Jackson Falls - Day Trip, March 20, 2010

From Jackson Falls 3-20-10

Climbers - Craig, Calvin, Sophie, Meghan, Yoli & Christian
Weather - Cool and partly sunny

"It's the Tiger! The Tiger got me!"
"Why'd you fall? I thought you might flash it."
"Tiger Claw! My right arm was gone, the Tiger took it. I couldn't feel my hand."

--snippets of conversation after Christian came down from Detox Mtn and here's a pic of what prompted the conversation:

From Jackson Falls 3-20-10

Beautiful day of climbing. Congrats are due for Meg for flashing Cheerio Bowl, .10a at Pricker Peak. Craig got Detox Mountain, .12a second go and almost sent Cowboys and Crossdressers .12a five different times. Boy's got some endurance!

Craig and I hopped down Friday night and camped. Very enjoyable to get back outdoors. The only part marring our experience was finally getting past some stoned guy walking in the middle of the freeway by I-64 where it splits from I-55/70; he was forcing cars to go 5 mph around him.

Soph and Meg arrived early the next morning and Yoli and Christian had also arrived the night before (I missed seeing them though). We headed down to the Monument and started climbing from left to right Stubborn Swede 5.8, Unclaimed 5.9 (tricky) and finally Lothlorien .10a (very tricky but really cool). Props to Soph for getting on Lothlorien and sending it on TR. There are a couple of heady moves and she solved them all quickly. Soph on Lothlorien .10a:

From Jackson Falls 3-20-10

Afterwards, we alternated on Cheerio Bowl, classic .10a, then headed over to Detox, with Craig putting the draws on that. To the right is The Farmer, .12a and I put the draws on that. TF has a fun layback flake for about 4 bolts, then a nice rest before a crimpy and powerful crux (the way I did it). Craig honed beta and sent Detox second go, and I was able to manage an ugly send second go on TF. Later I found out that Yoli did a nice job finding new beta making it sound easier (or I think she's just a really good climber) and Christian almost flashed it - skipping the last bolt and falling at the anchors. Yoli on Unclaimed 5.9:

From Jackson Falls 3-20-10

Christian is probably twice as big as Yoli, so his whipper, which I didn't see, took him below the first bolt. Big ride!

Meg, Yoli and Soph and took turns on Detox, while Yoli also tried The Farmer. That's when Craig and I headed over to Cowboys. Meg and Soph eventually joined and worked Southern Inquisition, .10b. SI is another climb I tried 4-5 years ago with Thom and didn't send, so it was nice to get back on it at the end of the day and get to enjoy each sequence - overhang to bulge to an enjoyable slab move or three. Very nice.

It was getting late, so Yoli, Christian, Meg and Soph all headed back, while Craig and I headed over to Lovely Tower to hit my nemesis, Lovely Arete, .11a. I watched Dave (last name?), an older guy just smoke it on TR, and got some interesting beta. Beta or not, I think there's an unavoidable thuggy move in the middle. This time I took a deep breath, committed, and got the darn send. Craig worked it a couple times and we called it a day.

Here are some extra pics.