Jackson Falls - Oct 26, 2008

posted by Saucisson #3.

Climbers - Sophie, Yusuf, Rob, Calvin, Angie, Little Jon, Tall Tim, Woody and Jared

A large group day. First things first, congrats to Kelly and Cam, who are now engaged. We found out the news - Cam proposed by leaving the ring at the top of Group Therapy .10c, a favorite warmup. Kelly obviously said yes. We didn't get to check out the hardware, as Kelly wisely left it somewhere safe while climbing.

Other notable news: Joey Kreidel and kids are headed to town in a couple weeks. We're excited to hear that and will hopefully be outdoors together when he gets here. There's a few other trips planned to HCR and during Thanksgiving as well.

The group being as large as it was slowed us down during the day, but everyone had a great time. After warming up, we split up along various areas - Yusuf to Emperor of the North .13a, Soph to Galaxy 500 .12a/b and the rest of us to Beaver Wall. I belayed Rob on Who Needs Friends, a favorite and user friendly .12a at Beaver.

Little Jon polished off Frizzle Fry .12b, after last trying it on a trip a couple of weeks ago. Jon is a beast. The guy doesn't climb for the last 2 weeks, then comes and sends Frizzle first try after hanging the draws. If I tried to do that, I wouldn't get very far as my climbing endurance deserts me very quickly during climbing layoffs. The kid is talented; I think he would easily be a hard .13 climber if he devoted a little time to it. But sometimes I think his talent also tones down his motivation. It may come too easily to him.

The rest of us worked on various stuff - Angie sent a 5.9 and .10b that she'd worked on previously (nice job!) and also has become a proficient cleaner. Soph made good progress on Galaxy, and I think her send isn't far off. That climb is very technical and somewhat powerful; it'll be a proud send. I tried it on TR and got beat up.

I've been working on Gobble Juice .12c, and I think I've got it within striking distance. I fell at the second crux, but a few more inches and I think it would have been plausible. We'll see.

Climb on!

And another time warp... to the summer in KY

yeah yeah a bit late. Here are the promised photos from the Red in the Summer... with Le Petit Chou you now all know ( thanks to Kimchee's a.k.a. Saucisson #3's Ode!

Red hot Picts here!

Jackson Falls - The Vortex/Time Warp Oct 21, 2008

posted by Saucisson #3

Climbers - Tony, Calvin, Yusuf and Paul

I have 2 posts to make today, so I'll keep this one short. It was a good send day, with some mini-projects going down.

First off, getting to the Promised Land. Most people who've been to this area at Jackson Falls go there for the beautiful scenery, sandbagged, but wonderful routes and the sparse crowds. What they also experience is getting lost. I swear there's a time warp, gravitational flux that deposits the unwitting climber from heading towards the PL to the easternmost side of the Falls around Cheerio Bowl.

Tony and I had deciphered the way there - marked it with subtle signs and pretty much had the approach nailed to about 30 min. This time, (stupid us) we tried to take a 30 yard short cut - that's right, we turned 30 yards earlier than normal to save a little bushwacking. F---ing vortex swallowed us whole and we finally figured out where we were 1.5 hours later.

That was the most exciting part of the day - wondering if we were going to end up in our version of the Blair Witch Project and gauging how much water would be needed.

Other than that, Tony sent Congo Spray .12a (12c?) in epic style, I finished off Remove La Ropa .12b second go and Yusuf sent his first ever 5.13a: Butcher of Baghdad, second go of the day. Nice! Paul worked on some projects at Big Starr and is making good progress.

Tony and I also worked a little on Balance of Power .12b/c (.12d?) and I made some progress, but it's a ways out of reach. Hard, but beautiful. I'm thinking Tony might be able to send in a few more tries... eh? :)

Jackson Falls - Day Trip, Oct 18, 2008

Posted by Saucisson #3

Climbers: Soph (#1), Angie, Calvin

The weather's officially AMAZING (or as some would say, A-maZING!)! It's the time of year with cool, crisp conditions that making climbing so enjoyable. Slopers that feel like greased lightning in the summer now feel like gritty sandpaper. I love it.

We hiked down to Hidden Peaks, around Cheerio Bowl and Detox Mountain. Soph got us started on a 5.9 and 5.8, which served as great warm-ups. Next to us was a nice couple (Dave and Shaun) from St. Louis who climb outdoors, but not at the gym - that's why I didn't really recognize them.

From here Soph put up Groovy Marcia 5.9, a great water dugout groove that challenges the climber to really think and climb creatively. Angie loved it and led it in style!

