious Wicicala Cave (V5), but Calvin, the girls, and I are happy as clams, climbing the numerous classic lines of the Split Boulder. Every time I look at Calvin, he's got this perma-grin on his face. The guy obviously is in heaven and can't get enough of the awesome bouldering that is so readily available here. I'm also in heaven, but for different reasons. I'm in heaven while watching Yoli send just about everything in sight. Gone is the nervousness that used to prevail on her face as a result of one too many trips to the ER stemming from bouldering falls gone bad. Here to stay is her warm smile followed by the look of determination as she crushes every boulder problem in her path.

After climbing almost every problem on the Split Boulder, we make our way North toward the Lunch Rocks area. The girls jump on the classic 3-star Orifice Affair (V1), while Calvin and I attempt to tackle Coffee Achiever (V5). Our attempts on Coffee Achiever are humbling and I leave the Lunch Rocks area with my tail between my legs. Calvin stays behind and makes an attempt on Orifice Affair in his approach shoes, but is quickly thwarted. The girls are able to cross Orifice Affair off their lists, Yoli on the 2^nd go, Jamie with the beta flash, and Carine with the redpoint.

Anxious to see the Wicicala Cave, I head South following the screams and shouts emanating from the distant boulders. Upon arriving, I find John topping out on Birth Rights (V3), while Scott and Eric spot from below. To my left is the Wicicala Cave. They've somehow managed to restrain themselves from climbing this stellar line, but that doesn't last long. Scott jumps on Wicicala with a twinkle in his eye and puts down one of the most impressive burns of the trip, almost sending Wicicala on his first try. After a short rest, Scott destroys Wicicala Cave (V5), leaving the rest of us to ponder what the hell just happened. After countless attempts, Calvin and I are finally able to send and John is so close he can practically lick the finishing holds with his tongue!

I head over to the Morgue and watch as Angie and Jamie both stick the huge crux move on T-Bone Shuffle (V4). Knowing they can do every move on the problem, they try as hard as they can to link the problem together, but T-Bone just won't give in.

Angie and Jaime working hard on "T-Bone Shuffle".

We pack up our stuff and drive over to the Pond Parking lot, where we get ready for the hardest hike of the trip. Our arduous journey will take us to one solitary boulder problem, the Ghetto Simulator. There are over 1700 boulder problems in Hueco Tanks and the Ghetto Simulator is arguably the best of the best.

Scotty on the hike out to Ghetto Simulator

The hike is difficult, but as we near the boulder, my feet become light and my mood is giddy. I race to the base of the boulder and slide on my shoes. I feel like a virgin as I caress the starting holds. “Be gentle,” I whisper to the climb as I pull off the ground. It is everything I remember. It is perfection on a boulder.

Scott climbs the Simulator next and remarks that he's just had an orgasm. Calvin pulls on to the start holds after Scott's send, unaware of the difficulties that lie near the end. He gets a little crossed up on the finishing crimps, but is still able to get the flash. Yoli comes so close to slaying the beast on her first try, but my less than stellar beta is her demise. She quickly figures out her own beta and sends on her second go. Yoli's trip is now complete.

Yoli and Carine on Ghetto Simulator - V2

As we head back up the hill towards the North Mountain Meadow, we are content, knowing in our hearts that we have done this place justice. Hueco gives a sigh of relief and the sun dips below the horizon yet again.

Here is the ticklist from Day 3:

Split Crack (V0) - CR Onsight, CH Flash

Banana Split (V0) - CH Onsight, Yoli Flash, CR Flash, Carine Flash, Angie Flash, Jaime Flash

7-10 Split (V0) - CR Onsight, YC Flash, CH Flash, Jaime Flash, Carine Flash, Angie Flash

Splitter Splatter (V1) - The climb up the arete to the right of 7-10 Split - CH Onsight, CR and Jaime Redpoint. Angie and Yoli worked on it.

Splitting Hairs (V0) - Goes up to the tree, just right of the down climb - CR Onsight, YC flash. No one else wanted to climb in the tree.

Coffee Achiever (V5) – CR and CH work on it, but no send.

Orifice Affair (V1) - Yoli 2nd, Jaime Flash. Angie and Carine worked on it, and Calvin tried it once with approach shoes, but no send.

Sculpture (V2) – Yoli works on it, but no send.

Wicicala Cave (V5) - Scott 2nd or 3rd go. CR and CH Redpoint. John and Yoli worked on it.

Birth Rights (V3) - John K, CR Flash.

Birth Lefts (V1) - YC Onsight, Jaime Flash, and Carine Redpoint. I think Scott and John sent it, not sure how many tries.

T-Bone Shuffle (V4) - Angie and Jamie get really close, but no sends.

Ghetto Simulator (V2) - CR Repeat, SS Repeat, CH Flash, and YC 2nd. Carine and Jaime worked on it.

Lobster Claw (V5) - CH works it and gets very close, but no send on Day 3.

King Cobra (V6) - Did SS work this a little on Day 3? Can't remember, no send.

Hueco Tanks Day 2

2010-11-12T09:16:00.002-06:00

"Look at those [Yoli's] triceps." - Scott
"No, that's just where I get my allergy shots. It's always swollen." - Yoli
"Where can I get allergy shots that do that?" - Calvin

Day 2 found us wandering over by the Melon Patch to warmup before hitting T-Bone Shuffle, V4. Christian, as I understand it, has sent V0- to V10+ at HT, but has somehow skipped V4 in the process, and this was a temporary, yet important goal to cross off the list.

Melon Patch is another 4 star V0+. Claaaaaaaaasssic. Just look at the backdrop. Big props to everyone getting on the climb, and especially to Carine for styling this climb and keeping focus. It's a touch highball and has a very poor landing.


Christian showing us the way on Melon Patch

Jaime watching her man send Melon Patch

After working on some other warmups, we worked a few problems while waiting for a group to finish on T-Bone Shuffle. John and I sent Butterdish, V2 on the "Warmup Boulder", Scott stayed warm on a variation to the right while several ladies did Bitch Magnet, V0.

Soon, it was time for the T-Bone. Christian, Scott, John and I all sent this problem in 1 or 2 goes, but the epic send goes to Yoli. T-Bone starts with an obvious jug and poor feet; you campus to big slots and immediately traverse to the left around an arete - all decent holds. After traversing about 8 feet, the crux is a sequential right heelhook at the waist, big move up right to a sloper jug. Here's the beginning:


Angie starting T-Bone Shuffle, V4

Set your feet and do a slight deadpoint directly left to a sidepull crimp:


Angie going for the sidepull, T-Bone Shuffle

Now reset your feet and you have a choice.

Choice 1: you're 5 8" or taller and use a high left foot dropknee, hard lockoff right and pull straight up. Here's what I mean:

Jaime on T-Bone

Choice 2: You're not 5 8" or taller and you set your left foot and do a dynamic move to the jug.


John doing the big move - Yes, I see the irony of the taller guy doing the big move and the shorter person trying the dropknee	.

Angie and Jaime both worked hard on this problem and were inches from success. Strong work! Some of my favorite moments were watching the excitement and nervousness from Yoli, Angie and Jaime - battling the fear of the fall initially (there's a very poor landing), focusing on the deadpoint crux, working beta, each nailing the crux, then attempting to put it all together. There were alternating shouts, dead quiet, some swearing and great climbing burns. Very inspiring!

I think this was our highpoint of the day. Afterwards, we hiked back over to check out the Martini Cave, home to such infamous climbs like (D)Esperanza V14/15; Left/Right Martini and Baby Martini, V6. Mad props to Christian for almost sending this at least twice, with John and Scott nearly getting through the crux several times. BM has a bit of an unfortunate ending, where you slither onto a small boulder (which is greasy and slippery), but there's no other possible finish, so it's understandable. However, the roof climbing to get there is just incredible.


Scott working hard to send Baby Martini V6

I knew I wasn't going to send BM, but I had a good time working the moves and watching the guys refine beta. Christian got so close; that guy's got mad strength.

The consensus was that we weren't feeling sendage on BM, so what did we do? We thought a couple of V7's were in order: Classics like Babyface and Daily Dick Dose. The ladies worked this with us and Eric also smartly did some fun V0's and V1's (nice flash Eric!).

DDD reminds me a bit of Leatherface at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Both are V7's, and both are horizontal climbs on thin holds with very similar crimper cruxes.


Scott on the crux opening of DDD, V7

Scott got very close to hitting the massive jug - sooooo close! My attempts were abject failures, but I had fun. :) Scott, Christian and I also tried Babyface - now this is a classic looking climb! We'll be back; suffice it to say it wasn't the best climb to finish on at the end of a long day. What a great climb!

Later that evening:

"Do you guys have any vitamin I?" - Calvin.

"No." - Carine and Jaime. A few minutes later..."What's vitamin I?"

Also later that evening (these are all verbatim quotes):
"Where's the strap on? The strap on works me so hard and gets all the knots out." - Jaime

You'll have to wait until Day 4 to see the strap on. Sorry.

Here's the Day 2 ticklist:
On the Coprolith boulder by Melon Patch it's The Sphincter (V0), Dingleberry Jones and the Lost Crusade (V0), Hard Wipe (V0-), The Hashmarker (V0-), and Feces of the Ages (V0).

Melon Patch (V0)

Bitch Magnet (V0) - YC Onsight, and all the girls +Eric and CH sent.

T-Bone Shuffle (V4) - CR Flash, SS Flash, CH Flash, John K (2nd?), YC (Jaime and Angie worked on it)

Baby Martini (V6) - Nobody sent.

Cheapskate (V0+) - Carine

The French Route (V0+) - Carine

Daily Dick Dose (V7) - Nobody sent. (SS, CH, Yoli, Jaime worked on it)

Babyface (V7) - Nobody sent. (SS, CH, CR worked on it)

Aftershave (V0) - Carine Onsight, Eric Flash

The Used Blade (V0+) - CR Repeat, Jamie Flash

Hueco TAKE, TAKE, TAKE!!!!!

2010-11-10T19:02:00.002-06:00

Take? Yeah, I'm a rope climber. I meant Hueco Tanks, of course. That was one of many funny quotes that echoed throughout HT last weekend. We had a glorious four days to explore, scramble, climb up and rejoice over our long awaited trip to Hueco Tanks, TX.

Climbers - John & Jaime Kreft, Scott, Eric, Yoli, Christian, Angie, Carine and Calvin
Weather - It's the desert. No clouds! 40's - 70's.

I'll be adding more pictures and entries as I get some more pictures from Yoli and other folks. Most of what I have is on FB, but stay tuned here.

Nov 4, 2010 - Pre-Day One
"How do you get so many free drink coupons?" - Scott
"You've gotta sleep with a looooootttta of people. It, and I, get easier each time." - Carine.

Traveling on Southwest was surprisingly comfortable, but of course tiresome. Here are some of us at the airport:


St. Louis East Terminal

"You want some more food Calvin? No? Calvin never turns down food." - Yoli

El Paso, if you don't know, is located directly across the border from Juarez. You've probably seen the reports of bullets whizzing by, innocent bystanders killed from drug wars and killing sprees. Yeah. I didn't really notice. We spent the night at the posh Homewood Suites, got up early and bounced into the Tanks.

Nov 5, 2010 - Day One

We started the day on North Mountain, and headed to the registration station. I'd heard a lot about the difficult registration process, the hostility of the rangers and the limited climbing, so I was ready for almost anything. Turns out, it was a pretty easy process. You just have to be ready to comply with the rules, watch a video and be respectful of the local resources. Reasonable.

The Registration Station - Where You Pay Homage

Texas State Parks Pass - it's cheaper!

After getting registered, we hiked up to the Small Potatoes area and got to work. The pleasant surprise to me was the range, quality and sheer number of good V0's, V0+ and V1's. Many of the V0's were highball - around 25+ feet, and the height really added a prolonged sense of enjoyment.

The day's ticklist (courtesy of Yoli & Christian thanks for maintaining this - all ratings are out of 4 stars):

Woman of Leisure (V1) - Almost everyone did this one as their first climb of the day, start sitting on far right side, traverse left and up to finish. YC Onsight. Eric climbed it, not sure how many tries.

Mashed Potato (V1) - Christian Flash, nobody else climbed this, hard for the grade.

Bawl and Chain (V0+) - Highball problem located at Small Potatoes area near top of chains, left of the diagonal crack Men In Chains. CR Repeat, CH Flash, AC Flash, Jamie Flash, Carine Flash

Angie on Bawl & Chain V0+

Men in Chains (V0) - Highball diagonal crack problem located at Small Potatoes. CR Repeat, nobody else climbed this to my knowledge

And the Bucket of Parts (V2) - overhanging prow that you climbed near the entrance to the cave where Cast Iron is. CH Flash. John K Flash or second go. Scotty too, not sure if sent.

Cast Iron (V1) - Located deep in the cave near Men in Chains and 'And the Bucket of Parts'. CR 2nd, CH Flash, John K Flash

Christian on Cast Iron V1 highball (and slippery!)

Chive Sucker (V0) - YC onsight, CH did alternative sit start. Carine Flashed

100 Proof Roof (V3) - CR Flash, CH.

Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2) - YC, CH, Scotty Repeat. (Jaime, John, Angie all worked on it)

Pull the Pin (V1) - Climb located just to the right of Nobody Here Gets Out Alive. YC 2nd, CH Flash, Jaime Flash

Lobster Claw (V5) - CH works it I think, but no send on Day 1.

Gumby Traverse (V1) - Near Lobster Claw, YC Onsight

Gumby Direct (V0) - Near Lobster Claw, YC Onsight

Beach Time (V0) - Near Lobster Claw, YC Onsight

The focus of the day was NoOne Here Gets Out Alive, V2. NoOne has a very polished and awkward start - although it's a highly rated problem, the beginning detracts from the overall climb. After you get off the ground, the rest of the problem is very good. Juggy roof climbing at it's best. Here's a quick movie of some of the ladies working the problem:

No One Here Gets Out Alive, V2 - Hueco Tanks, TX from Calvin Hwang on Vimeo.

While several of us worked NoOne, Christian, Scott and I worked Mexican Chicken, V6 and a shorter variation called 100 Proof Roof, V3. CR Flashed 100 Proof, and I got that after a few tries. Scott saved his efforts for Mexican Chicken - and made some good progress.

"Take, Take, Take!!!!!!" - Calvin, at the crux of Lobster Claw.

We were still eager to try new climbs, so we packed up and moved to a new area with some classic problems like Lobster Claw, V5, King Cobra, V6 and some interesting V0/1's. I worked Lobster Claw, a crazy featured climb with multiple kneebars. I made such good progress I thought I would get it second/third go, but that was not to be. I ended up finding the finish terribly difficult and wondered if it would fall. I couldn't use high-kneebar beta and Scott mentioned a thuggy move he pulled on a previous trip. Neither felt promising. Achtung!

The day was getting late, so part of the group split off into town to get dinner (burritos!!) while Christian, Yoli and I stayed to climb some more. Here's the list of what we found and did:

Momento (V0) - CR Onsight, CH Flash, YC Flash - Excellent climb, 3 stars.

Sign of the Cross (V3) - CH - this is the upper finish to Chblanke, V11, which Lynn Hill did on video. The upper part was tough, but super awesome.

Skimmer (V3) - CR Flash, CH Flash, YC 2nd


Skimmer, V3 - starts low left, big shoulder move right

The best climb of the day among many, many excellent climbs, was a rarely rated four star climb called Hershey's Symphony (V1). HS is to the left of more famous problems like Diaphanous Sea, V12 and Terremer, V15. I'm sure you've heard of those. I certainly gawked at those problems, pantomimed the Terremer crux and marveled at the sheer difficulty of the moves. The crux hold on Terremer is a razorblade. Almost incomprehensible how someone could hold that, let alone send.


