Jackson Falls - March 7, 2010

Climbers - Yusuf, Dane, Meg, Angie & Calvin
Weather - overcast/sunny, schizophrenic but good

Update - Here are some pics.

The weather couldn't decide on overcast, sprinkles or outright sun, but the warmth more than made up for it.

In other news, a shout-out to Dane for sending Hidden Treasure, his first outdoor .12a send on a quick Friday trip to the Falls with Yusuf. Nice job!!

We warmed up at Spleef again, this time doing a few routes and catching up with some folks there from the gym as well as the Chancellors. It was a busy day at the Falls. Meg got on Master Marley, .10a, and sent it cleanly on lead. Congrats to Meg on her first clean, outdoor send, and a .10a at that!

From Jackson Falls 3-7-10

We then headed over to BattleAxe Tower and got on The Sophomore, 5.9, and met a nice couple from Urbana, IL, Kevin and his gf (didn't catch her name). They are graduating in May and are going to guide in WVA - look for them in Fayetteville.

Meanwhile, Yusuf hopped on this hard looking thing to the right of Void Warrior (.11d?), which probably goes at solid .12. It's relatively newly bolted and not in the book. The crux move involves a nice 3 finger pocket sidepull, setting your feet and launching to a right-handed pocket. I captured some pics and will post those later. From there, you definitely have some more work to do for a few more bolts. Dane also worked on it, but no sends.

From Jackson Falls 3-7-10

I put the draws up on The Reckoning, .11d, and although it felt easier than the time I tried it a couple of years ago, it still felt hard. Rumor has it that it was rated .12a until Schmick (FA) climbed it in his tennies and declared that no .12a could be .12a if he climbed it in his tennies. Bastard. :)

I wanted to rest, so we walked over to Beaver Wall, with Meg and Ang hoping to climb the 5.8 to the left of Flinging Hog and then FH, .11a. Alas, both were taken. I'd like to mention that the 5.8 was taken by a guy who cut in front of us and then said he had 3 friends waiting to climb it. This guy then waiting 25 effing minutes before his friends showed up. Ridiculous, rude and completely asinine! Meg & Ang ended up on Chimichanga, 5.8, but apparently it's not that enjoyable.

We headed back over to The Reckoning, which I sent with some effort (blowing air like a lathered horse being run to death) and offered Dane a belay. Dane asked for a little beta, then promptly flashed the route! Hiked the damn thing looking like he was strolling through the park. Congrats dude, major accomplishment! And just after climbing his first outdoor .12a too! I'm thinking Dane has lots of upwards potential. :)

Meg/Yusuf/Dane had to head out early around 2:30pm, so Ang and I walked back to the Gallery after packing up and got on Earthbound Misfits, .10a. Angie decided to put the draws up, then came down, rested a bit, and fired it next go. Nice job!! Ang displayed a strong lead head, resting above bolts, pulling the crux, and shaking out at the last bolt for several minutes trying to remember beta before successfully topping out. Very impressive.

I finished out the day climbing EM and Psychotherapy a couple times to work some pump, then we headed home. Super fun day.