Afterwards, we set our sights on Lasso the Vulture .11a, a slabby, pocketed route that ends in an exciting quasi-chimney. This route and given Soph trouble on a summer trip, and I had last tried it over 3 years ago. I recall thinking the route was stinking hard for .11a and I still do. But nevermind the ratings, it's a great route. All the holds are there, you just need to decipher the sequence. I put up the draws, and Soph sent it beautifully in one go. Way to go Soph!

We then moved on to Kill Bill .10a, a nicely deceptive slab route that forces some true smearing and slab technique. I let Soph and Angie work on it; instead, I opted for Cowboys and Crossdressers .12a, short, 4-bolt route that I'd struggled on 2 years ago. It's been a while since I've been down this area. Soph and Angie came close, but Kill Bill ended up being a bit hard after the previous climbing. I managed to send Cowboys second go after working out the beta. I'm glad I did, because the first beta run made me think it wasn't going to go at all.

What a great day. :)

The Fall at the Falls

Friday and Saturday at the Falls... (Tony, Calvin and Sof)

The fiery colors of the autumn are catching every ray of sunlight.  This is my favorite time of the year.  Ochres, yellows, bright reds, and the gentle breeze which brings a shower of golden fallen leaves.  Cooler temps, one of the best crags I know, great friends, let's go climb!

After setting up camp quite swiftly, we headed for Railroad.  Hey I was given the choice by these two "gentlemen".

One of my favorite place at the Falls.  Technical climbing at its best.  Tony and Calvin ended up working on this route without a name, a 12 around the corner of Butchers of Baghdad, a really cool looking line along the right side of a striking arete, while I focused ( sorry Marion, fuckussed) my energy towards Blue Velvet, an 11C which has to be one of the most classic routes at the Falls.  I had been on it with Tony before ( he sent it second go in the heart of the humid summer) and at the time I top roped it and swore I would give it a try when the rock was drier even if it had scared the living hell out of me on TR!

Well I did and sent it 3rd go.  That felt good.  Slightly overhanging face at the beginning with a long move to a succession of beautiful pockets, to a crazy high foot/mantle off a ramp before the last draw....hooooo!

The route without a name was another check mark on the sent list for the boys.

Tony tried Barbarians at the Gate, another hard 12 which looks very thin, not to say blank above the first.  he did not unlock its mysteries that day, which meant that he went back to get his very high first draw, and did the scariest downclimb ever.  Spotting him, I think I was breathing harder than him.  He is determined never to use a bail-out binner :)

Camping that night was just perfect save for the noise of way too many "neibourghs' happy to celebrate late into the night.  For us it was a nice plate of couscous, veggies and chicken (and my home grown garlic!), a little wine and chat around the fire.  The tent stayed open all night (which earned me the visit of a couple of Daddy-Long-Legs!), the air being just too perfect.

In the morning, a little warm-up at the Gallery and we headed to Big Star Wall where I had some unfinished business with a certain 12a/b Galaxy 500.  What a difference another day makes.  Saturday was much warmer, and more humid.  The route felt different.  Yes Tony was right: every day is different when you climb. We just have to take it that way.  But THIS was frustrating.  This is what obsessing about a project can do.  I was SO looking forward to climbing this route again, and Saturday it shut me down AFTER the hardest crux! GRRRR  I'll be back.

Then it was on to the Promised Land where Calvin worked on Remove La Ropa which I believe he now has in one fall, and Tony went back to the jungle on Congo Spray (down to one fall...ohh so close.  Yes I had my frustration scream in the morning, the boys had them in the afternoon.  Achh climbing is FUN and torturous!

Enjoy the picts.

24 hours and a sketchbook

Backtracking a bit on the 24 hours of HCR.  Here are a few moments recorded with my pen and sketchbook.  Sophie

Jackson Falls - Day Trip, Oct 4, 2008

Posted by Saucisson #3.

Climbers - Soph, Angie, Calvin, Lisa, Megan, Drew, Yusuf, Hanna

It's raining today (Tuesday), so I'm in a posting mood. Plus, I need to update the blog with our latest trip over the weekend. This weekend we're headed back to the Falls, and avoiding the madness of the Rocktoberfest at the Red. I'll admit, a small part of me wants to head out and join the festivities, but I also know from experience that it's going to be a major madhouse.

On to the trip report (TR) - sorry, no pics:

Saturday, we headed out for a one day trip to the Falls - where else? The weather has really been great; we've been blessed again. We decided on a slower pace with such a large group, and moseyed down by the Gallery, the Beaver Wall, Big Starr... you know, it's occurred to me that we've been climbing around Beaver/Big Starr way too much (the Gallery doesn't count since we warm up there and it's super close to everything). Next time, we must go elsewhere.

