Monday, March 8, 2010

Jackson Falls - Feb 28, 2010

Climbers - Yusuf, Dane, Jen and Calvin
Weather - sunny and crisp

Team Saucisson is back outside! Rumor has it that Soph, Tony and some friends made it outside on Sat, so another TR should be up soon.

Last weekend on Feb 28, Yusuf, Dane, Jen and I were out at the Falls and had a great time. We climbed at Spleef, getting on some of the 5.9's and .10a moderates there (all slab, more slab) and wandered over to Big Starr Wall. On the way, Dane and Jen climbed Greg's Chicken Shack (name?) 5.6 or 5.7 slab. Yusuf put up Mary's Cookie's, 5.11d, which is the right-most climb at Big Starr, I think. MC is a fun climb, but very cruxy. It'd shut me down a couple years ago as I tried to thug my way past the crux and fell numerous times.

This time I benefited from Yusuf's beta (the slab-master), and sent it second go. MC has a heady second clip, which requires easier moves but blowing it would most certainly result in a deck from about 25 feet. Afterwards, you negotiate a nice couple of cruxes before doing a fun, but unsteady hand-foot match at the end and standing up without touching the wall. You don't really have to do that, but you do when the last 20+ feet are wet. Afterwards, Dane worked it on TR, Yusuf climbed Galaxy 5000 .12a/b and we headed to Lovely Tower. Yusuf and I climbed Fine Nine, and Dane worked Hidden Treasure, .12a, taking some nice whippers. Awesome. I screwed up Lovely Arete (again), .11a. I swear, climbing that thing when you're tired really sucks. Yusuf says it's one of the best, if not the best .11 in the Falls, but I have to disagree. :) And we called it a lovely day after it got dark.

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