HP40 - Rain Rain Rain.... and more Rain

posted by Drenched Saucisson #3

Climbers - Yusuf, Alex, Hannah, Little John, Calvin, Angie and Meghan

Rain, and more rain. It sucked.

Oh, we were so excited. Thanksgiving Dinner was great, then, with careful precision and planning, we were ready to go by 10pm. We broke the trip down (8 hrs) into 2 segments, knowing it would be foolish to drive all night. Turns out, we should have.

We drove a total of 16 hrs to climb a few warmups before getting dumped on by the mother of all storms. Ok, it wasn't that bad, but it was a steady downpour. After almost 24 hours of non-stop rain, with the forecast looking bad, we bailed on Saturday afternoon and headed home, tails between our collective legs.

Sometimes, the weather just doesn't cooperate. In case you wondered, we did check the weather before heading down, and it looked like one day of rain, with two days of climbing - we thought that was reasonable. HP40 also dries out fairly quickly (or so we thought). Anyways, better luck next time.

Jackson Falls - Nov 23, 2008 FIRE at Jackson!

posted by Saucisson #3

climbers - Calvin, Little John

First, news at the Falls: after climbing all day, we climbed the rope ladder to discover that some idiot had accidentally or deliberately started a fire. 4 acres burned, but noone was hurt and no personal property was damaged (that I know of). We had a nice ranger come up and ask us if we saw anything. We got there around 9:30, and met people around 10 - 11am who didn't say anything, so I'm guessing the fire started between 11 and 3pm, when the fire department and park service were notified.

If anyone has any information related to this, please contact the forest service.

Back to regular programming:

I've been having a hard week climbing-wise. All week, I felt heavy, as if gravity had turned up an extra notch. You know that feeling, most likely. Climbing at the gym felt... hard. Same routes, or similar routes of relatively easy grade just felt pumpy. Now, this might have something to do with all the food I've been powering down, but that's not important. :)

Saturday night, I was worried about the trip falling apart, but John got back to me at the nth hour and we made plans to head out. Yusuf has elbow trouble and sat this one out.

I had an inauspicious start: at the Gallery, my fingers froze so bad I bailed on Group Therapy .10c at the 3rd bolt. That, and I felt... pumped. I came back down, unfroze my fingers and climbed it twice as a warm up. But, whew, I thought it was a harbinger of a bad day.

Turns out, it was an ok day. I sent Lost Innocence .12c second try, which was my current mini-project. I now feel justified in wishing it was slightly longer, but whatever, it's a rad climb. Glad I stuck the move.

After that, John sent Hidden Treasure .12a, second try and I one-fell it a couple times at the crux. I think on another less 'heavy' feeling day, I would have sent, but today wasn't a good day except for Lost. Case in point: I almost biffed badly on Lovely Arete .11a (sandbag dude!) and basically climbed like a turd-stuffed overweight monkey, whimpering in fear and almost dirtying my pants. But my hands were just tired; I couldn't hold on to save my life. I'll have to climb it again some other day.

Paradoxical day - I climbed 12c, but couldn't climb 11a. Go figure. But still, a good day. :)

Jackson Falls - Nov 16, 2008

posted by Saucisson #3

Climbers - Yusuf, Joe, Calvin, Tall Tim, Carine, Josh, Richard, Eric

It's getting colder. You know that time of the year, when your buddies, who used to be psyched to climb, sorta start talking about how cold it was last time, eyeball the outdoors and mutter about frozen fingers and general discomfort.

Well, to be fair, it was pretty cold at HCR for the last trip and I distinctly remember freezing my fingers so badly at the Prophecy Wall that I climbed one .10c (Learning to Fly) and promptly decided to wait until we found a more sunlight drenched wall.

How soon one forgets. :)

Last Saturday, I called, wheedled, negotiated, promised and placated, everything short of using force to get people to climb. Yusuf was psyched to climb, bless his soul, but many others dropped out quickly. So, I was pleasantly surprised at 5:45 Sunday morning when 8 people showed up at the gym, ready to head to the Falls. And we were blessed: the climbing was good, friction was decent and the weather wasn't bad. We were prepared for way worse and found the temps very nice.

This was a good trip, notably b/c Joey Kreidel was able to come. Joe's been visiting from Tucson; he moved away about 2 years ago with his wife and kids and was up visiting his family. He's been talking alot of smack about the climbing around Tucson, enough that I'm probably going to have to check it out. It was also Carine's first time at the Falls - she's climbed twice in 2 weekends now. I'm impressed.

Okay, on to the climbing. After our usual warmup at the Gallery, where I did a fun new (for me) .10b, three climbs to the right of Earthbound Misfits, we headed over to the Beaver Wall - Josh/Joe wanted to climb some 12's there. Tall Tim and Carine climbed at Mr. Jimmy, a good 5.7 slab and also the 5.8 at Beaver. I think Carine's either fearless, or talks a good game. But she's been climbing great outdoors and has now learned to lead climb, lead belay and clean anchors, all like a champ.

