Jackson Falls - Halloweenie Climbing Nov 2, 2008

posted by Saucisson #3

Climbers - Josh, Catherine, Calvin








Temps were in the 70's. Almost too hot for optimal climbing conditions (whatever that means), but I thought it was perfect regardless. I was hoping Yusuf would join us, but he climbed at the Falls the day before and begged off due to bleeding fingers. Been there.

In other brief climbing news, Yusuf sent Emperor of the North .13a, a long-standing project of his and also Lost Innocence .12c, something he tried a couple of times before. He's apparently pretty close on Red Corvette .13a as well. Yusuf is climbing strong. Little Jon also got Lost Innocence second go. Little effer. That climb is hard (see below).

I've also been reading up on stupid bolting wars in the Red; make that retarded, asinine, idiotic, and incomprehensible bolting wars. See here and here if you care. Climbers bashing bolts. Unbelievable.

On a lighter note, check out this link for a hilarious rendition of Thriller at my friend Casey's work, Stampin' Up. Scroll down a little to find it.

Did I mention that it's Fall and absolutely beautiful? I love this time of the year. It's hard to believe the place is so nasty in the summer. We warmed up at the Gallery before heading over to Lovely Arete. All three of us sent Fine Nine 5.9+, a nice, juicy, slabby 5.9 that keeps your attention. Probably one of the harder 5.9's you'll ever get on, but worth every moment you spend on it. Josh and Catherine then worked on Lovely Arete .11a, a striking and fun arete with bolt placements that keep you a little fearful (there's a big boulder right behind you that makes a fall scary). Fun moves though. I tried it years ago and need to get back on it.

I was saving my attention for Lost Innocence .12c. It's a wonderful, 5 bolt, bouldery face climb, which starts on small pockets, traverses right, then traverses left, with few if any places to really rest. I think it's probably 12c because of the lack of places to recharge.

From there it heads directly up, and there are two side-pull slopers that are kinda tough, and would be almost impossible in summer temps. Fortunately, the climb was in the shade and friction was fine for me. The creativity on the climb is 5 stars for sure; I really enjoyed working out the beta. I wish it was longer, but I should really only say that after I send it. :) I one-fell it at the 'crux' on my third attempt: a mini-throw to a small, 2 pad crimper on a high, right foot, but I also just received new beta that may make it easier.

We finished up on some easy climbs, pics to come. I have some great shots of Josh climbing in a ski-mask.