TUESDAY, APRIL 14.
The first day of our Provence climbing adventure looked quite promising, the sky a perfect blue and the sun shinning. So we decided to aim for the furthest of the climbing crags for which we had opted: Les Calanques. A succession of white limestone cliffs falling into the mediterranean sea near Marseille, a mere hour 1/2 from the small village of Merindol where we stayed.
A beautiful traverse, hugging the Sea at times, on a limestone which felt like nothing I had ever climbed on. Solid, yet a bit glossy. Technically the climbing was not hard but felt extremely exposed. Traversing is always "interesting", and I have to admit, the pitons, or bolts were there mostly as a psychological reminder we actually were hooked to a rope!
Fall factor would have sent us into the crashing waves. 
As we finished the loop around the "Bec" (the beak) we reached a wider area, perfect for a well deserved rest and from where we could get on some vertical lines.
The sun was pounding but I was not going to complain. We finished the day on 6a pretty physical route with quite a bit of a commiting move in the middle. A 6a would be a 10a here in the States. Well some would say the Euro have tough ratings! The concept of smearing of polished limestone is of different World and requires a lot of faith! Here is Fab on that route going through the crux.
We headed back on a class 3 or so trail overlooking the cliffs of the Calanque. Climbing in Paradise. More photos of the day here.
First and foremost we were welcome to Provence by our good friend Caroline,
now a resident of Montpellier (after 5 years in Saint louis_who would blame her!), who drove us through the provence countryside to La Bourdille, the house of Manon's (my nephew's Fab's wife) family, a beautiful historical Magannerie in the small village of Merindol.
Great welcome there, with kids, a good "aperitif", and of course good food in good company. And of course Woody managed to entertain the kid with circus acts...actually scaring the little Yohan who did not quite understand why the big guys' head was pointing downwards!
Caro went back that night, yes French people do work from time to time and we got ready for a first day of climbing on French rock.
now a resident of Montpellier (after 5 years in Saint louis_who would blame her!), who drove us through the provence countryside to La Bourdille, the house of Manon's (my nephew's Fab's wife) family, a beautiful historical Magannerie in the small village of Merindol. 
Great welcome there, with kids, a good "aperitif", and of course good food in good company. And of course Woody managed to entertain the kid with circus acts...actually scaring the little Yohan who did not quite understand why the big guys' head was pointing downwards!
Caro went back that night, yes French people do work from time to time and we got ready for a first day of climbing on French rock.
In the morning Fab, Manon, Woody and I departed for The Calanque de Sormiou where we met my brother Jean, who is living his retirement dream teaching kids the techniques of climbing and mountaineering, when he is not involved in some non for profit or city council operations.
Jean suggested to do the Bec's Traverse which would take us around the tip of the cliff and back up.
A beautiful traverse, hugging the Sea at times, on a limestone which felt like nothing I had ever climbed on. Solid, yet a bit glossy. Technically the climbing was not hard but felt extremely exposed. Traversing is always "interesting", and I have to admit, the pitons, or bolts were there mostly as a psychological reminder we actually were hooked to a rope! 
Fall factor would have sent us into the crashing waves. Since there were five of us, that gave me an opportunity to learn a bit about the two rope system. Manon and Fab, being on one rope, Jean, Woody and I on two thinner ropes. Definitely took a bit of getting used to. But my bro is used to "handle" newbies at more complex rope rope management. It was great to learn from him. Here he is happy to let us lead everything
As we finished the loop around the "Bec" (the beak) we reached a wider area, perfect for a well deserved rest and from where we could get on some vertical lines.
The sun was pounding but I was not going to complain. We finished the day on 6a pretty physical route with quite a bit of a commiting move in the middle. A 6a would be a 10a here in the States. Well some would say the Euro have tough ratings! The concept of smearing of polished limestone is of different World and requires a lot of faith! Here is Fab on that route going through the crux.
We headed back on a class 3 or so trail overlooking the cliffs of the Calanque. Climbing in Paradise. More photos of the day here.
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3 comments:
WOW Soph. You are living it up out there. Good friends, good food, oceanside limestone?!?! Enjoy the rest of your trip!
Well the trip is over Joe. :( But yes it was fantastic. I hope we can get a group one day, to cross the Ocean and go hit some French rock!
It sounds AMAZING, Soph! And count me in if you ever do get a group to go climb French rock. Provence has been a dream of mine for a long, long time. Welcome home -- Missouri rock isn't as breathtaking, I'm afraid, but we're glad to have you back :).
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