Jackson Falls - Day Trip, Oct 1, 2008

Post by Saucisson #3

Climbers - Tony, Little Jon, Yusuf, Calvin

That's right, just the boys. Beautiful temps, clear fall day and primo sending temps.

We had a great day... warmed up at the Gallery and commented on how beautiful the day was. I always love Jackson Falls in the autumn. Colors start to change and the bugs are almost non-existent. I somehow forget all the summer misery (humidity, bugs and more bugs) and think it's the best place to climb in the world.

Anyways... Tony and I got started on Russia .12a, while Yusuf and Jon worked Red Corvette .13a at the Beaver Wall. I posted about Russia earlier; it's a nice consistent climb with a hard start, a good rest, then consistent moves to the top. After I climbed to hang the draws, Tony started on the route and looked great - smoothly climbing until the very last move. Picture Tony climbing a 5.8; easy, no jerky movement, breathing comfortably. Smooth. That is, until he forgot to bring his left hand up for the final slap to a hidden pocket. Tony goes for it, misses by 1 inch, then starts a slow motion slide backward while a NOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooo!!!!! erupts from his mouth.

I laughed. Hard. I know, I'm a punk. But it was funny. hee hee.

We both sent it next go.

We met up with the boys at the Beaver Wall and Little Jon and I decided on Frizzle Fry .12b (our current nemesis) while Tony and Yusuf headed back to Battle Axe for King Snake .12d.

I shouldn't have laughed at Tony. Jon put up the draws, recalling beta. On my first try, I felt GREAT. Did each move, felt good, started to think it might go (bad idea). The last move, my hand 6 inches from the final slap, I suddenly couldn't figure out my feet and fell in the same slow motion while screaming... yes. NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!1111

Butthole.

Jon and I fell at the final move a combined five times before I sent it 3rd go that day. Thank God! Jon didn't end up getting it, but promised it would go next time. I'm sure it will - he's looked so strong on it I'm surprised he hasn't sent it 5 times ago. Sorry Jon, you'll send it next time.

While we struggled, Yusuf sent King Snake second go of the day. Nice job dude! Tony worked the beta and commented that it might be a "little hard." Yikes. Bad news for me, but I'm psyched to give it a try sometime. It looks slabby, with some small pockets and hard moves in the first 2 bolts and a hard, slabby finish. I need Casey Hyer's footwork. Where are you Case?

To finish the day, we hiked over to Cro-magnon .12b - a super cool layback climb that is the first bolted route in Jackson Falls - bolted by Jeff Frizzell, a Smith Rock pioneer. The route is all tension, bad smears, lots of core and back strength required. Did I mention it's kinda scary?

Nobody sent it, but it's very interesting and I'll be back for another try soon. Yusuf tried Lost Innocence .12c (by Hidden Treasure and Lovely Arete) and it looks pretty nasty. Bad slopers all the way up - but he cleaned it for the next try on another trip.

Which is on Saturday, if I'm not mistaken... :)