More Health - Efficacy of Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) Therapy

Here's a link to a couple of studies done on PRP, which is a therapy that harvests your own blood, isolates the platelets, then injects the platelet-rich plasma directly to the injury site. It's relevant to climbers because one of the studies was done on tennis elbow injuries. Unfortunately, the results are dubious and not substantially effective beyond the placebo effect.

Here's a quote, "Although 73 percent of patients given platelet injections improved after a year, compared with 54 percent for steroid injections, Dr. Fu said that was not much success. “Any time you touch a patient, you get 70 percent success,” he said, adding that even placebos give that rate over time."

Anyone try this?

Vid - Medial epicondylitis "Golfer's Elbow"

I had a friend recently ask about treatments for tendinitis of the elbow. I sent him this post I wrote on it. He responded with an updated video for Golfer's Elbow which I'll embed here and in the original post. I'm glad he did because medial epicondylitis sounds like what I've been dealing with for a fairly long time. The pain isn't acute, but it's enough to make me notice.


Click on the previous post or search on Amazon.com to find the Therabar used in the video.

The Red, Stick-clipping and Climbing

I saw a couple threads on people who have decked climbing the Return of Chris Synder .11d, at Roadside Crag. Both instances involved blowing the first clip. The first bolt is high (20 ft?) and apparently you start from a ledge, have a glassy foot to deal with and potential seeping holds. I haven't climbed it; anyone who has care to comment about the route? I've heard good things about the actual climbing.

Thread one & Thread two.

You'll see some discussion about risk and stick-clipping and an informal poll about adding bolts so the first isn't so high. Interesting that a couple route developers chimed in with cost adding to the decision to place the first bolt so high. Fair enough. I enjoy reading the back and forth that sometimes shines a little history about a route and other climbers from back in the day. Ok, maybe I just like reading in general.

BTW, here's a link to the owner's site for Roadside. Please read and respect the rules. I wasn't aware of the group size limitation before, though I don't think we usually have that problem. I am thankful these two folks got together to preserve one of the better climbing crags I've been to (notwithstanding how crowded it gets).

Vid - Holy Boulders

Chad has done a great job compiling this short vid on 2 climbs we did on our recent trip to the Holies. Shadow of a Man v5 and attempts on Trillium, v7. That heel-toe cam was hard, but cool.

Shadow Of A Man from Chad Tenbroek on Vimeo.

Thanks Chad!!

Physical Therapy - Good, Bad, Voodoo or Real?

So I'm sitting here looking out at 4 inches of snow, wishing I was outdoors climbing. At least I'm not at work today. It's a blustery day in St. Louis. Joey should also be arriving in town if he wasn't too badly delayed because of weather.

Here's an interesting article (albeit somewhat limited) on the effectiveness of some standard forms of treatment received during physical therapy. Targeted manipulation (Stretching) apparently has scientifically supported literature. Heat/cold packs, laser massage (?) is equated with voodoo. Maybe we can chalk that stuff up to the placebo effect. Still, good reading for those of us constantly contending with climbing injuries.

There're some good treatment posts from Dave Macleod (he of Scottish hard climbing) and Dave's got the degrees to support his articles. Still, I sometimes wonder how much this stuff really helps. I've consistently injured myself over the last several grades I've progressed on a rope - usually minor injuries - and I know most people have something tweaked. We're like NFL players; everyone is constantly playing partially hurt.