Yoli on the incomparable Hershey's Symphony, V1

HS doesn't have the notoriety, nor the difficulty of its brethren, but I think it is just as engaging, beautiful and interesting as any climb in Hueco. HS starts at the base of the same boulder (on a different face of course) and features a mostly vertical, shallow crack which climbs angling left to the top of the boulder. It's highball - probably at least 30 feet tall, so you can't fall. Making it a bit spicier is another boulder right behind it that would make a fall even worse, but for all the supposed danger, the climbing is varied and stays fun right to the top. I truly enjoyed that climb. The breathlessness I felt at the top was only partly from the fear and focus I summoned while moving. I wish there were more climbs like that. Props to Yoli for immediately flashing it after. What a way to end our first day at Hueco!

Muir Valley at the Red

2010-10-19T12:48:00.000-05:00

If you've ever climbed at Muir, chances are you've benefited from some of the best climbing the Red has to offer. Please consider donating so it doesn't get shut down.

See this link for some of the costs the owners are incurring in trying to maintain the place.

You can donate here. It's a non-profit that aren't owned by the Webers, and helps defray some of the cost of running the place.

Pushing Past Pain - NY Times

2010-10-19T08:58:00.000-05:00

While I assemble pics for a couple posts on trips to the Red and Jackson, here's an interesting performance article from the NYTimes.

In short, if you spit, you will climb harder.

Just kidding. There's a part of this article I found painfully funny; it talked about top runners finishing races with saliva covering their faces. I assume they're spitting instead of swallowing as they run, and certainly not bothering to turn their head while doing so. All in an effort to conserve energy and keep focus.

This part was very akin to the redpointing process and certainly made sense:

"And as athletes improve — getting faster and beating their own records — “it never gets any easier,” Dr. Swart said. “You hurt just as much.”
But, he added, “Knowing how to accept that allows people to improve their performance.”
One trick is to try a course before racing it. In one study, Dr. Swart told trained cyclists to ride as hard as they could over a 40-kilometer course. The more familiar they got with the course, the faster they rode, even though — to their minds — it felt as if they were putting out maximal effort on every attempt.
Then Dr. Swart and his colleagues asked the cyclists to ride the course with all-out effort, but withheld information about how far they’d gone and how far they had to go. Subconsciously, the cyclists held back the most in this attempt, leaving some energy in reserve."

I'll hopefully have pics and some words up soon. Enjoy your Fall climbing!

Can't Stop, Won't Stop: 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell

2010-10-03T23:30:00.003-05:00

It has been one week since the adventure at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. This was my first time at “Horseshoe Hell” and Dane’s first time to HCR. We arrived Friday around noon, and spent the first day doing a little climbing and bouldering. Calvin worked Leather Face, a V7 crimpy roof problem. I did not get to see his attemp

t Saturday, but Friday he was putting it together nicely, and will hopefully send it next trip!

The 24 hour competition itself was intense. The first ten hours were easy; everyone climbed hard, spirits were high, and energy was flowing. Dane and I got on some 5.11s, while John and Yusuf sent some .12s. All four of us were cruising, s

ticking to our motto of “Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop.” Once it started getting dark, the first wave of exhaustion hit. What we had accomplished so far was a normal day of climbing, but instead of going home to cook food and drink beer we were to climb for another fourteen hours, the next eight of them in the dark.

By midnight, I found the atmosphere was becoming surreal. It was no doubt partly due to fatigue-induced delirium; the glow of all those headlamps flying along the rock, the climbers heard but not seen, the mixture of people napping, hanging out, and madly scrambling upwards – everything blurred together, and as we continued to fight our way through the routes, people would appear out of the darkness. What kep

t us going, other than the red bull and sugar we inhaled between climbs, were the cries of “Can’t Stop Won’t Stop” that frequently permeated the night air, letting us know that Yusuf and John were not too far away. We repaid the favor in kind.

By 10 am Sunday we were past tired. Luckily Calvin drove us home: I would not have made it out of the ranch’s gates. St Louis’ performance in the comp was extraordinary. Russ and John Richard placed 7^th and 8^th in the Team Total Points category, with John and Yusuf right behind them. Dane and I accomplished 101 pitches each, breaking the century mark at 9:52 am on Sunday morning! All in all, an amazing experience. If you haven’t done it yet, clear your calendar for the last weekend of September next year, because whether you compete or volunteer, it is a great weekend.

We all have t-shirts with our motto.

-Marc C. (guest blogger)

REGRESSION

2010-09-23T08:00:00.001-05:00

Another production from our director extraordinaire Yoli. Enjoy! It is comical!

Regression from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.

The Red - Sept 11-12, 2010 - UPDATE

2010-09-15T11:13:00.003-05:00

D on the Burrito

Climbers - Marc, Kevin, Danielle, Calvin, Yoli, Christian, John, Jaime and Conor
Weather - soggy, then nice

Some Pics.

While Soph puts together her entry for the Labor Day trip, I'll put in a quick entry for another interlude taken this past weekend.

Major props to Danielle on her first trip to the Red for sending Breakfast Burrito .10d (uprated in the new guidebook since the flexijug broke) second try and flashing Whipstocking .11a! D took a day of getting her bearings on Corbin sandstone to start looking like a rock goddess. You could see the "click" on Burrito. A few hesitant clips, assessing the climb, then "click" and she started rocketing up the stone. Way to go!

Day 1 - Saturday
John/Jaime/Conor and Yoli & Christian got down for some Friday climbing, and apparently enjoyed the stone at the Gallery. I'll let them fill in the spots since that was before the rest of us got there.

Saturday was a drizzly overcast and misty day. We decided on Roadside to get some drier climbing in, and also to give Marc a chance to Ro Shampo, his project there. Marc had a great first attempt, falling at the last bolt on the crimps! Unfortunately, humidity really set in after and his first attempt proved his best for the day. It'll come soon. Kevin, Yoli, Danielle and Jaime all worked Ro and made good progress.

It was crowded on the .10 wall, so we traded draws on all of the routes, from AWOL over to Pulling Pockets. I put the draws up on Stay the Hand, .12a and got shut down on the opening moves. Hard! I think the extreme humidity didn't help, but Stay requires a pocket and fingery boulder problem to start and it kicked my arse. The rest of the climb went okay, but that's a reminder that I have to return to the hangboard to restrengthen my fingers. Several sessions last season really went a long way, but I've held off this year due to finger injuries.

Yoli had an epic time with Marc and Kevin on Return of Chris Synder, .11d. by timing her climb with a torrential downpour, complete with lightning and thunder. I wasn't there to see it, but I hear she had a great time. :P

Christian and I spent a little time on Tic-Tac-Toe, .12b, but it was slippery and humid. I've fallen at the crux multiple times now, and need to up my game.

Day 2 - Sunday

We were thankful to wakeup to a beautifully clear and sunny Sunday. We partially packed and headed to Drive-By!

Marc in the crux of Check your Grip

I've already given props to D for her sends above. I think she was a little frustrated to not climb well at Roadside, but it takes a little time to get used to a new area and the humidity really made it hard. I think she had a great showing and set the bar high for a first trip.

Kevin took a breather as his finger acted up, and John/Jaime/Conor headed back early to St. Louis as Conor had picked up a cold. I enjoyed 2 new climbs, Fire and Brimstone, .10d and Big Sinkin' Breakdown, .11c. Both were pretty pumpy, but felt good. Marc climbed the Burrito and warmed up on a .10b while Yoli & Christian warmed up on the .10b and Slick and the 9mm, .10b. Slick is an underrated climb; I highly recommend it.

That left Check Your Grip, something I'd always tried on the last day, last attempts of a trip, and hadn't sent. CYG now has perma draws, probably because of the level of traffic it sees, and that was really nice. Marc had a proud first attempt, getting to bolt five (traversing from crimps into the side-pull slopers) before taking a massive whipper. I apparently wanted to imitate Marc as I took the same whipper immediately after. Christian has video that I hope we can link to soon. Marc and I rested and tried again, and I was able to get it second go. CYG is definitely more of an endurance climb, not so much a cruxy one, so that played to my current (non)strength and allowed me to send.

It was only a two day trip for the four of us, but we had a great time. Thanks to Yoli & Christian for inspiring us for another trip to the Red!! I love that place.

End of the month will see us at the 24HHH. Stay tuned!

RRG - Labor Day 2010

2010-09-12T11:44:00.002-05:00

Before I have more time to write up on a glorious WE with so many good friends, here are some random photos of Team Saucisson in action! I am 180% sure we'll be back before soon (;) inside joke...)

Here's to a Great Fall Season (trip to the Falls Aug 28, 2010)

2010-08-29T18:40:00.001-05:00

Climbers: Calvin, Angie & Tony
Weather: Warm, but not too bad

It's been a long summer. Yesterday, I reflected on what has seemed like a summer of record temps, extreme humidity and general unpleasantness in the Midwest. Team Saucisson has been quiet as a result, with some trips to other locales, but mostly gym climbing and injury healing the rule of the season.

With the temperatures the way they were, I leapt at the chance when I got a call from Tony asking about a trip to the Falls on Saturday:

T: "Hey buddy. You see the temps for Sat?"
Me: "Yeah. High of 90, looks pretty good."

Funny how 90 degrees previously would have made me scoff at any mention of going outdoors to climb, especially at Jackson. Well, a summer of no outdoor climbing, no trips out west, and suddenly, I think 90 degrees equal sending temps. Welcome to desperation.

We got up early and were on the road before 5:30. Angie had never been to the Promised Land, and was excited to go see a new area, so we headed there. We didn't do much climbing; just old main-stays like XOXO .10b for the warm-up; Angie worked on Fashionably Late .11a, Tony re-visited Balance of Power which he sent a while ago, .12b/c(d?) and I worked Hubba Hubba, .12a/b(c?). Sending didn't happen, but we ran laps, relearning beta, coping with the heat and just loved the outdoors. Props to Angie for attacking FL on lead and getting more comfortable. Props to Tony for completing his one-year intensive graduate program in nursing and for looking like he hasn't missed a step. Tony 1-hung BoP his second and third go. By contrast, I thrashed up HH two times and dogged BoP so badly my rope-mates were looking for moral victories when trying to ~~avoid embarrassment about~~ compliment my climbing.

Around 4:30pm, we ran low on water and headed out with roughed up fingertips, throbbing digits and smiles on our faces.

The Fall is coming. We've got a Labor Day trip to the Red, the HCR 24HHH comp, a November trip to Hueco and other exciting trips this fall. Here's to a Great Fall Season!

Team Saucisson on the Woody

2010-08-24T22:17:00.003-05:00

Here is how Team Saucisson can spend a few hours "speed climbing". The only time you might see Yusuf climb really fast!!!!
The video is, of course, courtesy of Yoli our photographer extraordinaire.

Speedy Woody Sesh 2010 from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.

Linville Gorge

2010-07-13T12:52:00.006-05:00

Climbers: Tim, Carine, Eric H

Location: Linville Gorge, NC

Climbing: Moderate yet epic

As June neared its close, I felt the need to get out of St. Louis for some exposure to the outdoors, so I did what any normal person does these days – I posted a message on Facebook. Eric responded mentioning freedom over the 4^th of July weekend, and Carine was in for our third. We debated a little on locations, but in the end the desire to do moderate multi-pitch climbing won out, and we were set on the quartzite wonderland of Linville Gorge. Eric would lead, Carine would second, and I would clean.

After our 12-hour overnight drive to our secluded camp off the side of the road to Table Rock and a brief nap, we set out for Table Rock with our goal being to climb My Route. The first two pitches of “My Route” were shared by Cave Route. The first pitch, a 5.4 slab, was a meandering pitch with 3 bolts (1 of which spun quite freely) and plenty of places for Eric to place gear. The lower grade was a nice introduction the the quartzite of Linville Gorge, though it seemed like no more than two pitches of the weekend shared the same features.

The second pitch was a slightly longer slab that went at 5.5 that had some great slab climbing to a crack, and finally to a giant ledge where Eric belayed from trees. At this point we went off route a little as we neglected to bring any paper with beta on the route. Instead of going right to the 2 (or 3) pitches that would consist of My Route, we went left to what we thought was the obvious line. The first pitch was as we expected, though a little shorter than we remembered. 5.5/5.6 slab climbing lead us to a ledge under an arcing roof. The next pitch didn’t look like a 5.7, but Eric sussed it out, looking for a way around the roof. After a little work, Eric found his way to a suitable belay above, and Carine and I took our turns on what would be the last pitch of the day. The last challenging moves of the route ended up climbing through a manky dihedral with your last protection below you, the rope trailing away left, and climbing up left again through more dirty handholds (where Eric placed a clutch lien) to finally reach safe harbor. The 5.7 became a 5.9+. We scrambled through yards of lovely underbrush, made our way to the top of the mountain, and walked the trail back to our packs.

Our goal for day 2 was to climb the Mummy, a 350 foot 3 pitch 5.5. After more bushwhacking (including some harrowing scrambling through precariously-perched shrubbery) we found our way to the Mummy. While the rock and climbing style on Table Rock was mostly uniform, the Mummy showed a glimpse of many different features. Gone was the slightly slippery quartzite of the east side of the ridge, replaced by a rockier, rougher stone. The first pitch started at a low angle, but moved more vertical into a fun, slightly overhanging crack system with good holds. As we moved up the route, holds became a bit more fractured, but not chossy. Pitch 2 eased up things a bit, with slabby climbing around more interesting cracks. Pitch 3 offered more of the same, but moved out right to the arête for the most exposed, and fun, climbing of the day. After cooling down at the car with beers and water, we packed up our campsite, ran into town for some grub, and headed to a campsite at the base of the trail to Shortoff Mountain.

A hour or so hike in the blazing sun took us to the gully we would descent to our final route of the weekend, Paradise Left (5.8), a slightly easier variation on Paradise Alley (5.8+). This climb had some amazing features, and each pitch was completely different from the previous. The first pitch of Paradise Left was just over a hundred feet long, with the first part of the route going up a 20 foot ramp into a fairly long dihedral with lots of features on either side that served as really good holds. After moving out left a little and whaling up on a ledge, you follow good holds to the first large belay ledge. The second pitch was most notable for its start, moving vertically through a system of detached blocks before wading through a couple shrubberies en route to another good face climb and a huge belay ledge. The third pitch was the highlight of the trip for me. The first 30 or 40 feet of this 5.6 (or was it 5.7?) pitch is a slightly overhanging wall with giant incut jugs. There’s a nice seam that runs alongside the jugs, making for easy gear placement. As I climbed the overhang, I looked down a couple times in order to take in the incredible exposure below. Once you pull the overhang, the remainder of the climb is a scramble to the final pitch.

In order to reach pitch four, you step up on a block, and reach over to an overhung wall of 5.8 climbing. What you don’t realize until you step up on the block, however, is that up until this point you have been climbing on a detached block. Stepping onto pitch 4 puts you back on the mountain proper, but also leaves you with a 350 foot drop below. Talk about a head game! Once you’ve worked the head issues out, you still have to step across, jug up on crimps, and move through some blocky, nasty-looking holds. Thankfully, the holds were all better than they looked and after we all did a few false starts, we got through the crux, scrambled to the top, and the climbing for the weekend was finished.

Long routes at moderate grades with beautiful exposure…I could get used to this stuff…

Miles to go before I sleep...

2010-06-26T14:35:00.002-05:00

My summer of climbing has come to an abrupt end. Unfortunately, on our first day out on the rock, my partner took a bad trad fall. We were climbing a right facing 3 pitch 5.7 dihedral. On pitch two, he attempted the 5.9- offwidth variation, and fell out of the top of the crack, with just a 0.5 and 0.4 BD camalot below him. A 35' crash into the corner left him with large bruises, abrasions and a sprained ankle. After a few days rest and perspective, we decided to cancel the climbing trip, since we wouldn't be able to climb much, if at all.

