Sending super hero Connor-Man style! Our Team Saucisson Jaime and John's little guy.
Connor's First Ascent from Steven Xu on Vimeo.
Yoli strikes again with a new video. Here are some members of our favorite Team in the beautiful Squamish.
The Enchanted Forest from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.
Tara and I just made it home from a great two weeks in Oregon, and before I pack up and move to DC for a summer internship, I wanted to write and thank all of our amazing climbing friends in St. Louis. Everyone helped make our wedding night such a special experience. During the honeymoon, Tara told me, repeatedly, that hands down the happiest picture I took (besides with her, of course) was with a big group of climbers.
Climbing on your honeymoon is a good, and bad, idea. I couldn't believe how tired I was after the wedding weekend, and on Tuesday morning, the last thing I wanted to do was wake up at 3 am, fly to Portland, and try to go climbing. By the end of the trip though, Tara and I were climbing more confidently as a team (we did at least one multipitch a day) and enjoying the rhythm that is shade chasing and climbing at Smith. The best part of a climbing honeymoon, we agreed, is the metaphor that multipitching can be for a marriage. Teamwork. Trust. Communication. Struggle. And fun. We definitely lived the metaphor and finished our trip on Zion, a four pitch wonder that climbs up the Morning Glory Wall. It was a route at or near both of our limits, a route that we couldn't stop looking at all week long and wondering if we could climb it. The route follows the heavily chalked crack system to the left of Tara's shoulder, then moves up and right to the intersection of the three cracks and light rock. From there, a wonderful and exposed splitter crack tops out with expansive views of Smith Rock and the Crooked River. We had an amazing time on the route. After a long week, the climbing felt easy and light, and the now-ness inherent in any great climbing moment seemed to in all directions.
Once again, thanks to everyone for a host of great memories. We'll post a few more detailed climbing pictures soon, but it is safe to say, we would both support a Team Saucisson trip to test out the Smith crimps soon!
by Christian R. (guest blogger)
After months of thunderstorms and tornados, Yoli and I began hearing predictions of a blue sky weekend in Arkansas. We had been pent up like a couple of caged animals, due to the horrible weather, and we were itching to get on some boulders. As the week progressed, a plan started to take shape, and we headed down to Arkansas on Thursday afternoon with plans to meet Topher on Friday morning.
We met Topher on Friday morning as planned. It turns out, Topher had been up since sunrise after being attacked by a ranch dog the night before. He was concerned about the possibility of rabies, so he had woken up with the sun to ask the owners if the dog had gotten its rabies shot. Lucky for him, it had.
Psyche was high to get climbing, so we loaded up our crash pads and hiked to the Idaho Boulders to start the day. The rocks were still a little damp, but the temps were good. We warmed up by doing a few laps on a fun jug haul called Quite Time (V1) and then headed over to War Bonnet (V5). This problem is amazing and receives 4 out of 4 well deserved stars in the guidebook. This was the first time Topher had tried War Bonnet and he was able to send it quickly. Yoli had tried it before, but was having trouble toward the top of the boulder. She was unable to reach past the bad, damp, vertical slot and was forced to come up with different beta. Slowly, but surely, her beta was unlocked, but by the time she had figured out a sequence that worked for her, she was unable to link all of the moves together. War Bonnet would have to wait.
We packed the pads and headed over to a boulder problem called Numerical Methods (V8). This 3 star climb starts from a sit on good underclings with a ginormous foot ledge and ascends an overhanging arete with big, powerful moves, to a slopey top out. I hadn't bouldered with Topher before and was pleasantly surprised to find his enthusiasm for solving cruxes was super high. We studied the problem and discussed possible beta and began taking turns, trying to climb this powerful arete. On my fourth go, everything came together and I found myself at the top of the boulder. Topher continued to make serious progress on the line and I have no doubt that he will send this problem on his next trip to HCR.
Having rested for a good 30 minutes or so, Yoli was ready to give War Bonnet another shot. When we arrived at the boulder, we noticed the climb was now in the sun, but this was actually a good thing because the bad vertical slot was now dry. We set up the pads as Yoli laced up her Talons. Yoli made the climb look effortless as she hit every hold perfectly and floated up the climb on her first try.
With Yoli having crushed her project, we headed to Razor's Edge (V5). This line goes up another overhanging arete. Razor's Edge has great movement on difficult holds, which climax at a small undercling, followed by a large move to a sloper at the top. I was able to send this on my first try, but I feel that this climb is solid for the grade. The problem is a little contrived, but the movement is so good that I think it's worth getting on.
