Saturday, May 1, 2010

Volcano, tornadoes... Rock on!



Climbers:
LJohn, Yusuf, Burke, Dane, Calvin, Angie, Thom, Kristin (and Carrig!), Joe, Yoli, Christian, Josh, Catherine, Tall Tim, and Woody (camping appearance in the Cadillac on his way to and from a wedding in NC)

Sometimes Nature has a way to remind us who is really in charge, and She humbles us showing where we belong, justly dwarfing us. April was one of these months. Last week was one of these times. It was to be a French April for me and the extended Team Saucisson, as my nephew Fab (Fabrice) and his wife Manon were to celebrate their 10th anniversary by joining us from France at the Gorge. It was not to be for the Frenchies. A volcano with an absolutely unpronounceable name had decided otherwise creating havoc in the European skies. Mother nature had spoken and, if disappointed, we agreed to listen and planned for another adventure next year. Fab and Manon ended up going climbing in Spain. As we all agree Plan B was not so bad...:)

The missing Frenchies were there in spirit... glued on cardboard cut-outs:


But Team Saucisson remained unbowed, even after looking at a grim forecast for Kentucky. Yes yes there is always something to climb at the Red even when the elements decide to strike hard, which they...did.
It was my first time camping at Lago Linda, which from now on I'll consider the Eldorado of KY!. It is 5 stars camping, and I have to admit not missing a bit the obnoxious noisy nights of Miguel nor the flash floods raging through the camp site when it pours down. Yes you guessed it we had plenty of these!

LJohn Burke and I were on our way by Wednesday morning (21st) joining Dane and Yusuf who had left a day earlier. Then the group grew day after day as more arrived. Thom and Kristin traveled with 3 1/2 month old Carrig who turned out to be quite a hardy camper!

The video compiled by Yoli will speak better than words.
I'll let you enjoy it.

Red River Gorge - "April Showers" from Yolanda Chen on Vimeo.


It is a wonderful memento to this really good few days with friends. Those who did not make it from here and overseas, were missed but the rock will be there for another "visit".
These are the areas we hit:
Wed- Day 1 (21st): end of the day at Military Wall

Thu-Day2: Pendergrass The Shire and Rival Wall. New wall for me with stellar routes like Delayed Gratification and Hatfield ( Rival) two superb loooong 10 c and the G-Man and KSB at the Shire (10c and 10d). Some of us scaled Amarillo Sunset an absolutely gorgeous STEEEEP 11b with LOOONG moves.
Yusuf, discovering a new passion for photography, made sure to entertain us rigging some ropes to go hang between the cliff and the trees in order to get more interesting photo angles. And he got some cool shots. Judge for yourself.

Fri-Day 3: After a lot rain during the night and a not too promising forecast, we were bound to Roadside Crag where Joe sent Tic Tac Toe, and John managed to bring back a piece of the cliff, a pretty good hold 2/3 up Pulling Pockets!
See pictures of the day here.

Sat- Day 4: Curbside and Drive-by Crag
Another storm during the night, another dry day...till about 4 in the afternoon. Overhanging steep faces here we come. Welcome to the Red!

Sun- Day 5: Bruise Brothers Wall, Boneyard, Midnight Surf.
Bruise Brothers Wall was a nice way to end a trip among friends. A place where everyone can find something to climb, a beautiful face and a weather which smiled on us for a bit, at least till the end of the afternoon. Yusuf and Yoli hung on their harnesses for hours, while we tried to be the cool models! Yusuf might something to say about our fashion color choices!
The truth is these guys did a great job. It was also really great to see Yusuf having so much fun exploring his photographic eye.

Yoli was shooting like a machine gun. You'll see what I mean if you look at all the Picassa albums I've linked to that post (and I did not put them all.. or I'll run out of space!)!
We moved on to the Boneyard and the boys to Midnightsurf. Angie climbed Armed Insurection an 11a with tricky delicate bouldering start. She did great on it after working and unlocking the start. Her first lead-on 11 outside! Great job Angie. Josh and Catherine got on Cinderella a 9 with a tricky start, and Josh went on to clean the 11a, while I lead on another 11a Captain Blondie sinks the ship, with a left hanging pumpfest overhanging face. Great route which gave me the occasion to take a big whipper!
The boys (Yusuf, Joe, Ljohn and Calvin) went to "play a serious pumpy wall at Midnight Surf' Inniquity. Ljohn almost flashed it in his stylish fashion, and Joe sent it second go. Animal! Yusuf was doing his harness hanging-taking photo thing. Here they are.
Here are some picts of that day.


Great days in a great place, great friends.

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