At the Beaver Wall, I put up the draws on this weirdly featured 5.9 - it's rather new and not in the book, so I don't know the name. I'll try and take a picture of it. Oddly scooped out rock that's interesting even by Jackson Falls' standards. But very fun.

Soph worked on a .12 (name?) at Big Starr - that looks really scary (slab = scary to me) and deciphered all the moves. I think she's close to linking them all. Soph is a slab-master. Yusuf and Hanna worked on it with her and Yusuf sent it second go. Nice job dude.

I tried my luck at Dance with Destiny, an interesting looking .12b that yielded most of its secrets to me until the 4th clip. At this point, I was on a right handed crimpy side-pull, with a bulge above me to a bad slopey crimp and a vertical seam beginning at shoulder height to the right. The seam flares out a bit and is no good for finger locks and is too shallow for a handjam. The only other options were tension moves or a gaston, neither of which I could setup for.

I couldn't figure it out. Slab-technique is not my forte (pronounced fort, not for-te, apparently), and it was dirty as heck, which didn't help. I had to stick-clip my way through it and came down a little peeved. I may have to try it again. Not sure of the beta though. It's definitely not been climbed recently.

We ended the day watching some dude work on Red Corvette .13a - I tried the first few bolts for fun, and I think those were actually doable. But after that, you have a nasty dyno, which I don't think looks so doable for me. I may rope Tony into trying it sometime. We've been talking about projecting a .13a (it sounds like we've been talking about having kids, or getting a new car - but no, this is climbing and we're not partners in that sense) and this one might be the right one to try.

Well, that's it. We got some great Mexican in Mt. Vernon and headed back late at night. Fun day!

An Ode to Petit Chou (Marion, a.k.a "Little Cabbage")

Posted by Saucisson #3.

In the summer of 2008, a young, slightly crazy French girl embarked upon a journey to St. Louis. Her mission, to find Saucisson #1 (her aunt), to explore America and her denizens, have fun, climb rock and maybe... find love and enduring friendships.

Here is my ode to Little Cabbage.



Oh Chou! Petit Chou! The autumn leaves rustle in the wind. Fall is in the air. The wind, silent, then whispers. If you listen, you can hear it call... 'Mon Chou' echoes in the distance.



Oh Chou! Mon Chou! Are you a gangster? A villain? A person of interest to the feds? Your cryptic smile, stoic in nature, imprinted on the mind of St. Louis.



Oh Chou! Ah Putain! Fais Chier!! What are you looking for? Do you find what you seek? The endless steps. The impermanent beach. The surging waves upon the shore.



Oh Chou! Tu Ments! Merde!! The receding ground. The endless sky. Mr. Bungle stretches before me as I dance up Left Flank. Does your ankle remember its loveliness? Oh, the wisdom of the ancient rock.



Oh Chou! Mon Chou!! Smiles like a wisp, here now, gone then. Canvas - the eyes, the soul, the love of Soph. Where are you now? Oh Chou!

Jackson Falls - Day Trip, Oct 1, 2008

Post by Saucisson #3

Climbers - Tony, Little Jon, Yusuf, Calvin

That's right, just the boys. Beautiful temps, clear fall day and primo sending temps.

We had a great day... warmed up at the Gallery and commented on how beautiful the day was. I always love Jackson Falls in the autumn. Colors start to change and the bugs are almost non-existent. I somehow forget all the summer misery (humidity, bugs and more bugs) and think it's the best place to climb in the world.

Anyways... Tony and I got started on Russia .12a, while Yusuf and Jon worked Red Corvette .13a at the Beaver Wall. I posted about Russia earlier; it's a nice consistent climb with a hard start, a good rest, then consistent moves to the top. After I climbed to hang the draws, Tony started on the route and looked great - smoothly climbing until the very last move. Picture Tony climbing a 5.8; easy, no jerky movement, breathing comfortably. Smooth. That is, until he forgot to bring his left hand up for the final slap to a hidden pocket. Tony goes for it, misses by 1 inch, then starts a slow motion slide backward while a NOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooo!!!!! erupts from his mouth.

I laughed. Hard. I know, I'm a punk. But it was funny. hee hee.

We both sent it next go.

We met up with the boys at the Beaver Wall and Little Jon and I decided on Frizzle Fry .12b (our current nemesis) while Tony and Yusuf headed back to Battle Axe for King Snake .12d.