I spent some time reflecting and thinking - the goal for the summer was to challenge myself, to find new boundaries. A big wall seemed like the perfect opportunity. I thought about heading to the valley to meet up with other climbers, and pursue a few lines, but the accident really helped me realize that we need climbing partners not when things are good, but when they are bad. I have no doubt that there are some talented climbers in the valley, waiting to find a good partner. My head, and heart, just weren't into this situation.

I've decided instead to hike the Colorado Trail, 483 miles from Denver to Durango. I will be traveling light (my pack, without food and water, is just 15.5 pounds), so I hope to move fast and far. This is a much different opportunity to spend time in the mountains, but I think the wilderness connection will be stronger, the challenges a bit more diverse.

We'll catch up again in three weeks time! Until then - Cheers!

Article on Friction

2010-06-24T09:51:00.004-05:00

Interesting write-up on friction with detailed explanations accessible even to the lay person. Credit to Dave Flanagan.

http://www.theshortspan.com/features/friction.htm

"Just a good day in the mountains"

2010-06-18T09:43:00.005-05:00

It has been ten excellent days on the road, and my dad and I have finally arrived in Portland (just in time for father's day!). The drive was long - with lots of cold, rain and wind - but filled with expansive landscapes, big mountains, and beautiful surroundings. Sitting in the 1947 Plymouth was a great way to see the country roll by, at a *leisurely* 55 mph; the lack of a radio gave us a chance to converse and reflect, to spend time together. During the trip, I managed to fit in two full value adventure climbs, the first with my dad, the second with a friend from Montana.

The first climb might be stretching the definition for this blog, but it brought all of the same feelings as a roped multi-pitch - the adrenaline, the doubt, the excitement at reaching the peak. "Pikes Peak or Bust!" Pikes Peak is a 14,000' mountain, with a long history of motorized summits. The main road is 19 miles to the top, filled with steep grades, tight turns, plenty of gravel, and thin thin air. My dad handled the drive with precision, keeping the pedal pounded and the engine humming. There were a few times I wasn't sure we would make it, but in the end, the old car survived, we enjoyed the summit, and made a hasty retreat as storm clouds moved in around 9 am. What a great day.

The second climb was one of my favorite mountain days ever. A good friend of several years drove down from Boseman MT to the Tetons to meet up for a day. The spring has been cold and snowy in WY, and the climbing rangers warned us that Monday the 13th might (might!) be the first climbing day of the season. We woke for an alpine start at 5 am, with big clouds hanging low in the valley, but decided to head out and see what the rock looked like. The goal for the day was Irene's Arete on Disappointment Peak, an excellent 6 pitch 5.9 on a South facing piece of bullet proof granite (rare in the Tetons), which sits below the Grand, providing excellent views throughout the day.

John and I have spent plenty of time backpacking and hiking peaks, but never roped climbing, so Irene's was a special way to combine everything we've enjoyed in the mountains together. We hiked the four miles from the trailhead to boulder field relatively quickly, then got out the crampons and ice axes for the last approach in snow. Another short mile of relatively easy travel, then it was kicking steps and scrambling to the base of the route. A four hour approach, but the low lying clouds had broken, and it was nothing but bluebird skies above, promising a great climb (and in retrospect, an excellent sunburn).

The climb is documented well on other sites (climbing.com, summitpost.org, mountainproject.com), but the route follows the edge of the prominent arete, with every pitch providing fun movement and exposure. Pitch 2 followed a 5.8 handcrack through a small roof, to a belay directly underneath the arete proper; pitch 3 followed a band of black rock, moving back and forth on each side of the arete, putting plenty of air under your feet; pitch 4 moves up a 5.8 finger crack, to a juggy 5.6 roof, into a long flaring 5.7 crack; pitch 5 provides the crux - twenty feet of excellent fingers in a 90 degree corner, with a long 5.7 slab to the notch. From the notch, we pulled on a few pieces of gear to move through an awkward 5.8 finger/hand crack to a slab, then soloed the last 50 feet of easy fifth class slab climbing to the summit. It was 5 o'clock and time to get home!

Two more hours of kicking steps in the snow down the descent colouir, then a long section of lower angle snow that we were able to 'boot ski'. We finished with a beautiful hike out during the 8 oclock hour, back to the car in time for a celebratory beer as the sun began to set. All in all, an excellent day in the mountains, where John and I were each able to push ourselves in new ways. He finished his longest climb to date (all while carrying a backpack loaded with boots, crampons and ice axes!), and I got to experience mountains in early summer, complete with snow. Definitely a climb I'll remember.

For those interested, a lot of pictures of the '47 Plymouth and roadtrip are here; a few decent pictures of Irene's Arete are here.

Support Our Friend Tony Perolio - Please Consider Donating

2010-06-13T20:59:00.001-05:00

This is for a fellow local climber and friend, Tony Perolio. Tony is one of the most inspirational people I have ever met. He has come back from battling Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia TWICE - the latter time via stem cell transplant through a donor. Read his inspirational story here.

Tony's now facing graft versus host disease, and his body is rejecting the transplant. He's been through more than I thought anyone could manage and here he is fighting everyday. I've talked with Tony several times and if you didn't see the physical manifestation of these tough side effects, you wouldn't know he was suffering. Tony's kept a strong, positive attitude; he shares and reflects the love of his family and friends, and he's determined to fight and live.

There are two ways to help help support Tony: 1) by going to the above link and consider donating to support his treatment and 2) attending the show on June 24 headlined by Jon Hardy and the Public, The Hibernauts & Kid Scientist. Insurance and Medicare have now denied paying for experimental treatment he's due to receive in Boston.

I've added his page link permanently to the right as well.

Would you please put a shirt on?*

2010-06-02T14:08:00.024-05:00

*Would you brush my teeth?

Climbers:
Jaimie, John and little Connor, Scott, Meghan, Tara and Craig , Tall Tim, Sharon, Carolyn and Tommy, Calvin and Angie, Yoli and Christian, Sophie.

HORSESHOE CANYON, AR. Memorial day Week-End.

The spring storms had been rolling in on and off in the Saint Louis area, sometimes bringing apocalyptic shows and yes... puddles in my basement. But for the WE the forecast had cleared, somewhat miraculously. Arkansas looked like the sunny spot to be
Craig and Tara had been floating on the Buffalo river for the past week, and had secured a camping area for us which was quite lucky on a week-end we knew was going to be busy at the Ranch.
By Friday night everyone had arrived but for Calvin and Angie and Tommy and Carolyn. Yoli and Christian were in their "secret camping spot" and would meet us in the morning.

Saturday morning, the sun rose on a cloudless sky and a bit of warm weather. But whoever knows this area in the summer will attest this was "ideal". Stay out of the sun and you would be a happy climber. And that was the plan.
I love camping. I have already an internal clock very much based on the daylight ( and get teased about it endlessly) but when I camp, it is even more of an incentive for me to follow the sun patterns. And this is the season when the sun is an early bird. By 5:30 am/6:00 I am fully awake. Through the mesh of my tent, the starry sky was chased away by dawn. The morning fog is slowly rising on the Eastern side of the canyon, the air still crisp. Let's go climb!
By 6:30 am half of our group is already moving around. Craig has emerged from his tent and his going through his morning stretch routine.
"For Pete's sake, Craig, would you put a shirt on, you make me feel bad!"
Scott just came out of his morning daze with the shirtless vision of our friend!
I do not mind Scotty...don't know what's your problem!
Yoli and Christian roll in, half awake.
We are ready to go by 7:00/7:30.

Mr Magoo Rock is our first stop for the day. A detached boulder on the Western side of the Ranch, Mr Magoo offers some splendid lines. Scott and I are on a mission: 10 routes today. By 9:30/10:00 am we are on our way to a good start. He has 6 , I have 5!
Everyone takes turns on Man Servant a powerful 5.9 arete, while Tall Tim, Sharon and Tara go warm up on Memoirs of Daisha 7 and The Flying Daisha 6, coming back around the corner to join us on Road Hoag 10a. We then move on our warm up to Mr Magoo, the classic 10b, Mr Charlie (pumpy 10d), and Christian and Scott finish off on Heavy Stigmatism 11b, Scott pulling the rope with a gigantic knot in it! Ah it takes a PHD...never mind I am just an artist what do I know? eh eh. Scott just wanted to climb one more route.
It is not even 10 yet....oh yeah we are on the roll.
The sun is moving fast and gets ready to hit the Eastern face of the canyon. It will be time to move across soon.
Just enough time to get one or two climbs on the far East faces.
King Kong, 11a for Craig, Scott and I while the others move on to Orange Crush, 9+ and Purple Nehi, 11b.
King Kong is a great line, sustained and keeping you on your toes pretty much the whole way. I had never done it on lead and was really happy to finish it with just one fall while the boys crushed it in great fashion, the three of us using very different beta (imagine that!)!
The trickiest part of all was to pull the rope away from the poison ivy which has invaded the base of that wall, making falls before the first clip even less inviting. A good incentive to go up!
A hike across the canyon brings us back to the campsite as the sun is brushing the faces we were just climbing. A little lunch pause means siesta time for Super Craig. Scott follows suit while Connor is working on some good healthy food.

By 2:00 pm the Western walls are more in the shade. Time for some little trad action! Craig is leading Tara, Meghan, Scott and I towards a line, Deft Jam, a classic 9 hand crack. The rest of the group is still in nap mode and will end up bouldering at the Idahoes.
The spring has been quite wet, and nature has taken over. A blanket of poison ivy is covering the grounds all the way to the Confederate Cracks wall. We really wanted to climb some crack but not at the price of itching for days. I have never seen the Ranch so lush, beautiful yet deadly.
Plan B, another classic for which the approach is clear: Hackberry Crack a 9 splitter crack.

I had done that crack on gear over two years ago, back in the days I was doing more Trad. Funny then it felt comfortable and moderate. I looked at this thing, and nope it was not going to be my choice for a return to Trad! And I was glad I followed it! Scott lead it without much problem, climbing with style...did I hear a grunt?

And we all took TR turns on it. Meghan, on one of her first true crack climb showed she was a natural, and Tara flew up it (it must help to live with a "crack-nut" Craig that is). Craig used it as his lap-route (TR and lead)...

We then decided to get away from the "rain forest" and head down to the North Forties.
"10 routes we have to get to 10 routes!"
Scott was insistent. he was on a mission. Our morning rhythm had let up a bit!
"Come on Sof let's finish this!"
Scotty was on climbing overdose, judge for yourself:

Our energy level was starting to crash. I knew I had maybe a couple moderate routes in me, that was it. Then I realized I was facing my chance to get my trad head back on. Green Goblins, an 8 I have climbed many times used to be a trad route. Perfect, I would do it on gear. If I would freak out I could go for the bolt! Not the purest thing to do maybe but safe enough! So while Craig and Scott were scaling Sonny Jim, an 11a next to Lavender Eye, I racked up (Craig style_with a gear loop sling_which I had never used before) and headed for my first placement.

Ah...more than 2 years with no trad and suddenly placement are not so smooth, reminding me, trad is also about finding that more comfortable stance. First cam in: solid, resisting fine under a strong pull. and then just before I decide to move on I test it one more time and the piece comes right off. Right Sof. Let's see about the left side if I have more luck. A bit of placement struggle at the beginning which made my very patient belayer Meghan a bit nervous, and then I found my groove and my run-out towards the top!!
Cool that felt good. Scotty 8 routes will do for me!
Here is Scotty on Sonny Jim, his 8th or ninth route of the day:

And Meghan on a new route right of Green Goblin (8, 9?):

Scotty made it to 10 routes that day. Animal. I knew I was going to feel the day in the morning. 8 was plenty for me. As the light was dimming I headed back to camp to find the rest of our friends already tucked into camping chairs sipping on beer having a few laughs with Carolyn and Thommy who had made it in shortly before. Sounded good. Dinner could wait a bit!
While laughing on the events of the day, we had additional entertainment provided by some brainless guy who thought it was a good idea to "parade" his tiny Honda Civic capped with a full size canoe up and down the very rough road leading to the upper campground. at the rate of his round trips, not one but 4 of them, it looked like he was too lazy to WALK down (a mere 5 minutes walk) to the camp store! The fact he was rolling up and down way too fast and that his (but was it his?) car was bottoming out at every rock did not seem to phase him a bit. By the fourth trip, we gave him a sarcastic applause, raising our beers to his endless idiocy.
By dinner time Calvin and Angie rolled in. Time for a round of Jadan, this crazy card game Yoli and Christian had taught us at the Red.
The night was clear and the sky full of stars. Another good day awaiting.

Sunday.
Yes indeed the campers of HCR seem to offer free entertainment. Meghan wakes up to an odd scene indeed: walking to get water, she runs into our "neighbors" going through their morning "routine". Odd one that is, the guy leaning towards his girlfriend brushing her teeth. No, no typo: HE was brushing HER teeth. OK that is weird. Needless to say that would become the quote of the day "would you brush my teeth". Yes I know very little can entertain our joyous group.
Thanks to the early morning light, we had another early start under perfect clear skies. Headed towards the North 40s, where some of the members of our group had never climbed, we lined up a few warm-ups before hitting a few harder lines. Lavender Eye (12a), Big Top (11c), Love Slave (11c), Mine Mine Mine (11d) and a new line next to Love Slave among others.
By noon, dark clouds had rolled in. Out of nowhere it looked like a storm was brewing. Sure enough. I was on Love Slave about to attack the crux, when thunder and lightning tore the sky.
Angie who was belaying me got me down in a hurry. Our tents where not covered. No rain fly so confident we were with the forecast! We raced down the campground under pouring rain, to be stopped half way by Craig telling us Scotty had taken care of all the tents.
My hero.
In fact his bowel movement had saved us! He was in the camp area's bathroom when the sky came down!
The rest of the climbing day was pretty much a wash. Love Slave and Mine Mine Mine remained dry (besides Love Slave's top out which was rather soaked) and some of us played on them for bit. But the range of climbing was now reduced to these couple of lines. Yoli could not climb anymore as she had developed a mega flapper on Mine Mine Mine. It was not long before we headed back to camp and called it a day. A pizza in the little town of Jasper sounded pretty good then.
....
To be continued

Cell Block Six Video - RRG

2010-05-26T19:45:00.000-05:00

Cell Block Six from Sean Stewart on Vimeo.

I've tried this. Pumpy. The vid is of a french guy - Sophie should like this. :) Video from Sean Stewart's vimeo, link courtesy of the Narc's page.

Border Country

2010-05-22T22:41:00.001-05:00

This is a beautiful video by Jeremy Collins. A touching tribute.

Rainbow Wall - Original Route (.12a/b) Free Solo

2010-05-18T09:18:00.000-05:00

Joe of Team Tuesday and I have talked about doing this route for a little while now. The description of the route is fantastic:

"The Original Route on the Rainbow Wall is perhaps Red Rocks’ finest route. It is certainly a crown jewel in terms of achievement: Once you’ve climbed it, things like Levitation 29 and Cloud Tower seem like cragging routes."

14 pitches, 1000 feet. A lifetime goal for some. Or just one of 3 climbs you do (taking about an hour to do all 1000 feet) in a day of free-soloing if you're this guy Honnold. After climbing this, he goes and climbs Prince of Darkness (.10c) and downclimbs Dream of Wild Turkeys (.10a). Comments online justifiably wonder at this kid's ability to solo something so heinous. *sigh* :)

I'm sure you guys have read about this already, but here's a nice write-up from Climbing.com.

A taste of Miso Soup

2010-05-12T14:11:00.036-05:00

Climbers:
Scott, Katie, Tony, Brad, Sophie, + day 2: Yoli, Christian, Craig, Tara, Calvin, + day 3: Meghan and Mary Kate.... and Chivo and Mia our fav canines!

