Friday, January 9, 2009

The Sun is back?

Five days in the desert and yes we manage to have a day of rain. Ah Ah I definitely blame it on Angie and Calvin who seem to have a cloud following them across the US climbing destinations! But I have to admit if it was a disappointment as it would have been out multi-pitch day, a rest day was welcome after three days in the row and finger pads asking for mercy.

We woke up to some drizzle on our last day.  The elements did not seem to cooperate.  But Team Saucisson never gives up!  Joe offered to go hike deeper in the Canyon of La Milagrosa where we had been 2 days before.  There were some natural pools which would definitely make the hike worth it, and who knows we could carry our gear to the base of the crag... just in case.  
We hiked under some very heavy skies to reach the beautiful remote pools, scrambled around on very wet rock and oh miracle found a couple of dry routes on our way back.  Never mind that the driest was a 12a, a beautiful shallow dihedral The Wizard.  Great warm up!  The other dry one was one we had climbed the previous time, Community Service.  Angie sent it beautifully this time after Joe led it, while I had my eyes on the Wizard which Joe and Calvin worked and sent.  I climbed it twice and my pads still remember it!  I'll be back to it.  Ahh that move off of a 1/4" square "crimp" after the third bolt!  Beautiful....painful...
Chris Prewitt joined us (and Katherine later) in the afternoon, and I went on to climb a beautiful 11 a bit further down.  Delicate balancy face and a fun move around a small roof.  Nice flash for me, and first 11 send for Angie who followed it.  Bravo! you go girl!
Then while Joe sent another 12 next to the Wizard, and Calvin was working on it while kicking and screaming ( and calling for mommy!), Angie and I followed Chris who led up a mixed 10 next to Community Service.  No big deal you would say.  Chris is a seasoned Trad climber.  Well the twist of the story is I had only a few pieces with me, to be exact: a .5 and .4 small cams, and a handful of nuts (5 total I believe).  Chris looked at it, looked at the route and went for it!  My hats off to him!  Not such an easy lay-back to protect at the beginning.  Calm and controlled was his climb.  Pretty cool.
We hiked back before sundown with just enough daylight to catch a glimpse of a strange breed of Cactus:

We finished the day invited at Chris and Katherine, eating some delicious bbq while watching some video of crazy Brits climbing Grit stone on one piece.  
Good Bye to the desert.  Thank you to Joe and Kerry for their great hospitality.  Thanks to all the nice locals, old and new friends.  We'll be back.

1 comment:

Calvin said...

That .11a you and Ang flashed is called Stealin'. Nice job! I heard you guys screaming on it from way around the corner. :)