The Beach - Sept 13, 2009

Climbers: Chad Tenbroek, Calvin
Weather: Breezy and Nice

I forgot to update the blog on our recent trip to the Red 2 weekends ago. I'll get that up soon.

Yesterday, Chad and I drove down to "The Beach," a little collection of isolated boulders on the Illinois side of the Mississippi. It's not far from The Holies (which are now closed for the same reason Draper's Bluff got shutdown) or some other local bouldering spots.

We didn't climb at the Gallery, which is about 10 minutes away up the banks, but spent most of our day on the Sex on the Beach boulder. This is a house-sized boulder with problems all along the edges. Due to shifting water and sands, the starts were several feet higher than listed in Matt Bliss's guidebook, but we managed. :)

On the side facing the water are two face problems, the one on the left V0?. You start on a left pocket and jump to get your right hand into a crack/side-pull feature. I understand that higher sand makes for an easier start. To the right of this problem is a V1/2(?) with good face climbing moves. It's to the left of Jimbo and I understand it's not in Matt's book. Both had fun topouts.

Immediately to the right is Jimbo, V4. Probably the most fun I had. You start on good crimps, work your way up out a small roof and have to dyno (not really dyno, but definitely a big move) to a hard to see right-handed incut on the lip of the quasi-roof. Get your feet back on, move your left hand up and match on a slopey rail. Also good. Here, it gets a little harder: you bring your feet up and deadpoint to a right hand feature. The rock is rounded here in classic So-Ill style so you have to figure out blind feet placement, match and fight your way up a little. The second time was much easier than the first. Chad and I worked on this problem and had great fun.

Next was Sex on the Beach, V6 (soft?), to the right of Jimbo. Following a slightly steeper part of the roof, it's almost like Jimbo, except with longer moves and a couple harder to use holds. I got my beta wrong the first few times, then used a nice righthand hold I'd missed (assumed it was for the next problem since it was kinda far away) and sent it. There's a similar deadpoint move up top, but it's a bit further away albeit easier to use once you latch on to it. Chad skipped SOTB because of a left arm injury, and we had fun climbing Jimbo.

I don't have any pics b/c I forgot the camera, but the Beach is pretty scenic for So Ill. The river didn't smell too bad and a constant breeze kept things nice and cool. We got to wave at barges going by and the view from the top of the boulder is cool. We'll probably head back someday to check on the Gallery area, but this was a nice, short day.