3 days-WE and a near perfect forecast for Southern IL. Why drive 6 hours towards KY, when the great bluffs of the Falls have yet plenty of challenges awaiting?
Brad, a good ol' friend of Tony was coming along for the ride, and actually driving Tony and I in style in his roomy Buick SUV. Sitting on the back seat, the middle one removed to accomodate the gear and Brad's giganticus "camping chairs" (yes these would not have fit in my car...) I had the feeling to be in a limo ordering the chauffeurs around for coffee, or even some karaoke songs with which they indulged me with brio! Oh yeah there was a duo!

Scott and Katie caravaned with their dogs Chivo and Mia. Not a cloud in the sky. On for a good WE.
After setting camp, Brad picked up his guitar. A campfire and some good ol' tunes. It does not get any better than that. "I wish you were here" was the last song for the night, and it would pretty much stick in my head for the rest of the WE, as I caught myself humming it several times at the crag.

Friday, day 1:
Beautiful day, a bit warm which allowed the ticks to have a party with everyone's blood. Yum! The downside of the great outdoors....
The Gallery to start a good warm up on the usual "misfits" and other Therapy routes. I could climb these over and over. Here is the great Psychotherapy.

The dogs were exploring around which for Mia meant bringing back the biggest logs she could put in her jaws on. Here she is...blending in.

By mid-day we had hit the moderate routes facing the Battle Axe Tower area and on towards the Beaver wall where Tony and Scott got on Who needs friends, this beautiful 12a overhanging crack line in the middle of the wall which has now permanent draws! Tony sent it in Tony style, finding his rests... check it out:
And Scott followed suit:

Brad, great sport, had slipped on Tony's "3-size-down" shoes and scaled some rock, but by that time of the day he probably thought we were all insane to subject our feet to such torture in order to monkey up some cliffs! "Where are my golf clubs?"
We finished the day on a SCARY route just before the Railroad Rock, Frigid Digit a 10b line which could be fantastic if one did not need to garden and till as one goes up, which Tony did and almost called for his mommy at the top (I felt like calling mine on TR!!!!!!). A new concept for Sand Bag, the literal meaning of it!
The clouds were rolling in. A little thunder in the distance. By the time we were about to eat rain came. Scott finished his grilling in the back of his car when the campfire finally died. He does look pretty comfy though.

Calvin, Craig and and Tara arrived right as the storm was moving away. The forecast was for a perfect WE.

Saturday, day 2: Yoli and Christian had made it late at night. Team Saucisson was growing by the day.
After rain wets the Falls where do you go climb the following day? The area one is sure to find some dry stunning faces: The Promised land.

As its name would have you believe it, The Promised Land is another world. And really it is. On the other side of the railroad, one has to have the will to go there. The walk is bit longer, the poison ivy fiercer, the ticks... well still blood thirsty but hey Calvin was there to attract them. Yet this land has a Promise: sheer steep faces of amber sandstone offering some of the greatest and most challenging climbing around.
First stop at the X Block for a series of warm-ups which in this Land of Promises means cranking some mid-tens/eleven right away. But I have to admit the classics XOXO and Generator X are great way to start a day of climbing. Craig is already flexing hard as you can see.... (on XOXO, 10b)

Brad is pondering. Could I try this in my golf shoes? The spikes might help.

Tony reverted to sign language... but what's up with the Gri-gri?

Yoli is getting her blood flowing on XOXO.

By the time we were moving on from that wall, it was obvious that Chivo who had disappeared as we were hiking from the Falls, was not going to make there, crossing a stream and a railroad. Scott and Katie went back to look for him, not really worried as their 2 year old puppy had done it before. The little "kid" looking for his own path. They would come back a few hours later. Good Chivo had made it back to...camp! A long day of hiking for them!
While our friends were battling the ivy and ticks, we headed down to the main wall towards a route Christian and Tony had worked a few days prior, a new line (probably a mid-12) right of Congo Spray, sharing its start.
It was on Wednesday: "Miso soup bowl!" Christian was ecstatic as he had put his hand on this hidden THANKYOU jug up on the face the first time he had climb it. The reward after a very powerful crux involving a knee-bar/sidepull change over to an extended cross-over move on a -yes of course- very steep face. Christian had unlocked the tricky sequence, a beautiful thing to see when he had worked it the first time hanging the draws. I had watched, humbled, as in a team effort he and Tony had relentlessly worked the line, lookign forward to a full bowl of Miso Soup.
Today, this line was to be the project for the guys ready to have a few spoon-full of delectable steep sandstone. Here are some of the boys in their playpen:

In the meanwhile Yoli was playing with her new "photo seat" made by her dearest Chritian. There will be more much more beautiful picts. coming from her soon, no doubt.

By mid-afternoon, Scott, Katie and Chivo had made it back. Not much climbing for these guys, but nevertheless both crushed Fashionably late, a beautiful 11a, right after they slipped on their shoes -naturals they are-! Brad, wearing the much more comfortable Scott's Mythos, got on it as well and had some crazy lay-back action going on. Golf does make you flexible! ;)

And while Craig took Brad and Tara to climb a little more moderate route, Christian was at his 3rd or 4th burn on Miso Soup. He had it dialed. "kssss" "kssss" The grunts started to come out as he reached the second part of the climb. One more move to the Miso Bowl. 5 more feet... He was going to send.
And his foot toed in the wrong spot.
There it went.
The bowl had spilled again.
Oh so close.
Achh agonizing. His face tells it all:

Great work Christian, there will be a next time.

"I'm pretty wiped, it might be ugly...." Tony was about to launch his 4th or 5th run on it. And he finally put his lips to the bowl and drunk it all. In pure Tony style shaking endlessly before the last bolt, he finally sent the line.
"A team effort" he said looking at Christian.
Inspiring.

And inspired I was. I had been eyeing Team Honda (12a) all day trying to find the right motivation for it and really needing someone to work it with me. Yoli had descended from her perch and even top roped Miso-Soup (impressive...I did not make it past the first bolt!).
She was my girl!
I had been on the route a few days before and knew there was a stopper move for me after the 4th bolt, one of these reachy spans I was not able to unlock. Team Honda is a long line which gets steeper as it goes, and ends on a totally horizontal roof. It always had intimidated me so it was good to break through the fears and insecurities.
I unlocked the stopper move by using a tiny little pebble-knob. I pray this thing will stay there! But higher up the steepness spitted me out. "go for it it's a jug!" I hear my good friend Calvin say as I go for a rounded ledge under the 5th bolt and wipe out! That's no jug! I had not much left so after trying a few times came down, and let Yoli play for a while. She did great, and got stopped by that reachy move which had been my nemesis. Craig hopped on it and finished it with strong work. I offered to clean it since the route has such an overhang. Of course what I feared happened: I fell under the roof which means my only way to get back up was to "batman" my way up the rope which reached the anchor through two 90º angles! This was an epic: 4 guys hanging on the rope helping Tony pull me up including Christian hanging upside down on an ascender. Lots of grunting (on my part) and a definite group effort. I am afraid Yoli has it on film.....A pretty entertaining way to end a great day of climbing among great people.
More picts of the first two days here.

Sunday, day 3
Another beautiful day with a very cool morning. Meghan and Mary Kate had made it late afternoon to join Team Saucisson for one day.
We headed back to the Beaver Wall hoping for a couple of new routes which were in the works a couple of days earlier. Indeed they were. Russell had just finished a new 11c a few days before and flashed the FA, and another line was being bolted to the right of Everybody needs friends.
Meghan had her sights on Flingin Hog and sent it second go. Great job Meghan. First 11a outside, and on a great line!
Christian flashed Everybody needs friends (12a) and Craig crushed Who needs friends (12a) while Tony and Calvin went to play on a 12b Echolocation (I think that is the one) at Mr Jimmy's wall.
We all played on the 9 and 10 around the corner from Everybody needs friends, and Yoli and I ended up working the new 11c Russel had put up, Cougar's Love. A great challenging line to which I cannot wait to come back.
Calvin squeezed in a climb on the new arete line which he fired beautifully till the top out where his body language became, should I say, entertaining!
Back to the Lou with more great memories, and an ever-growing Team Saucisson.

Volcano, tornadoes... Rock on!

2010-05-01T17:13:00.021-05:00

Climbers:
LJohn, Yusuf, Burke, Dane, Calvin, Angie, Thom, Kristin (and Carrig!), Joe, Yoli, Christian, Josh, Catherine, Tall Tim, and Woody (camping appearance in the Cadillac on his way to and from a wedding in NC)

Sometimes Nature has a way to remind us who is really in charge, and She humbles us showing where we belong, justly dwarfing us. April was one of these months. Last week was one of these times. It was to be a French April for me and the extended Team Saucisson, as my nephew Fab (Fabrice) and his wife Manon were to celebrate their 10th anniversary by joining us from France at the Gorge. It was not to be for the Frenchies. A volcano with an absolutely unpronounceable name had decided otherwise creating havoc in the European skies. Mother nature had spoken and, if disappointed, we agreed to listen and planned for another adventure next year. Fab and Manon ended up going climbing in Spain. As we all agree Plan B was not so bad...:)

The missing Frenchies were there in spirit... glued on cardboard cut-outs:

But Team Saucisson remained unbowed, even after looking at a grim forecast for Kentucky. Yes yes there is always something to climb at the Red even when the elements decide to strike hard, which they...did.
It was my first time camping at Lago Linda, which from now on I'll consider the Eldorado of KY!. It is 5 stars camping, and I have to admit not missing a bit the obnoxious noisy nights of Miguel nor the flash floods raging through the camp site when it pours down. Yes you guessed it we had plenty of these!

LJohn Burke and I were on our way by Wednesday morning (21st) joining Dane and Yusuf who had left a day earlier. Then the group grew day after day as more arrived. Thom and Kristin traveled with 3 1/2 month old Carrig who turned out to be quite a hardy camper!

The video compiled by Yoli will speak better than words.
I'll let you enjoy it.

Red River Gorge - "April Showers" from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.

It is a wonderful memento to this really good few days with friends. Those who did not make it from here and overseas, were missed but the rock will be there for another "visit".
These are the areas we hit:
Wed- Day 1 (21st): end of the day at Military Wall

Thu-Day2: Pendergrass The Shire and Rival Wall. New wall for me with stellar routes like Delayed Gratification and Hatfield ( Rival) two superb loooong 10 c and the G-Man and KSB at the Shire (10c and 10d). Some of us scaled Amarillo Sunset an absolutely gorgeous STEEEEP 11b with LOOONG moves.
Yusuf, discovering a new passion for photography, made sure to entertain us rigging some ropes to go hang between the cliff and the trees in order to get more interesting photo angles. And he got some cool shots. Judge for yourself.

Fri-Day 3: After a lot rain during the night and a not too promising forecast, we were bound to Roadside Crag where Joe sent Tic Tac Toe, and John managed to bring back a piece of the cliff, a pretty good hold 2/3 up Pulling Pockets!
See pictures of the day here.

Sat- Day 4: Curbside and Drive-by Crag
Another storm during the night, another dry day...till about 4 in the afternoon. Overhanging steep faces here we come. Welcome to the Red!

Sun- Day 5: Bruise Brothers Wall, Boneyard, Midnight Surf.
Bruise Brothers Wall was a nice way to end a trip among friends. A place where everyone can find something to climb, a beautiful face and a weather which smiled on us for a bit, at least till the end of the afternoon. Yusuf and Yoli hung on their harnesses for hours, while we tried to be the cool models! Yusuf might something to say about our fashion color choices!
The truth is these guys did a great job. It was also really great to see Yusuf having so much fun exploring his photographic eye.

Yoli was shooting like a machine gun. You'll see what I mean if you look at all the Picassa albums I've linked to that post (and I did not put them all.. or I'll run out of space!)!
We moved on to the Boneyard and the boys to Midnightsurf. Angie climbed Armed Insurection an 11a with tricky delicate bouldering start. She did great on it after working and unlocking the start. Her first lead-on 11 outside! Great job Angie. Josh and Catherine got on Cinderella a 9 with a tricky start, and Josh went on to clean the 11a, while I lead on another 11a Captain Blondie sinks the ship, with a left hanging pumpfest overhanging face. Great route which gave me the occasion to take a big whipper!
The boys (Yusuf, Joe, Ljohn and Calvin) went to "play a serious pumpy wall at Midnight Surf' Inniquity. Ljohn almost flashed it in his stylish fashion, and Joe sent it second go. Animal! Yusuf was doing his harness hanging-taking photo thing. Here they are.
Here are some picts of that day.

Great days in a great place, great friends.

Help Save Draper's Bluff - and Reopen Illinois Climbing on Private Land!!

2010-04-30T10:51:00.003-05:00

Please go to this link:

http://www.ilclimbers.org/2010/04/21/drapers-bluff-access/

Do your part to reopen Illinois climbing access!! You can take action (as described) whether you are in-state or out-of-state. Let's reopen one of the best crags in the Midwest!

Here's a link to the proposed language.

I just wrote my letters. Here's some modified text of what I used (the proposed letter language had a couple typos):

Dear Senator Forby,

Although I am not an Illinois resident, I frequently travel to your area for rocking climbing as well as other outdoor activities. I truly appreciate the beautiful natural areas your region has to offer and I was very disappointed when I heard about the closure of one your area’s best climbing destinations because the law that had protected private owners no longer made it legally and financially feasible for them to allow the general public onto their land.

Responsible landowners have changed their access policies and restricted all access for fear of civil liability from recreational use of their land.

While I may not be an Illinois resident, I would like to think that my frequent travel, dining and lodging have had a positive impact on your area and I strongly urge you to vote in support of HB6072 so that I, and others like myself, will find reasons for visiting your state even more frequently. There is a large St. Louis outdoor recreational user group that has ceased visiting Southern Illinois and we would immediately resume our trips if this bill were to pass. Please support it!

Sincerely,

Calvin Hwang
St. Louis, Missouri

Quick Updates

2010-04-28T23:03:00.000-05:00

Well, haven't been posting much these days. We've been out climbing; most recently to the Red (twice) and are eyeing trips to Jackson too. I'll get to those posts after this Friday, when I have a comprehensive picture log to upload.

In the meantime, I've added another couple of blogs to the links on the right. Keep an eye on our friend Yusuf's blog. He's a good writer and I think there'll be good things to come reading his reflections as he stays at the Red and pursues his dream of climbing well, improving his life and bettering himself.

New shool meets old school

2010-04-10T10:31:00.000-05:00

This is a cool little video put up by Sender Films and Evolv.

Girl Power

2010-04-04T15:32:00.008-05:00

Climbers:
Jamie, Angie, Sophie

Beautiful Friday for a girl climbing day. Angie had this brilliant idea: "Don't you guys want to take the Friday off? I am not working!"
Twist my arm.... Sunny and 70s in the forecast. What more could we ask for? Well a few more girls like Meghan (off with the little one), Yoli (off ....climbing at the RED), or Katie (tending her patients at the hospital)... next time ladies.

6:30 am and we are off. This will be Jaimie's second time only climbing outside on a rope (not that would scare her or anything).
We headed for the Monument to warm-up on the 8 Stubborn Swede (yes the one that definitely will help you put your "outside-head" on with that nice long run-out at the end. Angie leads it on. Great I have two rope-guns with me!
From now on Angie and Jaimie will be trading putting the routes on. I am the cleaner!
"Sof since the route angles a bit You are going to get the draws on the way up right?" Angie asks me as I am the last one to lead it.
"He he no Angie I won't, think about it...".
Angie looked at me: Right Hu hum...
We all started to laugh really hard.
:)
Here are the girls getting their tiger out.

After warming up there we headed to the 3 short 9 after the Court house. I believe we climbed "Katie did" with which the girls had no problem at all, and for some reason was the occasion of a "moment" for me! My "outside head" is not quite screwed on tight. We moved on to Gully gee Whiz a beautiful 10b small gully which I had not climbed in a long time. Jaimie lead it up and worked it beautifully. It will be a send next time. Same thing for Angie who styled the move. I fully enjoyed climbing that line again, and it seemed my head was back in place.
here is Angie on that line.

