Yosemite Trip Report

A quick read through Team Saucisson and you can tell Calvin had Yosemite on the brain... I didn't climb El Cap in a day, I didn't dislocate a wrist with a finger lock, and I didn't climb A5, but I did manage to have an incredible trip. First things first - thanks to all of the St. Louis climbers who helped me train this summer, offering up countless belays and pushing me on harder routes. All of the work paid off; we managed to climb some 7000 vertical feet in our 10 days in the park, climbed a few 10's on gear, and learned how to aid climb. Yosemite definitely opened my eyes to what is possible in rock climbing. I'll organize this post by route, since nearly everything we climbed was a great suggestion from someone in St. Louis. Every day we tried to push ourselves with a longer route, or a more difficult route. Every day we came down swearing it was the best line we'd ever climbed. That's a good way to finish a trip.

Our first day out we climbed Nutcracker (5 pitches, 5.8) on Manure Pile Buttress. This route warns of a 'difficult mantle' on the fourth pitch, but Jackson Falls had us well prepared. I led the odd pitches, starting with a thin crack 5.9 variation. The crux move is a high foot on 'polished stone'. The crux occurred on the first move and I definitely learned the definition of polished! A two foot fall onto a yellow TCU and I was in the business. Thankfully, this would be one of only two minor falls all week long. The route featured fun moves, a two minute approach hike and an easy walk off. A great introduction to Yosemite.

The next day we climbed Central Pillar of Frenzy (5 pitches, 5.9) on Middle Cathedral. This route offered super consistent 5.9 crack climbing, with everything from fingers to chimney moves. I led the even pitches, which offered lots of fingers and small hands, a few lieback moves and a perfect double crack system. For the second day, this climb felt hard, but it was perfect to help us get more comfortable on the granite and the small and big stuff alike. Central Pillar also sits across the meadow from El Cap, so the entire day we looked out and saw tourists like ants photographing climbers. We also drooled over ourselves staring at El Cap.


Feeling confident on 5.9 cracks, we wanted to push our endurance, so we returned to Middle Cathedral to climb the NE Buttress (11 pitches, 5.10a A0). Pitch 5 features amazing variety. A slabby face goes 5.10c or A0 as a bolt ladder. I gave the onsight a try, clipping the first two bolts before falling. In the interest of time, I started pulling on draws and moving through the ladder. From there, the pitch traverses left into a 5.9 trad roof that offered a mental crux, and then a long section of 5.6 hands in a large flake. I love how hard pitches yield the best belay ledges: suddenly we had huge exposure and long sight lines far into the valley. A sea of pine trees and granite, plus the silence of having the wall to ourselves.

The rest of the climb passed quickly, with Justin taking some awesome leads, and then graciously letting me take the last three pitches (which link into two, with one 60 m rope). A steep two hour hike home, but we were resting in camp by 4 pm, feeling great about our adventures.

The middle of the week was enjoyable, but slow climbing wise. We took a rest day and headed down to Mariposa Grove and the Giant Sequoias. The craziest part of the day was the crowds. Hundreds of people swarming 200 redwoods, but if you are willing to hike 20 minutes uphill (on a huge trail) you have the entire grove to yourself. Rain threatened on and off for the next two days, so we stayed close to the ground. We got in several single pitch climbs, including several aid leads, chimney sections, and my first 5.10c: a long offwidth flake (5.9) to a finger sized roof, about 6 feet in length (5.10c). The roof featured great pro and excellent feet; for my money the squeeze climb was much harder. Learning to aid climb was... not fun. Justin and I both agreed that it was a means to an end, not an endeavor to enjoy in its own right (at least for us). We stayed on easy C1, hammerless, terrain. Plugging cams and nuts in seams that we could free climb, just working the movement out, and keeping the triple racks and etriers organized.

By now, our spirits were soaring, the climbing had been amazing, the weather perfect. It may be hot in August, but if you can climb at Jackson, then you can definitely handle the 90 degree sun. We had two big goals/dreams left: El Cap and Half Dome.