Yusuf worked on Dynasty .13b, a variation that starts on Emperor of the North .13a (which he sent a couple weeks ago) and angles left after two bolts. Brad Weaver sent this open project a while ago, opening it up to the public. We spied a bail biner 5 bolts up - which Yusuf managed to put one bolt further up, but that was the end of the road. Apparently the climbing becomes rather difficult after that point. I'll just have to take his word for it.

Joey and I headed to Beaver, where Joey, as is his custom, onsighted Everybody Needs Friends .12a, then did Frizzle Fry .12b in two tries. Mother Effer. I could talk about how Joey's 6' 3" and his reach just exceeds mine, but that's irrelevant. It was cool to watch him climb those routes so well. I epic'd Frizzle many times before I got the send, which tells you about our respective talent levels.

Josh made great progress on Everybody, and I think he's down to 1 hang... which hopefully means he can send soon.

We then headed over to Lovely Arete, where people hopped on Lovely .11a, Fine Nine 5.9+ and I worked Lost Innocence .12c, my current mini-project. Big burly balls, but I one-fell the damn thing 2 times after a shaky warm-up try. It felt so good too, that last try. You start on these nice 2 finger pinches and pockets, with good feet, to the top of a slopey ledge above the first bolt. You do a shaky traverse right, with somewhat blind feet, then get a rest on some flat, but surprisingly good slopers. From here, reach above the break, make a hard but decent pinch, then work your way left to the same line as the start.

Here's the first crux: you match at a small break - good 3 finger left hold, matched with not so good 3 finger right hold, high step right, left foot on marginal hold, then bump your right hand up to a 2-3 finger half-pad sidepull crimp. If you're not precise, it's hard to hold it when your weight settles on your fingers. Then, bring your left foot level with your right foot and power to a relatively bad pinch/sloper with your left hand. Pause, and stab left-handed to a 2-finger side-pocket. It's good, and if you hit that, you're ok.

After another move, the next crux is immediate - lock off right handed to a left hand side pull pinch-sloper that is much worse than the first one I described, do some footwork, and stand up on your left hand only to a nice break at full extension.

Blah, blah, I know, too much detail. But as I am wont to do when climbing something hard (for me), I memorize the details and try to visualize. It helps me on each successive try.

I'll get it next time.

Joey had to bail early to see his family for dinner, so he didn't get to try Lost, which was too bad. I was hoping to see him crush it. Yusuf climbed Green Velvet, a .12a to the left of Lovely Arete. Looks pretty cool; I want to try it.

Chilly Ranch

Ah yes it was on the chilly side indeed.  But that did not stop the Midwestern climbing posse. No way.  Three days at the Ranch, a dozen or more of us.  What we learned:

Yes indeed it is possible to climb with frozen fingers.  Yes it does involve a lot of crying/wining/making faces....

When the sun is shining on a rock face, and the wind blows in a corridor, the smart climber goes to climb on the sunny face.  No not all of us are that smart! :)

Burke can and did use words which would not meet the approval of the Queen.  

He was also caught having a conversation (animated that is) with himself.

Calvin and Tony learned it is just not human to hold your entire body weight onto a half pad crimp and try to match on it (I could have told them that and save them the suffering he he)

.....

What we learned playing Cranium:

Tony is an artist as long as his eyes are closed.

Sophie can spell backwards (yes it is extremely useful in everyday life...)

Burke knows about planes (!!!)

Drew cannot act Gone With The Wind, but has probably telepathic powers.

Woody has a killer impersonation of Marilyn up his sleeve_or should I say his dress_ (who would have known?)

.....

The feats of the WE:

Talll Tim got his head on and sent The Controversy.  Good for you my friend.

Belinda, climbing for the first time outside, and should I mention for the second time ever... finished Green Goblin on TR.  Impressive.

Carine learned to clean, and led a bunch of routes (first time outside?)...fearless!

Woody crushed every 10 or 11 he put his hands on.

Craig was THE CRUSHER on Saturday and Sunday (11s...12).

Little John impressively worked Cradle of the Deep (13) and got to the top. Tony and Calvin did work on it as well.

These three animals sent Granny Tranny (12a) at the Prophecy (yeah yeah and they made me believe they were climbing The Prophet (14a) he he and I "went" for it_I obviously have way too high of an opinion of that bunch :)_). Nevertheless Granny Tranny has a wicked scary start which was the reason why I did not have the b... to get on it. 

Tony sent a wicked 12b Pride second go, in the frigid corridor of the Land of the Lost.

And then it was the Love Slave saga.  A roof 12a at the Forty, on which all the guys took turns... and yes even I got on it!

Drew, Craig, and Burke (after many conversations with himself) got the send!!!!

Woody was oh so close, and I was a couple of falls from  sending the pump fest.  LJohn filmed the saga from up top!

So this was the WE in short.

Here are all the photos.  Footage to come!

