This NYtimes article is interesting; it seems to indicate that performance is higher and more efficient in the late afternoon/evening.
"And not only are performances better in the late afternoon and early evening, but, contrary to what exercise physiologists would predict, heart rates are also higher for the same effort."
It seems intuitive to me; that is, I definitely feel more sluggish in the morning than in the evening when working out.There are a couple variables: 1. it only really applies to people who work out regularly and 2. it's unclear if it applies to anaerobic activity (e.g. climbing).
Anyone have clear experience with this and notice that you tend to send harder later in the day? It might be difficult to assess this notion since people tend to climb all day on trips, making late day climbing just more tired climbing.
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Interesting question. Early morning gym sessions always seem more sluggish than evening sessions. Outside the late afternoon is usually when I start to feel a full day of climbing so its hard to say that the afternoon is better in that case. I'll go with whatever theory gives me the best excuse for not sending I suppose.
Yeah, I can identify with that. Still, it's a useful idea. I wonder if people who have time to climb outdoors on projects during the week (after work) can speak knowledgeably about this. Do they find they send their projects on those evening burns or on weekend mornings? It's also possible that the "late-day benefit" may not be enough to overcome mental issues people might have on a big project.
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