We headed out to climb the East Buttress of El Cap (14 pitches, 5.10b), which even though its not on the head wall itself, still has several super exciting pitches and great views. The route starts hard, with a long 5.9 chimney. Thankfully Justin led up, and offered up (in my mind) the much more manageable pitch 2 - a 5.10b face move protected by small nuts and then a 5.9 finger groove. The next few pitches went quickly, including a bit of route finding and ant smashing. Pitch 8 offered one of my favorite 30' of climbing all week: a slightly overhanging 5.9 lieback, with smears and edges down low for your feet. I used my first ever heel hook on a trad line, hugging in close to put in the finger sized pro.

From Yosemite 2009

Some more 5.9 chimney and 5.9 face climbing above, then Justin led the strangest 5.8 of polished, pancacked face holds ever, before we made the long stretch to the top. We took the tourist variation descent by hiking to the summit of El Cap

From Yosemite 2009

and then nine miles back down, pausing to stop and see the Upper Yosemite Falls, which actually stopped flowing for the summer on our last day! Our longest day of trad climbing ever, coupled with a long hike, and we were exhausted. Fortunately, we were sharing our site in Camp 4 with some nice people (including a professional surfer) and enjoyed a good dinner.

Next, we debated. Were we ready to climb Half Dome? Were there other routes we would enjoy more? Half Dome sits at the far eastern edge of the Valley, looming over everything else. Its almost always visible, and as for many others, just begs to be climbed. After carefully considering the topo (almost nightly), we decided we could handle the 23 pitches at the 5.9 Aid 1 grade on the Regular Route.

From Yosemite 2009

We didn't have a haul bag, so the second would carry a backpack with all the water and bivy gear. Little did we know jumaring the rope as a second would be the mental and physical crux of the route!

We climbed the route in three long, enjoyable days. Day 1 we packed and hiked to the base of the climb, then fixed lines on the first three pitches of the route. We rappelled and slept/laid awake that night at the base of the cliff. A few other parties showed up, and everyone was nervous about sharing the wall. We 'woke' up at 4 am and started jumaring the fixed lines. Good decision - with one jumar and one prusik apiece, it took over an hour to get to the top of pitch 3. Regardless, we were on our way! Justin and I decided to block lead the climb, since transferring the pig and aid gear would be terribly time consuming. I took the morning shift, leading several long 5.9 pitches, a short 5.11c section (on aid) and the Robbins Traverse bolt ladder. We reached the top of pitch 11 at 1:30, fully committed now to the summit. Justin led the afternoon shift and did a remarkable job starting up three long chimney pitches (5.6, 5.9, 5.9). I stayed behind with the haul bag, cursing the pig at every possible chance.

From Yosemite 2009

We made Big Sandy Ledges and our dinner/bivy at the fading rays of 8 pm. I couldn't believe how well I slept, on a bed of climbing ropes, rocks and backpacks. We woke up to a cold morning, and a red and black sunrise far off in the valley, with just the leftover light reaching us. I'm sure the 11 California wildfires gave the sunrise its tint. The top seemed close now, but it would still be another 9 hours of slow work. We aren't incredible seasoned aid vets, and the next three pitches of Aid 1 (or 5.11 fingers to 5.10 roof) took us 6 hours to complete. No problem, since we were in the shade all morning, slowly sipping our liter of water apiece. I then led the final three pitches, each with more enthusiasm than the last.

First up, Thank God Ledge. A 40' traverse on a twelve inch shelf, with 1800 feet screaming below you. A real mental crux, followed by an exciting 5.8 squeeze section to anchors. I was pumped, since this was my first real chimney/squeeze lead with any sort of exposure (and since I dind't have to carry the pig -- thanks Justin!). Then, another bolt ladder with a tricky gear traverse. And finally, nearing on 3 pm, the final pitch of 5.7 slab/finger crack and then a blocky 5.5 section of mantle moves. Then we're standing on the summit!

The experience of climbing Half Dome was incredible. What I enjoyed most was that it took all of our experience to date with long free routes, aid climbing and lightweight backpacking. No one part was more difficult than anything we'd done to date, but in totality, gave us a chance to see ourselves in new situations with new challenges. The hardest part was keeping the energy up after a long day of hauling, but the excitement and adrenaline of the exposure and route helped us push through.

Thanks for reading this far. Yosemite was a great two weeks of climbing, friendship and scenery. I know I'll be heading back, and I hope you all will be joining me! More pics from the trip can be seen here.