As you can see Angie treats her sunglasses with the same respect I do when she finds out she forgets to take them off. Yes this is why we buy VERY cheap ones! (Yet I might change my attitude as I started my day finding a pair of Oakley. Hoo hoo!)
We moved on to the Courthouse a really fun 10c where the pump creeps up on you for a final crux right under the anchor. I was the rope gun this time and took a fall just before the anchors.. oh well still a super fun climb. Jaimie really styled it and was so close to the flash. Angie worked the last moves in determined fashion, with an inspiring push-through and "stick" after a couple of tries and Jaimie and I cheering. A great moment. Here she is.
We came back to the monument to meet up with quite a crew from Saint Louis, and I directed the girls to a climb I had been wanting to lead up since last time I was here. Lothorien is a tricky 10 a slabbish mixed route. 3 or 4 bolt and then it is down to cams. I had not placed gear in a good year and 1/2. Time to get that trad head back on! the middle part of that route is an extremely delicate slab with very tiny shallow features for the hands. No send for me but I was pretty happy to have gone through the whole thing in just a couple of falls.
Here I am about to step into the blankness!
We finished on the classic Cherrio Bowl which Jaimie and Angie climbed beautifully.

More picts. of the day here.

FA ethics - FRFM and Sharma

2010-03-31T09:48:00.002-05:00

Intriguing discussion about FRFM, Sharma's current project in Spain. You've probably seen it in Big UP (Progression, King Lines). Sharma's apparently close. Nalle Hukkataival, a Finnish powerhouse boulderer, apparently traveled to Spain specifically to try the project and touched off an interweb ~~firestorm~~ dicussion when he mentioned that he basically, "wasn't allowed to try it."

See Nalle's post here (read the comments). Sharma actually wrote a long explanation here. Finally, Nalle has also responded on Bjornpohl's site.

I enjoyed both perspectives. Personally, I think the bolter deserves some time to try for the FA, but the gray area is "within reason." How long exactly the bolter/setter/opener/cleaner is allowed to try for the FA is a good question. Shades of Girl Talk in CO with Dave Graham and of course many minor disputes at local crags. I do think Nalle has a valid point that if Sharma's asking for more time but is letting a couple buddies try it with him, how is Nalle not supposed to feel strangely excluded? Perhaps Sharma felt Nalle had a legit chance of sending it and not Andrada and Graham? Or maybe he didn't mind an old buddy snagging it, which is different from allowing another top climber to snag the glory. Sharma made good points too.

By the way, the climbing media seems to be pumping up some sort of rivalry/bad blood situation, but I don't think that's the case. Everyone chill!

Banff World Tour Film Fest

2010-03-26T08:48:00.000-05:00

Is coming to town next week at the Science Center Omnimax! We're headed there on Wed/Thurs. Here's the preview (check out the last 20 sec if you don't have time for the whole thing - I think it's CG enhanced, or I hope it is. Unreal.). I'm pretty excited to see Honnold's solo of Half-Dome. I haven't had a chance to see it yet.

The Wednesday lineup of movies:
Wednesday, March 31 Schedule:

Deep/Shinsetsu -
Focus: Skiing
Description: Set to the music of indie-folk artist, José Gonzales, Deep/Shinsetsu captures in three minutes the essence of Japan’s bottomless powder skiing.

Finding Farley - WINNER OF GRAND PRIZE & PEOPLE'S CHOICE AWARDS
Focus: Adventure, Canoeing, Family-friendly (note: some nudity)
Description: When filmmakers Karsten Heuer and Leanne Allison, along with their two-year-old son Zev and indomitable dog Willow, set out to retrace the literary footsteps of Farley Mowat, they meant it literally. Finding Farley ended up being a 5000-kilometre trip -- trekking, sailing, portaging and paddling from the Prairies to the Maritimes. The family's arrival at their final destination (Mowat's Nova Scotian summer home) was, as Karsten says, "an affirmation of what the land and animals had already told us". "Stories aren't so much written or created as they are released, expressing what's been there all along."

First Ascent - Alone on the Wall
Focus: Climbing, Free solo climbing
Description: New from renowned climbing filmmakers, Sender Films, First Ascent: Alone on the Wall follows 24-year-old Alex Honnold as he readies himself for an unbelievable challenge: the first free-solo of the ‘Regular Northwest Face’ route (VI, 5.12a, 23 pitches) on Yosemite’s Half Dome.

Kranked – Revolve - PEOPLE'S CHOICE AWARD RADICAL REELS NIGHT
Focus: Mountain Biking
Description: Kranked – Revolve is a high-adrenaline mountain bike journey from the insane Megavalanche race in the French Alps to the lush coast of British Columbia, incorporating dirt jump, trail, freeride, slopestyle and downhill riding.

MedeoZ
Focus: Multi-sport, Humor, Family-friendly
Description: Filmed and edited in just five days at the 2008 Nissan Outdoor Games in Chamonix, MedeoZ is the story of a photographer’s mission to capture six mountain sports in a single shot. As the world class climber, skier, snowboarder, speed rider, paraglider, and BASE jumper race to meet one another, Guillaume Broust readies himself for the perfect moment to close the shutter.

Mont-Blanc Speed Flying
Focus: Speed riding, Family-friendly
Description: An excerpt from the sequel to the 1980s cult ski film Apocalypse Snow, Mont-Blanc Speed Flying is a breathtaking continuous shot that follows a group of six speed riders from the upper slopes of Mont Blanc down to Chamonix.

Jackson Falls - Day Trip, March 20, 2010

2010-03-25T22:37:00.003-05:00

From Jackson Falls 3-20-10

Climbers - Craig, Calvin, Sophie, Meghan, Yoli & Christian
Weather - Cool and partly sunny

"It's the Tiger! The Tiger got me!"
"Why'd you fall? I thought you might flash it."
"Tiger Claw! My right arm was gone, the Tiger took it. I couldn't feel my hand."

--snippets of conversation after Christian came down from Detox Mtn and here's a pic of what prompted the conversation:

From Jackson Falls 3-20-10

Beautiful day of climbing. Congrats are due for Meg for flashing Cheerio Bowl, .10a at Pricker Peak. Craig got Detox Mountain, .12a second go and almost sent Cowboys and Crossdressers .12a five different times. Boy's got some endurance!

Craig and I hopped down Friday night and camped. Very enjoyable to get back outdoors. The only part marring our experience was finally getting past some stoned guy walking in the middle of the freeway by I-64 where it splits from I-55/70; he was forcing cars to go 5 mph around him.

Soph and Meg arrived early the next morning and Yoli and Christian had also arrived the night before (I missed seeing them though). We headed down to the Monument and started climbing from left to right Stubborn Swede 5.8, Unclaimed 5.9 (tricky) and finally Lothlorien .10a (very tricky but really cool). Props to Soph for getting on Lothlorien and sending it on TR. There are a couple of heady moves and she solved them all quickly. Soph on Lothlorien .10a:

From Jackson Falls 3-20-10

Afterwards, we alternated on Cheerio Bowl, classic .10a, then headed over to Detox, with Craig putting the draws on that. To the right is The Farmer, .12a and I put the draws on that. TF has a fun layback flake for about 4 bolts, then a nice rest before a crimpy and powerful crux (the way I did it). Craig honed beta and sent Detox second go, and I was able to manage an ugly send second go on TF. Later I found out that Yoli did a nice job finding new beta making it sound easier (or I think she's just a really good climber) and Christian almost flashed it - skipping the last bolt and falling at the anchors. Yoli on Unclaimed 5.9:

From Jackson Falls 3-20-10

Christian is probably twice as big as Yoli, so his whipper, which I didn't see, took him below the first bolt. Big ride!

Meg, Yoli and Soph and took turns on Detox, while Yoli also tried The Farmer. That's when Craig and I headed over to Cowboys. Meg and Soph eventually joined and worked Southern Inquisition, .10b. SI is another climb I tried 4-5 years ago with Thom and didn't send, so it was nice to get back on it at the end of the day and get to enjoy each sequence - overhang to bulge to an enjoyable slab move or three. Very nice.

It was getting late, so Yoli, Christian, Meg and Soph all headed back, while Craig and I headed over to Lovely Tower to hit my nemesis, Lovely Arete, .11a. I watched Dave (last name?), an older guy just smoke it on TR, and got some interesting beta. Beta or not, I think there's an unavoidable thuggy move in the middle. This time I took a deep breath, committed, and got the darn send. Craig worked it a couple times and we called it a day.

Here are some extra pics.

Vid - The Hobbit V5

2010-03-13T11:45:00.000-06:00

So it's a dreary weather day. Some people have probably just finished running in the St. Patrick's Day 5 mile run downtown in St. Louis, while I just got back from Costco. :) I'd much rather be out climbing, but everything is sopping wet.

I noticed this vid a while ago - it's one of the better climbing videos I've seen of someone just trying a project over and over and going through the process of attempting to send. It's good. Check it out.

http://deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/hobbit-v5-rocktown

RETURN TO THE FALLS - SAT March 6

2010-03-09T15:47:00.004-06:00

Climbers:
Katie, Tony, Sophie
and a little later, Christian and Yoli.

Ah yes it was a return indeed. It had been a while for all of us. For me I had not seen the Falls since I had to take a forced 5 months break from climbing last July. I believe it was the same for Tony who plunged into nursing school at the beginning of the fall with very little respite. And for Katie (we met her and her husband Scott at the gym a while ago. Great people) it was just her second time there.

The earliest we could leave town we would and indeed we were on the road a bit after 6:00 am. Perfect day, not a cloud a sky. A true celebration for our (great!) comeback!
At the Cheerio Bowl by 9:30 or so, we ignored Tony's wining (He He) that it was not sunny enough there and gave him the sharp end to put the draws on the classic 10a. Half way through, where one can take a break in the "bowl" we could hear him blow air in his frozen hands.
"Give me a minute Sof. Cannot feel my fingers"
"Oh yeah by the way I brought some hand warmers" I remembered.
And Katie gets them out my bag and proceed to put one in my chalk bag and one in hers... with Tony perched and frozen looking on.
"You guys are sweet and oh so helpful"
:)

I lead it after Tony and had to hang in the first 1/3 my hands turning into wood.
Did I see a smirk on Tony's face?

Katie decided she was not going to have any of that freezing craziness, and we moved on to the sunny side, towards Kill Bill (10a exposed slab) and a 10b we had never climbed: Southern Inquisition.
Katie decided to lead up Kill Bill and did fantastic till the 4th draw where she thought that was A LOT of scary slab exposure for a "warm-up". She had been quite impressive through that first half. She backed out deciding to return to it later.

I tried to lead up Southern Inquisition, a really fun 10b but oh so exposed, with a hang start. Powerful moves at the start on good holds lead me to a point where I felt all the outdoor exposure demons come upon me. I backed out. Tony sent it and Katie followed suit on TR. I went back to it later on to lead it again and finished it.
Yes indeed I had to get my "outdoor'head" back on.

Tony moved on to Space Cowboy, a beautiful 12a line, and worked it trying to remember a pretty subtile beta. It will go next time.
Yoli and Christian hooked up with us and Christian cleaned it on TR. Great work to both of the guys.

In the meantime Katie was exploring, climbing away all she could put her feet and hands on (Possum Grits 9+, Whee Dodgies 8, adn Katie did (ha ha) 9...)

Tony convinced me to get back on my nemesis in that area, a route which has stumped me for the past 3 years or so: Condor, an 11c which starts casually to "hit" you with a mean reachy exposed move towards the top. YUP it was not to be that day. Same story. I tried and tried. Even went back to it on TR after Tony sent it .... Nope. I got one more move, but to no avail. Katie got on it as well on TR and got spitted out in the same spot. And yes Tony did make a few noises going through that sequence. His girly voice might have come to the surface!

We finished a beautiful day with Courthouse, a great 10c where the crux is right at the end. Katie almost flashed it. She fells once a the last move. She'll crush it next time.

What a great day it was. The top of the cliffs were skirted with ice falls and long icicles were dripping all day. I had forgotten my camera, and really regretted it. The ice formations were spectacular (and the dog walk descent had turned into an ice climbing wall! FUN!).
We all felt blessed to be out there enjoying the great things Nature can offer us.

Batteries recharged!

Sof

Jackson Falls - March 7, 2010

2010-03-08T13:23:00.001-06:00

Climbers - Yusuf, Dane, Meg, Angie & Calvin
Weather - overcast/sunny, schizophrenic but good

Update - Here are some pics.

The weather couldn't decide on overcast, sprinkles or outright sun, but the warmth more than made up for it.

In other news, a shout-out to Dane for sending Hidden Treasure, his first outdoor .12a send on a quick Friday trip to the Falls with Yusuf. Nice job!!

We warmed up at Spleef again, this time doing a few routes and catching up with some folks there from the gym as well as the Chancellors. It was a busy day at the Falls. Meg got on Master Marley, .10a, and sent it cleanly on lead. Congrats to Meg on her first clean, outdoor send, and a .10a at that!

From Jackson Falls 3-7-10

We then headed over to BattleAxe Tower and got on The Sophomore, 5.9, and met a nice couple from Urbana, IL, Kevin and his gf (didn't catch her name). They are graduating in May and are going to guide in WVA - look for them in Fayetteville.

Meanwhile, Yusuf hopped on this hard looking thing to the right of Void Warrior (.11d?), which probably goes at solid .12. It's relatively newly bolted and not in the book. The crux move involves a nice 3 finger pocket sidepull, setting your feet and launching to a right-handed pocket. I captured some pics and will post those later. From there, you definitely have some more work to do for a few more bolts. Dane also worked on it, but no sends.

From Jackson Falls 3-7-10

I put the draws up on The Reckoning, .11d, and although it felt easier than the time I tried it a couple of years ago, it still felt hard. Rumor has it that it was rated .12a until Schmick (FA) climbed it in his tennies and declared that no .12a could be .12a if he climbed it in his tennies. Bastard. :)

I wanted to rest, so we walked over to Beaver Wall, with Meg and Ang hoping to climb the 5.8 to the left of Flinging Hog and then FH, .11a. Alas, both were taken. I'd like to mention that the 5.8 was taken by a guy who cut in front of us and then said he had 3 friends waiting to climb it. This guy then waiting 25 effing minutes before his friends showed up. Ridiculous, rude and completely asinine! Meg & Ang ended up on Chimichanga, 5.8, but apparently it's not that enjoyable.

We headed back over to The Reckoning, which I sent with some effort (blowing air like a lathered horse being run to death) and offered Dane a belay. Dane asked for a little beta, then promptly flashed the route! Hiked the damn thing looking like he was strolling through the park. Congrats dude, major accomplishment! And just after climbing his first outdoor .12a too! I'm thinking Dane has lots of upwards potential. :)

Meg/Yusuf/Dane had to head out early around 2:30pm, so Ang and I walked back to the Gallery after packing up and got on Earthbound Misfits, .10a. Angie decided to put the draws up, then came down, rested a bit, and fired it next go. Nice job!! Ang displayed a strong lead head, resting above bolts, pulling the crux, and shaking out at the last bolt for several minutes trying to remember beta before successfully topping out. Very impressive.

I finished out the day climbing EM and Psychotherapy a couple times to work some pump, then we headed home. Super fun day.

Jackson Falls - Feb 28, 2010

2010-03-08T12:56:00.002-06:00

Climbers - Yusuf, Dane, Jen and Calvin
Weather - sunny and crisp

Team Saucisson is back outside! Rumor has it that Soph, Tony and some friends made it outside on Sat, so another TR should be up soon.

