Jackson Falls - July 25, 2009

Climbers - Tony, Calvin, Angie and Craig
Weather - better later, not so good early.

Ah, another trip to the Falls snuck in on an iffy weather day. The forecast was mid-80's with possible afternoon thunderstorms, so of course we left early hoping to get some climbing in before the rain hit. When we arrived, the exact opposite happened. It started raining off and on (of course) and cleared up into a gorgeous day by the afternoon. Did I say of course? Of course.

We headed over to the Rainy Day roof, determined to make a day of it, and started climbing. Craig suited up and put up Sprinkles 5.6 trad, which Angie followed. I think I heard Craig mutter about wet holds a few times.


After Craig put up Sprinkles, he headed over to End of the Cluster 5.8+, another trad route 5 routes to the right at the end of Rainy Day roof. Admirably sent, with Angie following once again (see below).

Meanwhile, Tony put up Lightning .10c and Flash, .10a and Zapped .11b. Lightning was interesting and crimpy, but wet and slopey at the top. Tony held it together nicely and sent. Flash, all 3 of us swear is the hardest route on the wall. Darn thing is weird and hard when the holds are a bit damp! Zapped was the most fun, requiring a heelhook start with dynamic movement on cool holds. Too bad it was so short. Craig and I led all three climbs after Tony put them up. Ropegun O'Connor.

Given the weather, we decided to try Industry, .12a on our way to Hidden Peaks, home of Detox Mountain. Industry is surprisingly fun and bouldery, with the mandatory Jackson topout. It's only 3 bolts long, but it caused some consternation due to the wetness at the top. Here are some vids:

Craig the first time he grabbed a wet hold towards the topout:

Craig on Industry, .12a - Jackson Falls from Calvin Hwang on Vimeo.

Craig working the crux:

Craig on Industry, part II from Calvin Hwang on Vimeo.

Craig figuring out the crux:

Craig on Industry, part III from Calvin Hwang on Vimeo.

I love the way climbing at your limit or on a hard section will bring out your unvarnished innerself. Notice Craig's spontaneous comments in the first clip, and then the demented chuckle on the last clip as he gets to the top... :) I've done that many times myself.

From there, it started drying up, so we headed over to Detox. Angie and I moved down to the Town Square. Angie led Spank You Very Much 5.9 and climbed Monkey Shower 5.9, getting her lead head back together. We also met Michael and Kristy from the gym at this area, climbing Katie Did 5.9 and I think Gully Gee Whiz 5.10b, which I think is a great route.

Craig, feeling his trad oats, launched up Devil's Lake Dreams, a splitter 5.9 handcrack 4 routes to the left of Detox. I wasn't there, but I heard it was epic (off-width, chicken wings, leg jams, etc. involved) and Tony followed with zeal. :) Detox turned out to be wet, so they backed off that climb and Tony led Cranial Implosion, .12a which was apparently damp.

We finished up the day with Craig climbing Cheerio Bowl, .10a, a classic, long climb that crosses an arete on Pricker Peak. Nice day. The rest of the pics are here.