Since we were in the area, we decided to head up to the Moondye boulder. This boulder has a few great problems situated on an overhanging face. I wanted to try Moondye Stand (V5) again. On my last trip out to HCR, I had failed miserably on this problem. The crux of the problem is a dyno off of bad holds to a great sloper at the lip. I love dynamic movement, but ironically I suck at dynos and I really wanted to send this problem. Topher was able to crush Moondye Stand inside of five minutes and he shared some really good beta that allowed me to send it as well. I was really impressed by Topher's ability to read boulder problems. This guy really knows his stuff.
After sending Moondye Stand we started working on Chuck Wagon (V4) and Kung Fu (V8). It turns out Chuck Wagon is a pretty unappealing boulder problem and all of our focus soon shifted to the much more interesting Kung Fu. Topher and I worked on Kung Fu with a vengeance. We tried hard to send it for about 30 minutes. On my final attempt, and under extreme body tension mid-crux, I felt pain in three separate areas of my body and I was forced to jump off the problem. Luckily everything was okay, but it was definitely a scary feeling.
After having a close call on Kung Fu, we headed to the less strenuous, yet uber technical Momento (V5). This right leaning arete has a cryptic sequence that Yoli, Topher, and I just couldn't figure out. We worked this climb for at least 30 minutes and although we were all getting about three-quarters of the way up, we were still missing the key to unlock the final move.
I messed around a little on High Five (V4) and Miho (V6) while Yoli sent Udaho (V3) with ease.
Hungry and tired, we headed back to camp to refuel with a very late lunch. After lunch, we headed to the North Forty boulders where we tried Orb Weaver (V7). This awesome line feels stout for the grade. After a handful of failed attempts, we wandered over to Bad Daze (V5), which was situated over three inches of wet goat poop. Falling was not an option and neither was sending, as the fear of falling in deep, wet, goat poop all but consumed us.
From there we headed to Chainsaw (V4), which Yoli flashed, while I struggled on the opening moves. Topher, re-energized by Yoli's flash, managed to flash Chainsaw as well. I ended up settling for the redpoint. As darkness began to fall around us, we packed up our pads and headed back to camp, exhausted, but still hungry for more.
Saturday was supposed to be wet, but it ended up only raining a few drops in the early morning hours. I had read in the guidebook about a boulder that was said to be "flat-out one of the best boulders in the state" and I wanted to check it out. Yoli and Topher were game, so we headed to the Undertow Boulder for some serious bouldering.
On the way to the Undertow Boulder, we warmed up by climbing three problems on the Sloping Joe Boulder. Upon arriving at the Undertow Boulder, my jaw dropped, and then proceeded to just about fall off. Here was an amazing boulder with an ultra steep... hell, horizontal roof, with awesome and interesting holds the whole way. It wasn't just the angle, this roof was long, with a variety of holds. The best line on the boulder, Hang Ten (V7), had a huge loaf start hold, dozens of finger pockets, a huge sloper rail, jug pockets, deep slots, and a monster finishing jug. I don't want to spoil the climb for anyone who might want to seek this thing out by giving specifics, but I will say this: Amazing, gymnastic roof climbing mixed with enough techiness to make an outstanding boulder problem.
Realizing what a great climb was in front of us, Topher and I began to session Hang Ten. Every hold on the roof was examined and discussed and every possible move we could think of was tried. We began to solve each section and after two hours, we began to link large sections together. After two and a half hours had gone by, we were getting to the last hold every time and falling off the top out. Finally, after three hours of sessioning, Topher and I were able to send Hang Ten. This boulder problem is the best that I have climbed at HCR and is one of my favorite boulder problems to date.
Following the epic monster session on Hang Ten, we headed back to the car for cold beer and a much needed lunch. After lunch, Yoli got on a rope and made two strong attempts on Mine, Mine, Mine (5.11d) and about twenty attempts on Fat Hand (5.12a) at the North Forty. Yoli was able to get through the difficult crux of Fat Hand after almost an hour of repeated attempts, but was unable to finish the route. She'll be back to get this one next time, as she is very close to sending it.
We ended the day with Topher's much anticipated “Buffalo Chicken Mac & Cheese”, which was very tasty, some turkey tetrazzini, and some ramen with eggs. Dessert consisted of Yoli's campfired bananas stuffed with melted chocolate and marshmallows.
By Sunday morning, everyone was starting to feel the fatigue, but that wasn't going to stop us from sending some more problems. We headed back to the Idaho boulders and climbed this overlooked gem called Quagmire (V2) that only gets 2 stars in the guidebook for some odd reason. That climb seriously should have 3 stars in my opinion. Quagmire has perfect crimps the whole way on a slightly overhanging face.