SAVE MUIR VALLEY!!! Red River Gorge Access

The State of Kentucky is considering massive changes to route 715 that MAY SERIOUSLY impact Muir Valley - including the potential loss of up to half of the preserve. Please read, consider and act by sending in your comments. Look for communications by local climbing orgs like Friends of Muir Valley and of course the Access Fund to coordinate efforts in the near future.

Muir Valley is an expansive climbing area of 400 acres with over 300 routes (and rising) opened, maintained and owned by Rick and Liz Weber. It is extremely popular to both beginning and advanced climbers. The main road to access Muir is KY 715, which you take from Hwy 11 (from Miguels) or from the Mountain Parkway.

To email or contact the relevant authorities (quoted from Liz Weber's post on redriverclimbing.com):

What can you do to help Muir Valley if you are interested?

At this point, the easiest and most effective action would be a brief email to David Martin, Project Manager of the Study for rerouting and improving KY HW 715. His email is Charles.Martin@ky.gov. Just something saying that you are one of a large number of people who frequently visit Muir Valley Nature Preserve, bringing tourist dollars into the area, and expressing your hope that, if a project is funded, they will avoid either Alternative E or F of the 8 options under consideration, because either of those would almost surely result in the closure of Muir Valley to the public.

He can also be contacted in writing at
David Martin, P.E.
Project Manager
KYTC Division of Planning
200 Mero Street
Mail Code W5-05-01
Frankfort KY 40622

or called at 502 564-7183.

If you write instead of email, it would probably be a good idea to also copy "Director, KYTC Division of Planning" at the mailing address.

Links:

See here for a State of Kentucky Division of Planning pdf that illustrates options A through F. Note that options E or F have devastating consequences.

See here for a good explanatory post by the Narc.

Here is a post about it from Liz Weber on www.redriverclimbing.com.

This is the general State of Kentucky Division of Planning website.

Climbers of the future

OK I have to brag... My nephew Fab. and his wife Manon have the cutest kids (3 of them)  Yohan the youngest is still very young, but his two sisters ( Candice, 6 and Lisa, 3 1/2) obviously caught the bug, the climbing bug that is.  Their parents have been dealing with "addiction" for a long time!!!  Oh yeah they live 5 minutes from Font (Fontainebleau that is...the Boulder Mecca of Europe).  So today they sent me photos from one of their latest outings in the South of France, in Provence.  I could not resist and share these with you.  Naturals, they are naturals! 

Sophie

A new day

Just a little word (which has nothing to do with climbing) to all of you out there.  As the Frenchie who was not able to vote (They won't let me!!), all I can do is thank the many of you would helped turning this historical page.  A little bit like climbing, you have to try, and sometimes believe in what seems to be impossible.

Peace.

Merci.

Jackson Falls - Halloweenie Climbing Nov 2, 2008

posted by Saucisson #3

Climbers - Josh, Catherine, Calvin








Temps were in the 70's. Almost too hot for optimal climbing conditions (whatever that means), but I thought it was perfect regardless. I was hoping Yusuf would join us, but he climbed at the Falls the day before and begged off due to bleeding fingers. Been there.

In other brief climbing news, Yusuf sent Emperor of the North .13a, a long-standing project of his and also Lost Innocence .12c, something he tried a couple of times before. He's apparently pretty close on Red Corvette .13a as well. Yusuf is climbing strong. Little Jon also got Lost Innocence second go. Little effer. That climb is hard (see below).

I've also been reading up on stupid bolting wars in the Red; make that retarded, asinine, idiotic, and incomprehensible bolting wars. See here and here if you care. Climbers bashing bolts. Unbelievable.

On a lighter note, check out this link for a hilarious rendition of Thriller at my friend Casey's work, Stampin' Up. Scroll down a little to find it.

Did I mention that it's Fall and absolutely beautiful? I love this time of the year. It's hard to believe the place is so nasty in the summer. We warmed up at the Gallery before heading over to Lovely Arete. All three of us sent Fine Nine 5.9+, a nice, juicy, slabby 5.9 that keeps your attention. Probably one of the harder 5.9's you'll ever get on, but worth every moment you spend on it. Josh and Catherine then worked on Lovely Arete .11a, a striking and fun arete with bolt placements that keep you a little fearful (there's a big boulder right behind you that makes a fall scary). Fun moves though. I tried it years ago and need to get back on it.

I was saving my attention for Lost Innocence .12c. It's a wonderful, 5 bolt, bouldery face climb, which starts on small pockets, traverses right, then traverses left, with few if any places to really rest. I think it's probably 12c because of the lack of places to recharge.

From there it heads directly up, and there are two side-pull slopers that are kinda tough, and would be almost impossible in summer temps. Fortunately, the climb was in the shade and friction was fine for me. The creativity on the climb is 5 stars for sure; I really enjoyed working out the beta. I wish it was longer, but I should really only say that after I send it. :) I one-fell it at the 'crux' on my third attempt: a mini-throw to a small, 2 pad crimper on a high, right foot, but I also just received new beta that may make it easier.

We finished up on some easy climbs, pics to come. I have some great shots of Josh climbing in a ski-mask.