Last weekend on Feb 28, Yusuf, Dane, Jen and I were out at the Falls and had a great time. We climbed at Spleef, getting on some of the 5.9's and .10a moderates there (all slab, more slab) and wandered over to Big Starr Wall. On the way, Dane and Jen climbed Greg's Chicken Shack (name?) 5.6 or 5.7 slab. Yusuf put up Mary's Cookie's, 5.11d, which is the right-most climb at Big Starr, I think. MC is a fun climb, but very cruxy. It'd shut me down a couple years ago as I tried to thug my way past the crux and fell numerous times.

This time I benefited from Yusuf's beta (the slab-master), and sent it second go. MC has a heady second clip, which requires easier moves but blowing it would most certainly result in a deck from about 25 feet. Afterwards, you negotiate a nice couple of cruxes before doing a fun, but unsteady hand-foot match at the end and standing up without touching the wall. You don't really have to do that, but you do when the last 20+ feet are wet. Afterwards, Dane worked it on TR, Yusuf climbed Galaxy 5000 .12a/b and we headed to Lovely Tower. Yusuf and I climbed Fine Nine, and Dane worked Hidden Treasure, .12a, taking some nice whippers. Awesome. I screwed up Lovely Arete (again), .11a. I swear, climbing that thing when you're tired really sucks. Yusuf says it's one of the best, if not the best .11 in the Falls, but I have to disagree. :) And we called it a lovely day after it got dark.

Vid - The Raven V12

2010-03-08T11:23:00.000-06:00

From Vimeo, via the Narc's site:

This is a great vid, more for the climber's reaction than the actual climb, which looks like a one or two-move wonder. Priceless. You ever react like this after sending? I have. Sorta. :)

Untitled from Nicros Club-JA on Vimeo.

Bouldering Grades V15? - Updated with Vid

2010-03-01T12:17:00.001-06:00

There's an interesting discussion on Jamie Emerson's site about the validity of the V15 grade. Or, more accurately, how are we able to figure out if a combination of two problems, say V7 into V14, actually deserves V15? Read the comments, along with interesting input from Dave Graham, who has climbed Esperanza and considers it soft V14 at best.

Here's a link to the vid on Deadpointmag.

Nice video, but the level of photography (listen for the all shutters going off in the background) seemed a bit surreal. He's just climbing a rock, right?

I think the discussion is silly. Why? Because to translate it to something I know, bouldering at a very low level, I've never heard of people breaking down a V5 or V7 into 2 distinct parts of say, V3 into V4 = V5 or maybe V6. People just state their opinion and we're left with exactly that, an opinion. I understand it's more interesting to debate ground-breaking grades, but it's all a waste of time to me. Maybe you think differently though, and I can respect that.

Yesterday was a great day out at the Falls, I'll post something soon.

Vid - Leatherface V7 So Ill - Two Locals

2010-02-24T11:53:00.002-06:00

Nicely done video from our local guys Matt and Vishal. Humorous. I heard V sent soon after. Got this from Matt's vimeo page:

Leatherface from Matt Maisak on Vimeo.

Vid - Thoughtful Video of 2 German Ladies Climbing

2010-02-23T18:35:00.000-06:00

With subtitles! I first saw this several months ago, but saw it posted on video climb recently and thought you might enjoy it if you haven't already. It's about the fear of falling and focuses on climbing movement only to the extent that it provides a nice backdrop to the narrative. I hope you like it.

30 Meter | Aufwind from Sebastian Woeber on Vimeo.

Vid - Demencia Senil 9a+ - Iker Pou

2010-02-19T08:22:00.000-06:00

Hello again! I haven't been climbing much recently. Just started back up at the gym, hence the relative dearth in posting. I figure all the other sites do a much better job than I do.

Anyways, lots of news floating around the interwebs and you've probably already heard of the 2nd ascent of Sharma's Demencia Senil, 9a+ or .15a. Wunderkind Adam Ondra hurt a tendon working on this route.

This video shows you why. I think it does a better job of showing the entirety of the route than the Big UP production video (e.g. there's a nice footcam no-hands rest right before the crux), even if the production quality was a little lower. Enjoy if you haven't already!

IKER POU - DEMENCIA SENIL (MONTAJE 2.1) from jordi canyigueral on Vimeo.

More Health - Efficacy of Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) Therapy

2010-01-13T08:21:00.000-06:00

Here's a link to a couple of studies done on PRP, which is a therapy that harvests your own blood, isolates the platelets, then injects the platelet-rich plasma directly to the injury site. It's relevant to climbers because one of the studies was done on tennis elbow injuries. Unfortunately, the results are dubious and not substantially effective beyond the placebo effect.

Here's a quote, "Although 73 percent of patients given platelet injections improved after a year, compared with 54 percent for steroid injections, Dr. Fu said that was not much success. “Any time you touch a patient, you get 70 percent success,” he said, adding that even placebos give that rate over time."

Anyone try this?

Vid - Medial epicondylitis "Golfer's Elbow"

2010-01-12T13:59:00.003-06:00

I had a friend recently ask about treatments for tendinitis of the elbow. I sent him this post I wrote on it. He responded with an updated video for Golfer's Elbow which I'll embed here and in the original post. I'm glad he did because medial epicondylitis sounds like what I've been dealing with for a fairly long time. The pain isn't acute, but it's enough to make me notice.

Click on the previous post or search on Amazon.com to find the Therabar used in the video.

The Red, Stick-clipping and Climbing

2010-01-12T11:46:00.001-06:00

I saw a couple threads on people who have decked climbing the Return of Chris Synder .11d, at Roadside Crag. Both instances involved blowing the first clip. The first bolt is high (20 ft?) and apparently you start from a ledge, have a glassy foot to deal with and potential seeping holds. I haven't climbed it; anyone who has care to comment about the route? I've heard good things about the actual climbing.

Thread one & Thread two.

You'll see some discussion about risk and stick-clipping and an informal poll about adding bolts so the first isn't so high. Interesting that a couple route developers chimed in with cost adding to the decision to place the first bolt so high. Fair enough. I enjoy reading the back and forth that sometimes shines a little history about a route and other climbers from back in the day. Ok, maybe I just like reading in general.

BTW, here's a link to the owner's site for Roadside. Please read and respect the rules. I wasn't aware of the group size limitation before, though I don't think we usually have that problem. I am thankful these two folks got together to preserve one of the better climbing crags I've been to (notwithstanding how crowded it gets).

Vid - Holy Boulders

2010-01-07T10:10:00.000-06:00

Chad has done a great job compiling this short vid on 2 climbs we did on our recent trip to the Holies. Shadow of a Man v5 and attempts on Trillium, v7. That heel-toe cam was hard, but cool.

Shadow Of A Man from Chad Tenbroek on Vimeo.

Thanks Chad!!

Physical Therapy - Good, Bad, Voodoo or Real?

2010-01-07T10:08:00.000-06:00

So I'm sitting here looking out at 4 inches of snow, wishing I was outdoors climbing. At least I'm not at work today. It's a blustery day in St. Louis. Joey should also be arriving in town if he wasn't too badly delayed because of weather.

Here's an interesting article (albeit somewhat limited) on the effectiveness of some standard forms of treatment received during physical therapy. Targeted manipulation (Stretching) apparently has scientifically supported literature. Heat/cold packs, laser massage (?) is equated with voodoo. Maybe we can chalk that stuff up to the placebo effect. Still, good reading for those of us constantly contending with climbing injuries.

There're some good treatment posts from Dave Macleod (he of Scottish hard climbing) and Dave's got the degrees to support his articles. Still, I sometimes wonder how much this stuff really helps. I've consistently injured myself over the last several grades I've progressed on a rope - usually minor injuries - and I know most people have something tweaked. We're like NFL players; everyone is constantly playing partially hurt.

Vid - Fred Nicole

2009-12-28T12:50:00.000-06:00

From prana and Chuck Fryberger comes a short, thoughtful vid on the bouldering legend, Fred Nicole. For once, someone with even bigger forearms than that Sharma guy. More seriously, FN has been a bouldering pioneer with serious FA's all over the world for many, many years. Hopefully we'll see more like him someday.

I first saw this vid over at Jamie Emerson's site.

Jackson Falls/The Holies - Day Trip, Dec 2009

2009-12-27T18:21:00.001-06:00

So I'm looking at the weather for New Years weekend, and it sucks. Highs are only in the 20's. I've tried climbing in the low 30's and that was a challenge. I think climbing in 20 degree temps is not exactly ideal. Arkansas is the same as So Ill... but HP40 is in the low 40's, which might be good, but is further than we wanted to travel. Unsure what to do.

In other news, Joey K of Team Tuesday is headed up for a brief visit, so we're looking forward to his arrival and heading out for some local climbing while he's around.

Here's a video of Topher's send of Bagpiper V5 at the Falls. Bagpiper has the distinction of being the first boulder problem put up at the Falls (correct me anyone?) and is on the side of the Yosemite Slab Boulder. It's a bit tall at the top. I apologize for the grainy quality, but I didn't realize the camera was at such a low setting. Props to Topher for the only send of the day and for the novel way of warming up his fingers. ;)

From Jackson Falls bouldering 12-7-09

We messed around on THC V3, which Steve posted in the vid below, then worked on OBD V6, which seems quite difficult. I could do most of the moves and just need a little more work on the transition in the middle before topping out. Here are some pics.

The following weekend, which is last weekend (Dec 20), Steve, Topher, Chad and I headed to the Holies and did some climbing there. We variously repeated and worked on Shadow of a Man V5 and then tried Trillium (sp?) V7 while Topher and Steve worked Jungle Book V8.

I've posted about JB before, and it's a cool problem but my hamstring prevents me from even trying that. Trillium starts with two sloper-pinches and a shoulder level right-heel/toe cam. You bump your right had to a sloper, bump again to a small crimp, then set your left foot and pop your left hand to a decent crimp (couldn't do that move). Steve/Topher did that move nicely. With your right foot still wedged, you then pull hard and go right-handed to what looks like a pretty crappy sloper, then fight your way to the top. None of us managed to latch onto the sloper, so it remains a project. Tough moves and it's nice to have good spotters so you don't biff your head because your foot is stuck. I don't have pics, as the video we took came out pretty grainy. Maybe Steve can salvage something from it.

Finally - there's a trip to One Horse Gap we took a few weekends ago, but that was a rained out disaster. Gotta have one of those every now and then.

From One Horse Gap 12-14-09

While we couldn't climb much because everything was wet, it was impressive to see the amount of boulders and the sheer size of some of them at OHG. Some of the rock is chossy, but with some cleaning and some work, there are lots of problems to establish. Here are some pics from that trip - we ended up working on Drop Zone V6 for a while.

Happy Holidays

2009-12-25T10:03:00.000-06:00

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to all our friends and family as 2009 draws to a close. May the new year be full of new and wonderful climbing memories. Climb safe!

Vid - From Jackson Falls

2009-12-24T10:19:00.001-06:00

This is from a couple weekends ago. Big Steve Xu put together a quick video. Thanks Steve!

Forearms

2009-12-21T11:43:00.001-06:00

There's been a lot of info about Sharma's latest sends in Spain. Congrats. For your review, I post this picture (linked from pranablog). Anyone see anything wrong with this picture?

Also, I'll have a couple TR's posted soon on some recent bouldering trips. Yesterday was pretty friggin' cold.

Vid - Falls at the Red

2009-12-17T11:48:00.000-06:00

From Spencer Victory, prolific climbing vid producer. They call it climbing porn. :)

Vid - Paradise Lost, .13b

2009-12-15T18:09:00.000-06:00

From James Zanoni, a class project on a RRG classic:

Just Do It from James Zanoni on Vimeo.

Pretty cool. Here's the thread that led me to it.

NYTimes - performance is better later in the day?

2009-12-10T12:35:00.000-06:00

This NYtimes article is interesting; it seems to indicate that performance is higher and more efficient in the late afternoon/evening.

"And not only are performances better in the late afternoon and early evening, but, contrary to what exercise physiologists would predict, heart rates are also higher for the same effort."

It seems intuitive to me; that is, I definitely feel more sluggish in the morning than in the evening when working out.There are a couple variables: 1. it only really applies to people who work out regularly and 2. it's unclear if it applies to anaerobic activity (e.g. climbing).

Anyone have clear experience with this and notice that you tend to send harder later in the day? It might be difficult to assess this notion since people tend to climb all day on trips, making late day climbing just more tired climbing.

HCR - Thanksgiving Weekend 2009

2009-12-07T17:51:00.000-06:00

Climbers - Josh, Leigh, Morgan, John, Jaime, Conor, Angie & Calvin
Weather - Really, it's November

From

Thanksgiving weekend was a blast. We headed down on Friday morning early and met up with the Krefts and Wilsons to get some holiday climbing in. A 5am start landed us at HCR around 10:30am, and we were on the walls around 11am at the Cliffs of Insanity, by the Roman Wall. There, we climbed some warmups 5.6's and 5.8's with the Wilsons and their extended family visiting from Louisiana. After warming up a little, we headed over to Magoo Rock to sample some of the climbs we hadn't tried before.

Mad props to Jaime for flashing a 5.9+ and .10b on her first outdoor trip, both on lead. Also big props to Josh (aka Big Sexy Daddy, or "BSD") for flashing an .11a on Magoo. All the routes were great fun, although the .11a was more of a short crux; the .10b was more fun and required varied climbing using sidepulls and stemming.

Here's Angie on the 5.9+:

From HCR 11-28-09

We headed down to get comfy in a cabin with daylight failing around 4:45pm, had a couple beers with dinner (thanks again to the Wilson family!) and headed back out to do some nighttime bouldering at the South Idahos. Angie, Josh, John and I climbed on some V1 to V3's, including Crescent, which had thwarted me on the last trip. Topping out in the dark felt a little scary. :)

Day 2 was a bouldering day at the North Forty. We started by the Warmup boulder doing various problems before heading over to the Honeycomb boulder. This boulder has a series of good face problems with a decently high and slopey topout to make you thankful for spotters.

From HCR 11-28-09

At the HC boulder, the quote of the day is attributed to Jaime. John and Jaime worked on the left-most V3 (name?), figuring out beta and trading burns. After John got the send, Jaime immediately said, "Well, I'm not going to be shown up by my husband" and promptly threw down the problem. First V3 outdoors too! Nice job. :)

I sent a V4 two problems to the right of that problem on the same boulder, then looked towards the Leatherface boulder for a good try on the namesake problem, V7. I'd tried this several times on my last trip and felt reasonably sure I could get the send, but it was not to be. I ended up getting very close to making the last crux move and linked it from the middle a few different times, but couldn't pull it off. John & Jaime even tried to motivate me by telling me Big Steve Xu had crushed the problem (not going to let some kid show you up, are you?), but even that wasn't enough to get me up the boulder. Heh.

Around mid-day, we had to say good-bye to the Krefts. The Wilsons had left that morning to return to St. Louis because of a prior commitment, so it was just Angie and I. Angie was saving skin for the next day and I was wrecked, so we called it an early day.

We awoke to a gloomy Day 3 and hurriedly packed the car fearing rain would shorten our day. Angie had never done the routes at the North 40, so we had a good time running up a 5.7, 5.8, another 5.8 and a 5.10a to the left of Crimp Scampi (name eludes me). Angie did a great job with the send of the .10a second go. I had spied a V5/5.12a/b 30 foot route on the backside of the Warmup Boulder and took a recon burn on that. The V5 has apparently been solo'd several times by intrepid boulderers, but it's a full 35 feet tall with the crux at the very top. I fell at the very end on my second go (roped up), and that would be a very scary move to pull that high up. The fall would almost certainly result in a hospital trip (or worse) because of a large tree directly in the fall zone.

We had to get back to St. Louis early, so we packed it up and called it a day. Nice weekend trip. Here are the rest of the pics.

A Conversation Between Thom and Calvin

2009-12-04T11:14:00.000-06:00

From the depths of the depraved mind we call Joey Kreidel (Team Tuesday)... note that Thommy is the one in the skirt. And I somehow have a mustache. Nevermind, it's all about the conversation, right?