I shouldn't have laughed at Tony. Jon put up the draws, recalling beta. On my first try, I felt GREAT. Did each move, felt good, started to think it might go (bad idea). The last move, my hand 6 inches from the final slap, I suddenly couldn't figure out my feet and fell in the same slow motion while screaming... yes. NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!1111

Butthole.

Jon and I fell at the final move a combined five times before I sent it 3rd go that day. Thank God! Jon didn't end up getting it, but promised it would go next time. I'm sure it will - he's looked so strong on it I'm surprised he hasn't sent it 5 times ago. Sorry Jon, you'll send it next time.

While we struggled, Yusuf sent King Snake second go of the day. Nice job dude! Tony worked the beta and commented that it might be a "little hard." Yikes. Bad news for me, but I'm psyched to give it a try sometime. It looks slabby, with some small pockets and hard moves in the first 2 bolts and a hard, slabby finish. I need Casey Hyer's footwork. Where are you Case?

To finish the day, we hiked over to Cro-magnon .12b - a super cool layback climb that is the first bolted route in Jackson Falls - bolted by Jeff Frizzell, a Smith Rock pioneer. The route is all tension, bad smears, lots of core and back strength required. Did I mention it's kinda scary?

Nobody sent it, but it's very interesting and I'll be back for another try soon. Yusuf tried Lost Innocence .12c (by Hidden Treasure and Lovely Arete) and it looks pretty nasty. Bad slopers all the way up - but he cleaned it for the next try on another trip.

Which is on Saturday, if I'm not mistaken... :)

Welcome to Hell.

One for the ages. Once upon a time a little Kimchee and a Super Hero (here's to you Marion!) decided to go boldly where…few had gone before. Scaling some rock down in Arkansas for 24 hours, non stop. Crazy…insane…impossible… NOOOO little Kimchee and Super Hero were in denial, it was going to be FUN, F-U-N! Team Breaking Wind Under My Sheets was going to…break wind indeed!

They left on a beautiful Friday morning, driven by sherpa Tenzing Sophie, only to arrive in the normally quiet canyon of HCR and find it under siege by a very strange breed: marathon climbers. And some of these are strange indeed: lame pants, mullets, 1970s bright color tights…a real fashion show.
Later on more came from the North. More crazy climbers, more supporters, and volunteers... Angie, Alex, Peter, Sarah, Yusuf, Hannah, Jared, Jeremiah, John, Russel, Jason, Albert, Jeremy, Keith.... and so many others.

One would think that before a 24 hours marathon of climbing, most people would call it an early night. Right. We were but the rest of the 200/300 people present did not. This was to be a party from the get-go. Great! Sleep depravation was starting now for our favorite team! Surrounded by cars coming and going, people with one to many beer trying to find their tent… The night was short lived. The sun rose on a bunch of exhausted people, us. But little kimchee and super hero were psyched. Sleeping? Oh well they would think about it later on… On Sunday would be good.

And there they went. Team Breaking winds started to tear them down. One after the other. 5.10, 5.8 warm ups and then on to a true rampage on a series of 12. These guys were on a roll.

After 7 some hours at the North Forties, it was on across the Canyon to the Roman Wall and the Far East, where Super Hero decided he wanted his spine to be tingled a bit, and it did (Spine Tingler a tough 5.12a), but as super heroes do…he held on! Kimchee cruised another 12 twice (Dirty Sanchez) and super hero followed suit.
Sherpa Sophie played with her camera and the tripod first trying to catch the ghosts of these crazy climbers with long exposures and then pointed to the sky as it was offering an extraordinary blanket of stars.
Yes the night.... it was coming and with it fatigue. By midnight Sherpa Sophie had left the team for a “nap”. See you guys in the morning. Enjoy the night. Have FUN. Right.
The camp was quieter and after making coffee for Sarah and Angie volunteering through the hard 10:00/4:00 am shift, Sherpa Sophie retired in her tent already covered with dew.
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
3:45 am. A little tap on the tent. Kimchee and Super Hero are on their way to the Forties. Great see you in a few hours. Rolling over.
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
6:00 am. Red light pointing on the horizon beyond the Roman wall. Sherpa Sophie wakes up. Time to go check on the boys.

Fresh! They looked (almost) fresh! Amazing! And they were still going strong. A couple more 11s...
9:45 am 40 routes each (including a dozen of 11s and 12s). CRAZY.
Sherpa Sophie was humbled and proud to have been a little part of that feat.
Next year...?
More photos here.