The Fall at the Falls

Friday and Saturday at the Falls... (Tony, Calvin and Sof)

The fiery colors of the autumn are catching every ray of sunlight.  This is my favorite time of the year.  Ochres, yellows, bright reds, and the gentle breeze which brings a shower of golden fallen leaves.  Cooler temps, one of the best crags I know, great friends, let's go climb!

After setting up camp quite swiftly, we headed for Railroad.  Hey I was given the choice by these two "gentlemen".

One of my favorite place at the Falls.  Technical climbing at its best.  Tony and Calvin ended up working on this route without a name, a 12 around the corner of Butchers of Baghdad, a really cool looking line along the right side of a striking arete, while I focused ( sorry Marion, fuckussed) my energy towards Blue Velvet, an 11C which has to be one of the most classic routes at the Falls.  I had been on it with Tony before ( he sent it second go in the heart of the humid summer) and at the time I top roped it and swore I would give it a try when the rock was drier even if it had scared the living hell out of me on TR!

Well I did and sent it 3rd go.  That felt good.  Slightly overhanging face at the beginning with a long move to a succession of beautiful pockets, to a crazy high foot/mantle off a ramp before the last draw....hooooo!

The route without a name was another check mark on the sent list for the boys.

Tony tried Barbarians at the Gate, another hard 12 which looks very thin, not to say blank above the first.  he did not unlock its mysteries that day, which meant that he went back to get his very high first draw, and did the scariest downclimb ever.  Spotting him, I think I was breathing harder than him.  He is determined never to use a bail-out binner :)

Camping that night was just perfect save for the noise of way too many "neibourghs' happy to celebrate late into the night.  For us it was a nice plate of couscous, veggies and chicken (and my home grown garlic!), a little wine and chat around the fire.  The tent stayed open all night (which earned me the visit of a couple of Daddy-Long-Legs!), the air being just too perfect.

In the morning, a little warm-up at the Gallery and we headed to Big Star Wall where I had some unfinished business with a certain 12a/b Galaxy 500.  What a difference another day makes.  Saturday was much warmer, and more humid.  The route felt different.  Yes Tony was right: every day is different when you climb. We just have to take it that way.  But THIS was frustrating.  This is what obsessing about a project can do.  I was SO looking forward to climbing this route again, and Saturday it shut me down AFTER the hardest crux! GRRRR  I'll be back.

Then it was on to the Promised Land where Calvin worked on Remove La Ropa which I believe he now has in one fall, and Tony went back to the jungle on Congo Spray (down to one fall...ohh so close.  Yes I had my frustration scream in the morning, the boys had them in the afternoon.  Achh climbing is FUN and torturous!

Enjoy the picts.