The Spot - Vid from some locals

2009-12-03T13:54:00.000-06:00

Well, somewhat locals. Aaron's moved back to Cincy now. You may have seen this already, but here's some cool shots of Peter Hill and Aaron Schneider, a local strong kid sending V4-6 and working a V10 at the Spot, So Ill. Got this from Schneider's FB page.

The Roost - Nov 22, 2009 - UPDATED 12-4

2009-12-01T16:39:00.000-06:00

Climbers - Topher, Chad, Dave & Calvin
Weather - is it really November?

Here are the rest of the pics. See the new video below. Sorry, no vid of the send - I missed it.

A couple of weeks ago, we headed down to the Falls to do some bouldering at the Roost. I'd been hearing about this spot for a few years, but never got the chance to go. The Roost is a series of small cliff lines jutting out, with few stand alone boulders. This makes some of the topouts susceptible to runoff and dirt accumulation, but the climbing was very fun. I suspect a little cleaning will go a long way.

Warming up was a little hard; the easiest problem we tried was a V3 with a powerful pocket move, but we made do and had great fun. After warming up a little, we met Eric and Greg (or Graham?) - Eric we'd met on a prior trip to the Beach and Greg was cleaning a new problem to the left of the Oriole.

The Oriole V5 is a stand start off two good underclings, to a decent sloper-pinch and a fun topout. The first move is the crux, then it eases considerably. Hard to grade such problems, but V5 sounds good to me. Eric was working on the sit-start that Jason Kehl had put up a while ago. The sit goes at V9 (apparently) and involves falling into an awkward sidepull pinch, pulling through and standing into the right undercling that is the standstart of Oriole.

Here's a vid of Chad working and sending Oriole (nice job!):

The Oriole V5/3 from Chad Tenbroek on Vimeo.

Afterwards, we climbed Cold Turkey V2?, the new problem Greg had just cleaned and climbed and moved to the right into Redneck Swing V5. Not in the book, and not sure if that's the real name, but we have some video to post of it so if you know the real name, let me know. Here's the vid:

Redneck Swing (Really Harvest Swing) V5 from Calvin Hwang on Vimeo.

We got excited about trying Eternal Sunshine V8/9 after that. ES has a really stout side-pull start leading into decent slopers, heel-hooking and using these uber-fun undercling pinches. The crux is falling into the last undercling pinch and controlling the swing into a long move out right. Then topping out is no easy matter either. I couldn't pull the crux at all. Topher did a good job launching for the hold, but no dice.

We finished out the day on a V4 that is the stoutest V4 I've worked in a while. Name anyone? Definitely hard to do at the end of the day, but quality.

I left thinking it was too bad some of the topouts were so dirty, but that also made me think I could contribute a bit of time helping to keep some of the boulders cleaner. I sometimes take climbs for granted and it was good to see the amount of work necessary to make climbing good problems a reality for others. More pics to come.

Last weekend was a trip to HCR; I'll post pics and a TR later.

FIRST FLIGHT

2009-11-29T15:36:00.000-06:00

Aeropostale Part 2

A pretty awful story greeted my return to the Southwest of France. After more than 4 hours of train ride, we were 5 minutes from entering Agen's train station, my final destination when we heard a very loud noise as if the train had rolled over rocks. Then the train halted right away. Long story short.... "accident corporel". A very "litterary" way to tell us someone had thrown him/herself under the train. Oh gosh. In hindsight thinking we actually rolled over someone. YUK. We remained at standstill for two hours. I do not have to draw you a picture what the police and firemen were busy doing..... Thanks god it was dark.. Did not have really desire to look out! Sad story.

On a happier note....
While all of you were eating, no doubt, some most excellent turkey and other pecan pies, I spent the day going through a most interesting media marathon. Yes a new one for me.
8 in the morning, Yves (the writer) and I are at a local radio station for a speedy 10 minute interview live. I drove from my parents house about 80 miles from Toulouse that very morning so by the time I get to Yves' house I have had 3 or 4 cups of coffee and little food. I'll let Yves do most of the talking on the interview trying to mute my gargling stomach! Great on live radio. Fine timing! That will teach me to think an overdose of coffee was a good idea!

As we exit from the studio, Yves rushes to a boulangerie thinking he definitely needs to help me adjust my diet! Sweet! One pain au chocolat and all is well.
Then it is on to the newspaper (where one of my brothers happens to work). Interview for an article which came out today, and lunch with my bro and his wife.

An hour and it is on to a small airfield where the official launch of the book will take place towards the end of the afternoon,
which is spent talking to different medias, "playing pilots" in the beautiful replica of a Breguet 14, the only flying replica of that plane specially flown to Toulouse for that event. Judge for yuorself. yes getting in the plane is a V2 in itself, which I am proud to say I sent in a skirt! :)

Being in that cockpit is quite an amazing sensation which gives me a bit more of the measure of these pilots "madness". Once sitting in position, you are so deep in that you barely see anything, not to mention the fairly bare look of the mechanics surrounding you!
Yes Burke I am pretty sure the cabin is a bit different on the MD80! Would you dare?

I did the following day, invited to take a stroll! Unbelievable, and exhilarating to think I was flying on a machine held by a few cables and stretched plastified fabric! Any little wind gust was quite effective in giving you a bit of a thrill.
Suddenly the pilot's hand rose up holding a camera pointed back at me. Hummm he is taking photos, who is holding the stick? As far as I know 1914-18 planes had no automatic pilots! Great! I do not have these pict yet but I am sure they will look delightful since these leather pilot hats and goggles look so fashionable! He He.

I did not have th chance to fly the day of the event as the night came quickly and Yves and I started a marathon of book signing. About 115 books within a couple of hours or more I do not know.
I know the cold came as we were in the hanger and I drew the last ones with freezing hands. Ah the road to glory is a hard one!

And this what happens when exhaustion takes over...a blurr

The evening ended in a restaurant (but of course!) with some most delicious French food. Yup. Life is hard.
Tomorrow I leave my parent's house for Paris for another crazy week (I'll be back in Toulouse in 2 days...back in Paris in 5)

ONCE APON A TIME IN PARIS

2009-11-21T09:46:00.000-06:00

One member of Team Saucisson leaves the rope in the ropebag for a bit (no no not too long I hope) and embarks in a new kind of adventure:

Aéropostale, chapter 1.
Yesterday night was the first event organized for the launching of my book, my first step in a totally unknown (to me) world of book tour and speed signing, yes an adventure indeed.
The location: Avenue Marceau, 2 minutes from the Arc de Triomphe in a beautiful old Hotel Particulier which was the very location for the office of Pierre George Latécoère, founder of the Aéropostale airline in 1918, of which the book tells the story.

Weather...beautiful. No one told me the Indian summer is lingering here. Yes my down jacket is a bit too cozy!
I arrived early to make sure I would see the book before people started to come in. Indeed this was to be my first look at it...the downside of living so far away!
Emotionnal moment. The real pleasure and pride to see these months of hard and passionate work find their conclusion in something beautiful.
My brother in law Gilles is already there. Then people start pouring in. In 5 minutes...I have the time to see a few pages and Philippe the editor takes me around to shake hands. Smiles....people telling "how beautiful..." more smiles more hand shaking...compliments.... my head is already spinning. I am floating in a semi state of conscious foggy euphoria. The jetlag is kicking in a bit. Nothing a glass of wine will not cure.

After Philippe Terrancle, the editor introduces us and the host of the night, PG Latécoère's grand-son's wife, Yves (the writer) gives a little speech and hand it to me...to talk to the crowd. Oh great. Now it is the time to embarrass yourself Sof, Sweaty palms. Words come out of my mouth..... Do not ask to tell you what I said, no clue. Wonder if few words in English slipped out. People smile, applaud. Good they must have understood most of it!
After mingling a bit more with dear cousins, nephews, sister...friends and total strangers who keep smiling at me, it is time to get busy. Yves and I are invited to sit at a table and the signing saga starts. I do not know how many books came under our pens, that part is a total blur! Finding the words, trying not to repeat yourself too much. Attempting wit or pseudo poetry...and then the first person who comes asks for a little drawing, Ah the trap! Because of course as soon as I did it for one.....the rest of the guests in line want one too.

Jean-Michel, Cecile and Hubert, friends from Art School (...back in the eighties...)

And here I went drawing the little Breguet 14 (the bi-plane which was one of the main airplanes used by the Aéropostale). By the end I was on automatic pilot (ah ah Burke will relate). It was like I was watching my arm draw. My brain was not involved anymore. And my hand was cramping. (Great so I get a tendonitis on my left elbow because of climbing, now a "signing elbow" is looming for the right arm...he he.
And this was the "un-official launch" of the book! The 26 is the actual date of the book release in the bookstores, and the date of a special event in Toulouse with an actual Breguet 14 rebuilt as it was in the 20s. I am "bracing" myself.
26 of November. Thanksgiving day.... A good omen.
Happy Thanksgiving to all of you. I do have a LOT to be thankful for. Indeed.
Till Chapter 2....

Joe Kreidel on Righteous Beast - Tucson

2009-11-20T16:07:00.000-06:00

From Team Tuesday - go check out their site!

AEROPOSTALE

2009-11-19T12:03:00.000-06:00

Thanks Calvin for the promo!
I made it to Paris and will make sure to update the blog with the stories from the the homeland.
To give a bit more precisions about the book, AEROPOSTALE, les carnets de vol de Léopold, iy recounts the story of the first airmail airline which was launched in 1918 by PG Latécoère, and for which the famous Antoine de St. Exupéry, the author of "the little prince" flew. Yves Marc, a jopurnalist/writer tell the story, I give you the images.... More to come. Here is the cover

Other News - Sophie in Paris

2009-11-19T09:36:00.000-06:00

In other, related news, Team Saucisson member Sophie is in Paris for a book opening tour. Sophie is a gifted artist who has recently done the art and design work for a book recounting the start of air travel in France. I've implored her to start posting on the blog so we can enjoy news from the Continent.

Jackson Falls - Nov 15, 2009

2009-11-16T14:10:00.000-06:00

Climbers - Angie & Calvin
Weather - a little warm

In other news - found out that St. Louis local Zavi was elected to the ICA (Illinois Climbers Association) board. Also, that starting Dec 1, the rope ladder is going to be removed and bolts installed to create a 5.7 route. The rope ladder by Lovely Tower will stay, which isn't that far from the current rope ladder, so it's not that big of a loss.

Also, news is that a new bill has being introduced to reclassify "recreational use" in the recreational land-use statute in Illinois, hopefully leading to the re-opening of Draper's Bluff in the not too distant future. Please contact your Illinois representatives if you're on that side of the border!!!

I don't think chopping the rope ladder is that great of an idea. But, to be fair, there aren't that many "easy" routes at JF and rumor has it that the Forest Service wasn't happy about the rope ladder because of safety concerns (which doesn't explain the Lovely Tower one staying, but whatever).

On to the Climbing
Angie and I headed out to Jackson to enjoy the weather and do a little climbing. I was planning to set at the gym, but found out we have a charity event lasting most of the night so that idea was nixed.

We started out slow and got to the Falls a bit late around 10:30am. We decided to head over to Cheerio Bowl and met Jon Richards, Jeff, Zavi and (Z's girlfriend? wife?) over there. Angie led Stubborn Swede, 5.8 at the Monument. It's got some nice slabby climbing at the top, very fun. Afterwards, Jon loaned me a couple cams and I put up Unclaimed, 5.9 (mixed). Unclaimed seems hard for the grade, with a couple moves requiring pull-ups and tough smearing, but with rewarding slab climbing at the end. Running it out isn't recommended, but I've runout the top before. Spicy.

In the meantime, Jon tried Space Cowboy, .12b a couple times and Z redpointed Detox Mountain, .12a. nice job! Described as a "tendon-friendly" route, DM is a classic enduro-climb, with good holds most of the way and no real definitive crux (unless you're really short). I hadn't been on this route in 2.5 years or so and didn't really remember the beta, but I sent it hanging the draws. It was getting somewhat damp and my foot skated off between bolts 3 and 4, eliciting a giggle (you know, the "wow, I should have fallen, glad I didn't" chuckle). I also completely missed another hold and re-fired just in time... all in all, a pretty ugly ascent.

Afterwards, Angie worked on a .10c (name?) right before the Town Square wall. Soph, we've climbed this before... it's before we get to that short wall of three 5.9's and one 5.10b across... Angie got to the last bolt but didn't pull the crux. She's psyched about the climb and has added to the project list. The best news is that her finger seems almost completely healed.

At this point, it was around 4pm, so we started hiking out. I looked for Iniquity, .12a, which is to the right of Aggro-Sheen, but when we finally located it, we saw that a tree had fallen directly over it. I'm not sure what the solution is, but it looks like you'd have to rap in with a chain saw and cut the tree away (it's a pretty big tree). Until then, no climbing.

That made me opt for Hidden Treasure, .12a at Lovely Tower. I think this is a really good climb. Fun opening moves, with good rests lead into a sustained, crimpy crux of about 15 feet. I worked the sequence a couple times and felt confident and came down to rest. Of course, I forgot how fast the light fails around 4:45pm these days... and started getting nervous 2 minutes later when darkness literally fell around us. I hurried up and tried to climb it but one-fell it. I actually felt nervous about even finishing it because it was getting dark enough I though I'd have to pull out the headlamp to see the holds. They're definitely small and a bit tough to use. I felt thankful just to get my draws back (although I was probably being a little paranoid) and we called it a day.

Very nice way to spend the day. Hope your weekend was great!

Panther Peak Bouldering - Team Tuesday, Tucson, AZ

2009-11-14T08:56:00.000-06:00

In news from Team Tuesday and Chris Prewitt, a new area is going up around Tucson. It's relatively close, with a decent hike (45min?), but with lots of good potential. Given the paucity of good bouldering close to Tucson, this seems like a great find.

Check out Team Tuesday and a new site about Tucson bouldering put up by these guys (under construction). They've also opened up information on mountainproject.com.

Good luck with the discoveries, cleaning and rewarding FA's!

NIAD - Nose in a Day

2009-11-12T17:33:00.000-06:00

By Mark Hudon, age 54, and apparently quite the climber back in the day.

Read this excellent TR if you have a few min.

The Red, November 6 - 8, 2009 (UPDATE - Day 3)

2009-11-09T21:58:00.000-06:00

Climbers - Yusuf, Little John, Calvin
Weather - Crisp, Clear and Cold... and then a bit warm

It was a weekend of fun tries. Sometimes, you don't send. John and I drove down to meet Yusuf at the Red. Yusuf had already been there for several days and had already sent Tuskan Raider .12d at The Dark Side. We got there at 2am Friday morning, setup our tent and quickly crashed for the night. A few minutes later, I heard a car approach; little did I know it was Yoli and Christian, freshly married and returned from a honeymoon/wedding in Hawaii. Congrats!

Day 1 was Friday. We awoke to a brilliant blue sky, but very cold temps. We ate breakfast quickly and headed to the Sanctuary in Muir Valley. John's project was Jesus Wept, .12d, a brilliant climb starting on a slight overhang and moving into precision vertical climbing at the crux.

Yusuf started with a beta run on Prometheus Unbound, .13a, one of his mini-goals for his trip. PU starts to the left of JW, but looks heinous, with a variety of difficult pockets, sidepulls and devious cruxes. After sussing beta, Yusuf lowered and John gave a strong attempt on JW. Our plan was for a beta run, but he felt good and progressed through the lower crux to the high crux that involves moving from a right two (or three) finger pocket, a left 1 pad crimp to stabbing to a right mono. Yusuf claimed you could stack your fingers into this mono, but I couldn't manage that. John fell at the high crux, but felt pretty good.

I then tried JW (what the eff, the draws are already there, I thought). The lower crux involves a good left-handed crimp, and a pretty small right-handed crimp, angled the wrong way (to the left). You step both feet pretty high, and swing through to a hard deadpoint to a good pocket with your right hand. If you're not careful, your feet cut, but it's a good hold. After this, it's moderate .11 climbing to a very good rest, then .10 climbing to the high crux. I basically climbed it bolt to bolt, and thought, this is a bit beyond me.

