FA ethics - FRFM and Sharma

Intriguing discussion about FRFM, Sharma's current project in Spain. You've probably seen it in Big UP (Progression, King Lines). Sharma's apparently close. Nalle Hukkataival, a Finnish powerhouse boulderer, apparently traveled to Spain specifically to try the project and touched off an interweb firestorm dicussion when he mentioned that he basically, "wasn't allowed to try it."

See Nalle's post here (read the comments). Sharma actually wrote a long explanation here. Finally, Nalle has also responded on Bjornpohl's site.

I enjoyed both perspectives. Personally, I think the bolter deserves some time to try for the FA, but the gray area is "within reason." How long exactly the bolter/setter/opener/cleaner is allowed to try for the FA is a good question. Shades of Girl Talk in CO with Dave Graham and of course many minor disputes at local crags. I do think Nalle has a valid point that if Sharma's asking for more time but is letting a couple buddies try it with him, how is Nalle not supposed to feel strangely excluded? Perhaps Sharma felt Nalle had a legit chance of sending it and not Andrada and Graham? Or maybe he didn't mind an old buddy snagging it, which is different from allowing another top climber to snag the glory. Sharma made good points too.

By the way, the climbing media seems to be pumping up some sort of rivalry/bad blood situation, but I don't think that's the case. Everyone chill!