After Quagmire we got on The Crescent (V3), which turned out to be a really fun climb. Topher and I sent The Crescent and we all did a quick lap on Rainshadow (V0), each of us taking in the view of the forest from the top. In the last half hour before leaving, Topher and I sent Dirty Bitch (V3) and everyone made a few tired attempts on Even Dirtier (V5).
After everyone was in agreement that we had finally had our fill of boulders, we packed up our crash pads for the last time and headed back to our cars for the long drive home. As we said our goodbyes, we knew that more thunderstorms and tornados were in our future, but the memories from this blue sky weekend would always be with us.
A short video of CR and Topher on Numerical Methods and Moondye Stand at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, May 2011.
Music: Ronald Jenkees and Metallica
Red Rock 2011. Who needs more words. Yoli strikes again. Good memories. Enjoy!
Try Hard Once from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.
A lot of people have a certain image in mind when one talks about Vegas, The sin city, the gambling, the shows... the slot machines...the glitter. We think more of Rock. A rock so red, so worked by centuries of erosion, a rock of art.
We are the cliff dancers. At least that is what a sign a the second pullout trail head, in the Red Rocks park, calls us! A strange breed, who, god forbid, would rather play on rock than at a casino table!
We came from the Midwest, some came from the West, some from the Mountains. Team Saucisson and friends!
From Saint Louis:
Yoli, Christian, Michael, Emily, Braden, , Meghan, Sophie, and later on Yusuf, John and Nathalie (from Toronto)
From Colorado:
Tim
From California:
Oky, Brian, Michelle
And then a larger posse from CA who we'll sporadically see during the 5 days. Glenn, Sarah, Mike, .....
DAY 1
Second Pull-out. Black Corridor and Sweet Pain walls.
The rock glows against a cloudless sky. 
It is going to be warm says Yoli. Oh I'll take the warmth. The Saint Louis winter has dragged on a bit too long, and if that snow storm we had had a few days before was pretty indeed, I was definitely ready to take off a layer or two!
The black corridor is like a gym tell me Christian and Yoli. And they are right. an incredible tight canyon with an amazing amount of routes. It is a good place till it's not! When it gets crowded, yes it is then hard to believe you are in the desert! No more peace. So we'll end up warming up on a series of 10s and a 9 (Burros don't gamble 10c, Nightmare on Crude street, 10d) and head for the next crag, Sweet Pain.
That is a bit of rock I had heard about a few times before the trip. I was already excited about some lines I had never seen.
A beautiful 11a Glitter Gulch, wet my appetite and then we'll all take turn on The Gambler and overhung sweet 11b. A great route Yoli said not to be pumpy. humm we must have a very different definition of the word! :)
Then to the left is Sweet Pain (left on the photo, right, The Gambler), a beautiful angling and steep 11d Yoli had told me so much about. 
One of her projects. Christian flashed it putting the draws (a mere warm up for him!). I looked at the route and could not help but being a bit intimidated. But since I had hopped on my first line, I was feeling really calm and centered, a good state of mind. A first go pretty much bolt to bolt but, I would be back. Yoli would fall after the crux. so close. Yes we had some unfinished business here. A good first day for everyone. Feeling the rock, breathing in the desert air.
A stop at the legendary IN AND OUT on the way back to the hotel. And then we are, a bunch of very dirty and probably smelly climbers, walking through the ground floor casino of our hotel ( but of course!), meeting the very sad glances of people, cigarette hanging on the corner of their lips, desperately tapping on the buttons of the slot machines.
Argghhh why would you spend your day in such a place? smoke, no window, psychedelic carpet, and the endless ringing of the machine. Insane. This city is insane.
Hueco Trip 2010 from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.
Team Saucisson sets out on yet another adventure! We left the cool and crisp Mid-West and landed in the warm and sunny town of El Paso, TX for a four day bouldering trip to Hueco Tanks. Scott and Christian were the only ones to have previously experienced the bouldering in Hueco. The rest of us were astounded to see what Hueco had to offer. The boulders, some the size of school buses, others the size of skyscrapers, are pocked with millions of huecos, created during a magma eruption 35 million years ago. This creation offered us boundless classic lines - highballs, caves, roofs...you name it! We were like kids in a candy store for four days, savoring in the beauty that surrounded us every chance we got.
Credit to Quentin Tarantino film "Kill Bill" and the movie soundtrack for the inspiration in the creation of this parody.
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