Yusuf then promptly sent PU, skipping a high bolt for some spicy climbing! Nice job dude. That inspired John and I, so we geared up for a strong burn. John fell at the high crux again, after looking very strong. I surprised myself by climbing almost to the high crux, then finishing the climb after a brief rest. 1-hang on my second try, I thought I might have a chance to send that day.

Well, I thought. John looked strong on his third try, but fell at the same spot. I fell at the low crux a few times, and knew I was out of gas. Yusuf then worked on Triple Sec, .13a (soft?) to the right of JW, and we called it a day.

Day 2 started as another brilliant day at Solar Collector, a popular winter crag. Solar is studded with massive huecos throughout the wall, which is really weird looking, but striking all the same. It's also gang-banged by all the climbers looking to warm up for the Gold Coast and Dark Side climbs. It was a bit too hot to be there, but we had a good time, starting with Super Pinch, .10d (hard?), and moving steadily to the right. Solar is home to some of the best .11's in the Gorge - see Ethics Police and Buddha Hole, .11d. Our intent was Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus, .12c, but I knew very early on that was out of the question. You know those days where your arms tell you ahead of time that you're not sending anything hard. No sir.

John and I both sent BH, which has some great climbing. Yusuf got a bit of beta on BEHJ, fell early by accident, lowered, and promptly sent. Nice. John then flashed Supafly, .12b (soft?), making it look like a stroll in the park. Very nice! I biffed somewhere in the middle, and struggled to finish, gasping for air.

We then headed to the Darkside for a bit of reconnaisance; John worked Tuskan Raider, and I decided I was recovered enough to try Mama Benson, .12a, something I'd tried a long time ago. The high crux is a couple of long moves to small crimps, and I predictably fell there. Still, it was fun to try. :)

Day 3 was our last day. Another fine start, with temps even warmer than before. Yusuf took a rest day in preparation for an assault on The Force, .13a for Monday. We headed to the Gallery to check out Mosaic, .12c. After warming up a bit, I gave it a recon burn and hung draws. The route starts with a small scramble, then a minor crux leading into an overhung but moderate, say .10+ section to the 5th bolt. You get a great rest here.

Moving out of this, you criss-cross left-right, from a good sidepull to a bad right hand, move up to some bad slopey crimps (clip), then move hard left to a very good finger-sized sidepull (left). It gets both delicate and powerful here: you have to grab a bad right hand hold to move your left hand up to the positive top of the sidepull, and stab to a good two-finger pocket. Good footwork really helps. From here, it's a hard clip, then two worse holds lead to some high stepping into a left-hand undercling, which is the so-called crux. I think everything from the 6th bolt to the end is one big red-point crux, with no super hard single move. It really burns your forearms to make it though. I made good progress and one-fell on my third try. John manned up and hiked it second go!

That was a common theme for the weekend; I struggled with endurance and power. John simply got stronger and stronger as the days went by. After encouraging me on my 3rd try, he hopped on the .11d left of Mosaic and flashed it as a parting gift to himself. Nicely done.

We got back late to St. Louis Sunday night, happy the weather was so great and thankful to be outdoors for another great fall weekend. I took away a couple lessons: 1. I need to train more to do well at the Red if I expect to do better on mid-hard 12's and 2. Training is no longer just climbing a couple hours at the gym. I need to work on finger strength (read: hangboard) and forearm endurance, no easy thing in a gym only 32 feet tall. At the end, I'm still having great fun, so I'm looking forward to more great times outside!

Progression Video - Demencia Senil

2009-10-26T11:56:00.000-05:00

OK, so BigUp pulled the video by complaining about copyright. Reasonable, I guess.

In the spirit of Progression posts, here's an extended video blog of Patxi Usobiaga - there was a clip of him doing his crazy training in Progression (from Bjorn Pohl's website):

VIDEO BLOG2- del panel a Mugarra from patxi usobiaga on Vimeo.

Via Videoclimb and from BigUP, Sharma on a 40-50 ft 5.15a route (short clip from the new Progression movie). I saw this at the Reelrock Film Tour at the Red a few weekends ago. Horrible two-finger pockets and mono's, that remind me of Action Direct (Gullich's .14d masterpiece):

Speaking of AD, here's a brilliant video floating around the interwebs of Rich Simpson training and climbing it:

Obsession from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.

It's the Fall!!!

2009-10-12T11:44:00.000-05:00

I have some pics to come. Just got back from the Red and I've gotten some pics from our recent bouldering day at the Beach and Graveyard.

A thousand thanks to the organizers of the Rocktoberfest at the Gorge. Facebook the RRGCC and donate to the cause!

Bouldering at HCR (& the 24HHH comp)

2009-10-04T15:45:00.000-05:00

Climbers - Yusuf, Chad and Calvin
Weather - fantastic

In other news being posted around the web, the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell 2009 edition has come and gone. Congrats to all the participants and thanks to all the volunteers (I guess I'm thanking myself). This is Jon & Russell, who both did great at the comp:

I had a good time volunteering and want to compliment Andy Chasteen and Beka especially for putting on a great event and staying up to make sure it ran smoothly. By the way, the new Arkansas guidebook by Cole Fennel is just fantastic. I got the chance to look through one and highly recommend it. I'm going to buy one soon and hopefully go to some other areas I had no clue existed (maybe the locals won't be so happy about the book).

We arrived a day early on Thursday night and decided to get some bouldering in. Friday morning started as a brilliantly blue day and we made the most of it. I even got to break my streak of bad climbing weather (finally!). We started at the South Idahos, and my lack of a climbing book is going to hinder me, but we started at the big boulder which I'll call the Dig Dug boulder, for lack of a better name.

The far right holds a warmup V1, the far left a warmup V2. To the left of the V1 is a V3. Here's Chad working on it:

To the right of the V2 (this is on the left side of the boulder), is Dig Dug, a "classic" V4. DD is very fun and I enjoyed it. We tried a couple variations and V4 seemed right on. Afterwards, we moved on to War Bonnet V5, which is a great problem. I heard War Bonnet used to be V4, but the new guide has it at V5. I'm shitty at grading, so either seems right to me. Yusuf and I sent this after working out some beta (go left? go right? try both?). It has a nice overhanging crimpy start, with a strong move to some good slopers and has a satisfying topout. We then tried Crescent, a tricky slab V3. Noone got an ascent and we all blamed the weather. Works for me. Yusuf found a cool variation starting from the right of Crescent and leading into the big sidepull; also no sends, and seems about the same grade. Anyone try it? Yusuf on Crescent:

From there, we did a very nice V2 just down from Crescent; it starts low on crimps and has a couple long moves - the holds almost look manufactured they are so nice! I don't know the name of this one either, sorry. From there, we looked around for some climbs and decided on the Idahos. We had trouble identifying the climbs and did a weird V4 variation to what we thought was a V7, then did the standstart on Moondye V5 on the left side of the boulder. The full Moondye is V9 and looks cool but incredibly difficult. The standstart alone took Yusuf multiple tries to send (no sending from moi) and involves some compression moves on sidepull crimps. Whenever I think a gym problem is too weird, I always have to remind myself that problems like Moondye also exist outdoors.

That pretty much ended the day. Saturday morning found us at the North Forty. We started at the Warmup boulder on a highball V0, which was fun but a bit scary. After that was the Tang (?) boulder, home to Orb Weaver V7. Described as solid for the grade, OW starts on a layback flake, moves right into a crimpy undercling, and requires a strong core and good footwork to traverse right into tough crimps before topping out. I got to the undercling but couldn't make it past into the crimps. Yusuf fell going into the crimps multiple times. Tough but very cool. We tried a V2 warmup variation to the left and Yusuf worked on some heinous compression problem with bad slopers to the right along with some dudes already there. We had full sunlight by then, and that made it hard to stick some holds.

I talked Chad and Yusuf into going to the Leatherface boulder (I it has another name) where I hopped on the V4 and then worked on Leatherface. Me on Leatherface V7:

Leatherface is a horizontal crimp climb that demands good footwork and some dynamic movement. I pieced all the moves together and made a valiant effort on my one send attempt, but didn't have time to try again before needing to leave for my first volunteer shift that night. Fracknabit!! It'll wait for a return trip. Yusuf finished by working on the Honeycomb Traverse V6 - which is quite long and we called it a day.

After watching and interacting with several climbers from other states (I even met some from the DC area), I think I'm getting the itch to try the comp again next year. We'll see. The rest of the pics are here.

The Red (River Gorge) - Labor Day weekend

2009-09-15T21:08:00.000-05:00

Climbers - Tall Tim, Carine, Doug, Angie and Calvin
Weather - good, bad, then ugly

First, a big shoutout for Deb's awesome power cookies. Doug also makes a mean banana bread. That couple can flat out bake, yo.

Day 1, Saturday. Weather: Good.
We made good time Friday night to get to Lago Linda's around 1:30am local time. The highlight of the roadtrip was passing a burning van; literally engulfed in flames, with people standing not 20 feet away and the cops just sitting there letting cars go by. The gas tank looked ready to explode in about 30 seconds, but I guess the cops had it under control.

Saturday morning we headed to the PMRP, parked at Sore Heel and headed to Rival Wall. Doug and I started on Days of Thunder 5.9, while Carine, Tim and Angie put up the draws on Rorschach Inkblot Test 5.8+. It gets the '+' for having an awful waisthigh shelf-start. Other than that, fun 5.8. Next to RIT is Monobrow .10a, which climbs crimps and uses an arete. Deserves at least 4 stars for tricky and intricate climbing. Tim did a great job leading and Angie and Carine TR'd. Doug and I also tried Lobster Claw, .12a. LC is a heavily pocketed vertical wall. It had a bail biner at the third draw, so we figured what the heck, if we can't send, then at least we have an easy way down. Turns out it was way fun; we both sent second go after beta burns. I think Doug could have flashed it but decided to 'fall' in the easy mid-10 part just to make me feel better. Thanks Doug!

Rival also has two long and fun .10c's: Delayed Gratification and Hatfield. Both are about 80 feet long and 'slightly pumpy.' Slightly my arse. After we put the draws up, Tim, Carine and Angie had fun climbing these.

Day 2, Sunday. Weather: Bad

Sunday we headed over to the Gallery. The Gallery is home to 27 years of climbing 5.8, described as 'the best 5.8 in the Gorge.' Bold claim. I can't really evaluate it because I had to clean it in the rain. :) Angie and Tim took turns leading it, but Carine didn't get a chance due to sore fingers. We had enough time to also put up Murano .10b and Johnny B. Good, .11a (very soft), but the heavens opened right around noon. We sat under the cliff getting soggified until we decided on a dignified exit.

After heading back to the campsite, we talked over our options and decided to stop by Roadside (yes, our old rainy day standby) for a quick burn on Tic-Tac-Toe, .12b. Tim, Carine and Angie had declared themselves climbed out, so Doug and I tried this one.

TTT is a 4 bolt 60 foot climb, so it feels a little heady, but the climbing is juggy and pumpy and not too bad until the last bolt. Here, you probably have something like a V3/4 crux guarding the anchors. Doug returned the favor and worked beta out until finding a sequence and shared with me. Pumpy bastard (the climb, not Doug). We tried for a redpoint second go, but we didn't make it. Miguel's pizza afterwards made up for the lack of sending. :)

Day 3, Monday. Weather: Ugly.
Monday, we headed back to the Gallery to try and give Tim and Carine another chance on 27 Years. I didn't mention that the lines had been awful on Sunday. The word is out on 27 years, and however the climb actually is (it's good, but I didn't think it was I-N-C-R-E-D-I-B-L-E; okay, maybe I'm a cynic), people want to try it because it gets 5 stars in the guidebook. While that was being climbed, Doug and I put up A Brief History of Climb .10c and The King Lives On, .10b. Click on The King and check out the picture - I swear it looks right out of Jackson Falls. Climbs like it too. Me like. Very much. Doug too.
Look:

Angie decided to lead Murano, .10b and was having a great time until the heavens decided to open back up. That effectively ended our day. Carine and Tim both tried A Brief History of Climb on TR, and Doug graciously cleaned it. I used an existing bail biner to clean Murano and we packed up and headed out.

It was a partially soggy weekend, but we had a great time nonetheless. I hope to get back soon and try Different Strokes, .11c (supposed to be very atypical climbing for the Red and Mosaic). Here are the rest of the pics.

The Beach - Sept 13, 2009

2009-09-14T14:27:00.000-05:00

Climbers: Chad Tenbroek, Calvin
Weather: Breezy and Nice

I forgot to update the blog on our recent trip to the Red 2 weekends ago. I'll get that up soon.

Yesterday, Chad and I drove down to "The Beach," a little collection of isolated boulders on the Illinois side of the Mississippi. It's not far from The Holies (which are now closed for the same reason Draper's Bluff got shutdown) or some other local bouldering spots.

We didn't climb at the Gallery, which is about 10 minutes away up the banks, but spent most of our day on the Sex on the Beach boulder. This is a house-sized boulder with problems all along the edges. Due to shifting water and sands, the starts were several feet higher than listed in Matt Bliss's guidebook, but we managed. :)

On the side facing the water are two face problems, the one on the left V0?. You start on a left pocket and jump to get your right hand into a crack/side-pull feature. I understand that higher sand makes for an easier start. To the right of this problem is a V1/2(?) with good face climbing moves. It's to the left of Jimbo and I understand it's not in Matt's book. Both had fun topouts.

Immediately to the right is Jimbo, V4. Probably the most fun I had. You start on good crimps, work your way up out a small roof and have to dyno (not really dyno, but definitely a big move) to a hard to see right-handed incut on the lip of the quasi-roof. Get your feet back on, move your left hand up and match on a slopey rail. Also good. Here, it gets a little harder: you bring your feet up and deadpoint to a right hand feature. The rock is rounded here in classic So-Ill style so you have to figure out blind feet placement, match and fight your way up a little. The second time was much easier than the first. Chad and I worked on this problem and had great fun.

Next was Sex on the Beach, V6 (soft?), to the right of Jimbo. Following a slightly steeper part of the roof, it's almost like Jimbo, except with longer moves and a couple harder to use holds. I got my beta wrong the first few times, then used a nice righthand hold I'd missed (assumed it was for the next problem since it was kinda far away) and sent it. There's a similar deadpoint move up top, but it's a bit further away albeit easier to use once you latch on to it. Chad skipped SOTB because of a left arm injury, and we had fun climbing Jimbo.

I don't have any pics b/c I forgot the camera, but the Beach is pretty scenic for So Ill. The river didn't smell too bad and a constant breeze kept things nice and cool. We got to wave at barges going by and the view from the top of the boulder is cool. We'll probably head back someday to check on the Gallery area, but this was a nice, short day.

The Joy of Climbing

2009-08-31T18:37:00.001-05:00

Sometimes, when climbing, you get that inexplicable joy. That feeling of contentment, accomplishment, thrill of completion, sheer happiness, whatever you want to call it. It doesn't matter if it's easy or hard; sometimes, it's just great.

Here are two videos that show that joy. The first is a nice 2007 video of Ethan Pringle on Iron Resolution V13 in Joshua Tree. You get the added bonus of a Michael Reardon showing (although he yaps a bit too much). I first got clued in to this video via the Narc's site.

Iron Resolution w/Interview Video by Cary Carmichael - MySpace Video

Shared via AddThis

The second is great video of a dude on The Power of Landjager V11 in Hueco Tanks. I've embedded it here. This guy's reaction is much simpler: a quiet sigh and look of contentment crosses his face upon the send.

Power of Landjager from Joshua Haynes on Vimeo.

Both reactions are priceless and both brought a smile to my face. Hope you like them as much as I did.